TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#62
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
1. everything in the package is used. No mods necessary.
2. use the plastic 45t spur that comes in the conversion.
3. you get a 15 and a 16 tooth. generally the 15 is good in most places.
4. get the orange weller iron. cheap and HOT. i've always used it. here's a link - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQTd4AodhlcApA
5. you should have enough wire to get it all done with what they send, but if you need more, buy 12 gauge.
Good luck!
2. use the plastic 45t spur that comes in the conversion.
3. you get a 15 and a 16 tooth. generally the 15 is good in most places.
4. get the orange weller iron. cheap and HOT. i've always used it. here's a link - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQTd4AodhlcApA
5. you should have enough wire to get it all done with what they send, but if you need more, buy 12 gauge.
Good luck!
Also no need for the motor spacer at the back it will hit your motor and jack it out of alignment when the chassis flexes. I'm building mine as we speak.
#63
For some motors the spacer fits, but not all.
#64
#66
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
#67
1. everything in the package is used. No mods necessary.
2. use the plastic 45t spur that comes in the conversion.
3. you get a 15 and a 16 tooth. generally the 15 is good in most places.
4. get the orange weller iron. cheap and HOT. i've always used it. here's a link - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQTd4AodhlcApA
5. you should have enough wire to get it all done with what they send, but if you need more, buy 12 gauge.
Good luck!
2. use the plastic 45t spur that comes in the conversion.
3. you get a 15 and a 16 tooth. generally the 15 is good in most places.
4. get the orange weller iron. cheap and HOT. i've always used it. here's a link - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQTd4AodhlcApA
5. you should have enough wire to get it all done with what they send, but if you need more, buy 12 gauge.
Good luck!
Any other Info would be appreciated. Wheelman your buggy look Great.
#69
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 408
From: NW Indiana
I use the Kyosho gel in my scte. It is about 1/4 in thick and gives the speedo a little cushion. It is pricey at 14 bucks for a package but it is reusable if you get it off clean. Just clean it with alcohol and it gets sticky again. I have seen alot of people use reg servo tape and stick it to the side of the speedo.
#70
The grey 3M tape with red plastic on it is the best IMO. You can get it at Kmart, Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc... I just double sided taped my switch to the side of my RX8. I have always done this it works great. Just clean the surfaces where the tape is going before it is applied and it will stick forever.
#71
The grey 3M tape with red plastic on it is the best IMO. You can get it at Kmart, Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc... I just double sided taped my switch to the side of my RX8. I have always done this it works great. Just clean the surfaces where the tape is going before it is applied and it will stick forever.
#72
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
I need to fit it all when it comes.( My RX8) ( With this new method!)
I used to just make 2 holes in side of batt tray and zip tie the switch in because I beat the crap out of my Buggy on the Large outdoor tracks I run on!
OR use shoe goo on the switch stays forever!
Last edited by XXXDad; 05-12-2013 at 11:13 AM.
#73
I am using the 3m tape but also take the extra time to drill a couple of holes through the battery tray. I never had an esc come loose with a screw or two holding it to the tray. It pays to take some extra time and route the wires so that they won't get pinched. I add heat shrink anywhere it might rub through the insulation. The Orion switch fits neatly in the little area offset from the main battery area.
#74
The trick is to run a big zip tie around the speedo and the speedo tray. That will keep it stuck when the chassis and everything else flexes.
#75
hi guys im just after your opinion here...
i have a 8ight E 2.0 which is my first buggy and i am looking to upgrade. i am leaning towards the 3.0 as i am a losi fan and have a buttload of spares that can be used on the 3.0
some of you seem concerned about the losi being over priced and also using the old conversion kit.
it is obvious that losi are a more expensive kit anyway so is it seems very unlikely that the price is going to drop or when they bring out the E kit it will be that much cheaper than buying one now and converting?
also when they bring out the E version would it really look,handle or even use any different parts than the nitro kit apart from the conversion? they havent done so in the past so why would they change now?
any reply would be great as i am no expert when it comes to the technical side of things and trying to gather a bit of information before i spend the money.
cheers, peter
i have a 8ight E 2.0 which is my first buggy and i am looking to upgrade. i am leaning towards the 3.0 as i am a losi fan and have a buttload of spares that can be used on the 3.0
some of you seem concerned about the losi being over priced and also using the old conversion kit.
it is obvious that losi are a more expensive kit anyway so is it seems very unlikely that the price is going to drop or when they bring out the E kit it will be that much cheaper than buying one now and converting?
also when they bring out the E version would it really look,handle or even use any different parts than the nitro kit apart from the conversion? they havent done so in the past so why would they change now?
any reply would be great as i am no expert when it comes to the technical side of things and trying to gather a bit of information before i spend the money.
cheers, peter



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