I was running a 14 tooth pinion this last weekend on my 48.3, it meshes up to the 44 spur just fine. I did this partly to keep my speed down with a new chassis and also was not sure what kind of top speed it would have and by the end of the day I could have used a tooth or two for the sweeper and the straight. I ordered a 16 & and a 17 pinion to try out this weekend.

I don't know if this is of any interest to anyone here but the Losi center diff is a direct fit for this truggy. You just swap the bearings out to 8x16x5. Available spurs include 32, 35, 40, 43, 44T. Anything 45T and larger won't fit because of the top plate. However, if you have the carbon fiber open hole top plate or use spacers you may be able to fit larger.

Losi HD Differential Case with metal inserts
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8s7bqihp.jpg

Tekno on left, Losi on right (the Losi is a little bit shorter, bearings are already swapped)
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...psvenhnyt6.jpg

The Losi diff has a little bit of side to side movement in this picture but once everything is tightened down there is no movement at all
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1j9awlql.jpg

It fits perfect, has plenty of clearance and no rubbing, I'm using the 43T
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...pszdxw89tw.jpg



And yes I've already tested it out and it works good

+ YouTube Video

Great find man, helps me out heaps as I have a fair stock of Losi/Mugen diffs now.
Cheers.

Hey guys, I have out of the box set up and under power in corners and down the straights the rear end of the Truggy wants to slide out. It has improved with changing from 20/20/10 to 10/10/5 and with the 1.0 toe plate but it is still sliding out under power.
I have the .3 buggy and Sct and they don't do this on the same track. I'm running a Castle 2200kv combo with 16 pinion.
By thoughts where if the Buggy and Sct where railing on 5/5/5 then maybe the Truggy would act similar with a more even diff oil change ??

Txs for any advice, very new to the racing side of things :-)

What are the locations of your rear hinge pin blocks (the "C" and "D" blocks)? What shock and camber link locations are on the back? What springs/pistons/oil are you running all the way around?

That'll give me an idea of some place to look to help you.

Hi,
I made the same experience. I changed the ackermann positions from the rear to the front holes which made the steering less aggressive.
Then I got some thinner 500 oil into the rear shocks and played a bit with the rear shock positions.
Front oil I changed to 600 instead of 650. As its getting cold here I will change to some thinner oil (bumpy track).
Much better and quite stable, even on dusty tracks. Still, some fine tuning will be nessecary.
regards
florian

Hey, Im using this exact set up except yellow springs all round, 10/10/5 Diffs and 1.0 Toe in plate.

Txs in advance

Thank you man, Ill definitely try the changes you have suggested.

As a general note, all truggies will generally slide out easily when you pull trigger because of the amount of power generally being run in them. That being said, we can make that more controllable or less common with setup.

So, going from green to yellow springs like you did will make the car more twitchy from side to side on loose and rough as it won't wait to shift weight in a roll as much, which will also make it bounce more on a rut and suddenly do something like spin out, bounce, or catch the rut and start rolling over. That being said, here are a couple other things to try, besides dropping your spring rate back down (though I would suggest trying green springs on just the rear).

Normally I would say to allow for more squat, but you have that maxed out according to the setup sheet.

2 other fairly easy changes to try are to add more rear toe in on the rear and to reduce the rear or increase the front anti-sway bar.

If possible, consider letting the front wheels droop more, or setting the front ride height 1mm higher, or the rear 1mm lower.

You MAY like a shorter wheelbase. This typically makes it easier to mash throttle without the back coming free, but also makes the car rotate more quickly. If you find yourself on medium throttle and the vehicle washing out, you may not like the shorter wheelbase. If you find things ok, but you only wash out or have the back kick around when you mash the throttle, then a shorter wheelbase may help. If you do this, 1mm of change with the washers holding the rear hub makes quite a difference.

Lastly, this is more of a driver style thing, but it sounds like you may find things to work better with the rear camber link being shorter. Try it both short and long to see which way you like it. Shorter will tend to lock down more when you pull trigger, but wash out more quickly while braking or in a sweeper. Longer will tend to hold better while braking or in a sweeper, giving more overall traction in those areas, but will continue to let the rear be a little loose when you pull trigger, but in a very predictable way.

Oh, and it looks like you have the minimum amount of downforce on your rear wing. You can also try swapping that to maximum and it'll load the rear down more at speed on the straight to help it stay more stable once you have some speed.

Just remember to try one change at a time so you see what you like and what you don't until you get to where you want it to be.

Cant thank you enough mate, this is all the info ill ever need on the subject.

Thanks heaps

hi there,

made some changes, the truggy handles much better now: 400 oil in the rear, 500 in the front, 2.3 sway bar in the rear.
Currently I am running my back up esc made by toro (orange 150a esc). In the beginning, it did not work well, but settings are ok now, so I am quite happy with it.

Further I got myself an new external ubec by hobbyking, and it is fantastic. Buch better then the old ubec, delivers 5-7 amps at 6v, my olde Savöx is happy.

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/yh6naas6.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/4sbmubu3.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/d6by9pu6.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/49wkuiib.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/7yrfiqze.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/nzy832tj.jpg
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/1...p/fnvgexj9.jpg
The batteries are a tight fit, I like these rhino 20c (!) quite a lot, sufficient c-rate, light, and flat, good for a low cog. Most of my batts have these dimensions.
That Motor is such a powerhouse, huge torque for that size and for it's 2000kv (TP3640xl 2000kv)

Tekno RC is now accepting driver sponsorship applications for 2016 with driver resume. Please send an e-mail to your Regional Team Manager (as shown in the link below) with the title "2016 Tekno Sponsorship Application" if you would like to be a part of the team. I am in no position of power at all, just spreading the word. Good luck!
http://www.teknorc.com/rtm-territories/

Hey everyone I need a little help with some diagnosis. My rear Diff Grinds when I accelerate up jumps and when landing and accelerating. I have already replaced the ring gear, pinion and shims. within 2 races it was doing it again. Everything was tight and I cant figure it out. Only thing left is to replace the whole rear end.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

If it happened that soon after replacing the ring and pinion then there's definitely something else at fault. I would replace the rear bulkhead and all 4 bearings when you put in the new ring and pinion. And when you rebuild it start with the shims on the ring side, if it still feels too loose (it shouldn't) you can always add a shim under the pinion gear to tighten it further.

Lastly, make sure you're using the correct ring and pinion combo, TKR5403 and TKR5405.