TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#3931
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (10)
this one?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
it claims to be the same length as my 5600mah, 164mm.
Thank you for the measurements!
I am trying to get past the 20-30C discharge, it's heating up my motor like a mother f'er. I'm guessing i get to spend more money to get the 60-120C that fits.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
it claims to be the same length as my 5600mah, 164mm.
Thank you for the measurements!
I am trying to get past the 20-30C discharge, it's heating up my motor like a mother f'er. I'm guessing i get to spend more money to get the 60-120C that fits.
#3932
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
As near as I can tell (my calipers only go to 153mm) the dimensions for the 3.0 E buggy tray are 155mm length, 52.8mm width. I know what you mean about those batteries. They fit good in my converted TLR truggy though. The 5000mah Turnigy will fit and works pretty well in the 3.0 ebuggy.
I'm really considering getting a saddle pack setup for the 3.0 but again $$$.
#3933
Tech Rookie
I know this has been asked, but I don't recall seeing a definitive answer.
I just picked up the 8ight 3.0 kit from amain, along with the e-kit.
Sadly the body doesn't fit.
What are my options at this point? I thought of just saying screw it and buying either a nitro engine and just building it up as a nitro buggy, or, buying the appropriate e-chassis and whatever e-specific parts I need to make that work.
Any advice, and or recommendations on what to do? I bought the 3.0 trying to save some money but I kinda wish I would've just bought the e-4.0 instead.
Oh well.
Thanks in advance.
I just picked up the 8ight 3.0 kit from amain, along with the e-kit.
Sadly the body doesn't fit.
What are my options at this point? I thought of just saying screw it and buying either a nitro engine and just building it up as a nitro buggy, or, buying the appropriate e-chassis and whatever e-specific parts I need to make that work.
Any advice, and or recommendations on what to do? I bought the 3.0 trying to save some money but I kinda wish I would've just bought the e-4.0 instead.
Oh well.
Thanks in advance.
#3934
Uh Whut?
#3935
Tech Rookie
Heh, sorry. Lost my train of thought as I typed that out.
I meant to ask which bodies fit the 8ight 3.0 with the electronic conversion.
The nitro body hits the solder tabs for the motor, sits right on top of the esc, and my batteries hold it about 1/2" too high.
I thought I read that an e-2.0 body would fit, but it wasn't confirmed.
Then I started rambling about other options, such as just going nitro with it or purchasing the appropriate e-3.0 parts so that the e-3.0 body that I purchased will fit.
Make sense this time?
I meant to ask which bodies fit the 8ight 3.0 with the electronic conversion.
The nitro body hits the solder tabs for the motor, sits right on top of the esc, and my batteries hold it about 1/2" too high.
I thought I read that an e-2.0 body would fit, but it wasn't confirmed.
Then I started rambling about other options, such as just going nitro with it or purchasing the appropriate e-3.0 parts so that the e-3.0 body that I purchased will fit.
Make sense this time?
#3936
Tech Rookie
I ended up saying screw it.
Scoured the exploded diagrams of both the 8ight 3.0 and 8ight E 3.0.
Ordered the parts that looked like what I'd need to basically convert my 8 to an 8-E.
Will report back with a few pics of how it works out. I initially bought the 8 3.0 to save some money vs the new 4.0.
I spent, 300 on the kit and 80 on the E-conv. I spent another 80 on the parts I think I need to finish the conversion.
So I figure I'm 460 into it. Not bad, still saved money I guess.
Scoured the exploded diagrams of both the 8ight 3.0 and 8ight E 3.0.
Ordered the parts that looked like what I'd need to basically convert my 8 to an 8-E.
Will report back with a few pics of how it works out. I initially bought the 8 3.0 to save some money vs the new 4.0.
I spent, 300 on the kit and 80 on the E-conv. I spent another 80 on the parts I think I need to finish the conversion.
So I figure I'm 460 into it. Not bad, still saved money I guess.
#3937
#3938
Tech Regular
A couple months ago I bought a 3.0e roller for $200. Is the 4.0e that big of an unproven and if so what are the biggest benefits of the 4.0 over the 3.0.
In a vacuuming if I were to race my clone with the same exact setup same driving skill level etc. would the 4.0e win in a vacuum?
They reason I'm asking is because I came from a AE 8.2e and this 3.0 is much better IMO where If it was possible to race my clone again in a vacuum lol I have no doubt my 3.0e would beat my 8.2e with same setup electronics and everything.
Or should I just keep racing my 3.0e for a couple more years or until the 5.0e(or whatever they'll call it) comes out then buy that brand new.
P.S- besides doing the battery forward mod... What aftermarket items should I get? Are there better shocks? Is it worth it to get carbon fiber shock towers, a certain kind of wing etc. I have money to spend but don't feel like wasting it either..
Any advice is appreciated
In a vacuuming if I were to race my clone with the same exact setup same driving skill level etc. would the 4.0e win in a vacuum?
They reason I'm asking is because I came from a AE 8.2e and this 3.0 is much better IMO where If it was possible to race my clone again in a vacuum lol I have no doubt my 3.0e would beat my 8.2e with same setup electronics and everything.
Or should I just keep racing my 3.0e for a couple more years or until the 5.0e(or whatever they'll call it) comes out then buy that brand new.
P.S- besides doing the battery forward mod... What aftermarket items should I get? Are there better shocks? Is it worth it to get carbon fiber shock towers, a certain kind of wing etc. I have money to spend but don't feel like wasting it either..
Any advice is appreciated
Last edited by Slashn77; 05-08-2016 at 06:56 PM.
#3939
Did TLR ever make aluminum rear hubs for this car? Part number?
#3940
I don't think there is much difference at all performance-wise, comparing a 3.0 with battery mod and a 4.0 Personally, I think the 4.0 is a waste of money. Many racers aren't running the boots because they bind and my spindles bound real bad so I used the 3.0 ones. I should have just got the 4.0 chassis, body and center diff plates really. Not really knocking the 4.0, just think the 3.0 was good, REAL good!
#3941
Tech Regular
I don't think there is much difference at all performance-wise, comparing a 3.0 with battery mod and a 4.0 Personally, I think the 4.0 is a waste of money. Many racers aren't running the boots because they bind and my spindles bound real bad so I used the 3.0 ones. I should have just got the 4.0 chassis, body and center diff plates really. Not really knocking the 4.0, just think the 3.0 was good, REAL good!
#3943
Tech Initiate
Question for you guys, What are you running for tires on an outdoor track? Our track is a little dusty during the day and will start to get a more wet one as the night goes on. Sometimes they even wet the track down.
#3945
Tech Regular
At my medium grip dusty dirt I run the aka Impacts. When they water it the impacts have awesome grip but when it gets dried up from the sun I am thinking about getting the other aka's with bigger spikes for more grip when the dirt dries I between watering