Originally Posted by jay13111 (Post 13184506)

Just finished the build.are you guys running all 3 body braces?

Originally Posted by munrath (Post 13184559)

Yes you must run all 3 braces.

Originally Posted by mamdot91 (Post 13185506)

for the aluminium tekno servo horn, what size wrench do we need? 1.5mm?

Originally Posted by turtletrax (Post 13185386)

What do you racers consider the right amount of torque for steering? I have a couple savox 1267 and ae ds 1015 that I'm not using, would they be ok or do I need something in the 300's? I think the 1267 is 277 @7.4. I think I'm going to run a hobbywing, now how do I get the extra voltage to the servo?

Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77 (Post 13185591)

Yes sir.

Originally Posted by turtletrax (Post 13185386)

What do you racers consider the right amount of torque for steering? I have a couple savox 1267 and ae ds 1015 that I'm not using, would they be ok or do I need something in the 300's? I think the 1267 is 277 @7.4. I think I'm going to run a hobbywing, now how do I get the extra voltage to the servo?

Originally Posted by mamdot91 (Post 13185878)

So I was going over the manual today (In advance, due to excitement, lol) and I have a few things id like to ask/gain a bit more knowledge on from people who have already built it:

1) Page 5 - steps on both the gearboxes basically - It says to have a perfect mesh alternate between having both shims on one side, if not good then one shim on each side, if still not good both shims on opposite side. So as a general consensus how has everyone been shimming the diffs in the gearboxes? One on either side will suffice? Or does shimming differ from each individual kit? My kit required 1 shim on each side for the front and both on the ring gear side for the rear, this will depend on how it feels when you build it.

2) Page 8 - The note on reaming - Is that really necessary? Has anyone here done that? I did not have to ream the arms, I only had binding when the toe block bushings were not pressed in all the way. I used a C-clamp to press the bushings in all the way. After that, the suspension arms moved free.

3) Page 20 - Shock length also know as droop - is this 120mm measurement from top of shock cap to bottom eye? Also I have read people discussing droop on this thread recently and how they adjust it etc. So HOW really do I adjust droop/shock length? By the shock adjustment nut? Whats this people talking about "you can only adjust from bottom" and "I use rc8t droop screw etc so I can adjust differently." I dont get what people are talking about here. Someone explain please? Droop is basically how far past the bottom of the chassis the arms can extend. The droop screws limit this by stopping against the chassis before the shocks reach full extension. At minimum, the droop screws should be adjusted so they stop the arms at full extension of the shocks. This prevents the possibility of the shock end being pulled off the shaft. The kit droop screws are installed in the bottom of the arm and you would have to flip the truck over an compress the suspension to unscrew the droop screw to adjust droop. The RC8T screws have an additional hole in the top for a hex driver so you can turn the screw without flipping the truck over. I'm sure someone else can explain the tuning benefits of droop.

I'm sure you can already tell but just to make it clear this will be my first time building a kit so please don't get annoyed by my rookie questions.

The rest of the manual seemed pretty straight forward. I get more excited to build it every day.

Originally Posted by turtletrax (Post 13186837)

The only thing I have left to get is a motor. Whats everyone prefer? I have only ever run tekin stuff. How does the larger truggy motor fit? I would like a truggy specific one if possible but am open to try a different brand. I dont know who all makes a longer can version other than tekin.?