slick78

iTrader: (3)

for setup check these out and just match up your local track conditions

you have to google petitrc losi setup sheets ( I cant post link yet)

On the battery mod it is in this thread that how I did mine and its the single best mod I've done to mine to date! so much more steering

slick78

iTrader: (3)

The cab foward 3.0 body clears the battery foward mod so Ive seen just havent needed a new body yet so I trimmed the vent out of mine and it clears fine

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I had to pick up a 5-40 tap to use for the stock screws, used in the battery mod. I will know more about this mod after next weeks race.

slick78

iTrader: (3)

I did the same!

Perrydog

iTrader: (16)

Is anyone using any kind of plate to mount esc to chassis? I know you can just tape to chassis plate but would be much faster to just remove a couple of screws when you get ready to clean.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

I mounted my RX-8 to a Tekno V4 ESC tray. I drilled and countersunk holes in the chassis to mount the tray and shortened
the legs of the tray so the ESC wouldn't interfere with the body. Eliminating body interference is why the ESC is mounted
at an angle. I mounted the ESC to the tray using screws into the RX-8 with old shock o-rings to cushion the ESC.
This is probably overkill, but I like it.

slick78

iTrader: (3)

I just made a alum plate to fit behind the battery tray and drilled and tapped the chassis so you have a flat surface to mount it agter doing the battery foward mod. I put high density foam between the plate and chassis to absorb vibrations

Capelracer

iTrader: (3)

Anyone knoe where I can find the diff ratio?? (did the forum search & came up with 2 different numbers )

vinayaksharma85

The use of front and rear center dog bones eliminate the friction of a CV coupler. The front center dog bone will significantly reduce the binding that would occur as a front center CV coupler wore out.
Front and Rear Center Dogbones
5mm Turnbuckles

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

In the SCTE, absolutely. (This is the 8ight-E thread )

wydopen

iTrader: (6)

Been browsing this thread in anticipation of getting my new 3.0..

Been running a 2.0 e conversion that I have pretty dialed but it's just getting too worn out...

What's the general consensus on the battery location?? Stock location with some weight in the front or just move it forward?? I actually have an extra chassis plate and battery tray so I can have both setups but I'd like an idea of what most people are running...there is a bunch of talk about people planning on doing it in here but it would be helpful to know what people settled on

I finally got my 2.0 steering how I like..don't want to go backwards with the new car...

Thanks

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

Internal ratio is 3.23 I believe....

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

I suggest driving the car in stock set up, first, see how you like it. While it will be different, you may really like the differences in platforms.

As far as battery FWD mod.... I personally prefer the battery FWD, but race (very closely)/w a guy who prefers the battery in std location. He still has plenty of steering, and with take the inside line on anyone who leaves it open... This is why I say try stock set up, then try the FWD mod....

Good luck!

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I have done the battery forward, and for some reason did my best with the stock location, but that was running a 3S system in it. I may go back to 3S for indoor racing. I guess I need to try the stock setting with the 4S system and see what it does. I would like to try a Tekin T8I 2750 on 3S indoors to see how that would work!!!

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I went ahead and built a second 3.0 E with a 3S system with a 2500 motor just to see what it would do. I got the motor as part of a trade. The car handles great and has battery forward on it. For some reason the left front arm sticks, and I cannot figure it out. It will not fully extend.