ta_man

iTrader: (168)

4S is out of control when using a motor inappropriate for 4S. Like that 2650. Many years of experience among many many people has led to the observation that a peak RPM of about 30,000 or so (Motor KV times peak pack voltage) is about right for electric 1/8th scales.

That 2650 on 4S is about 42,000. so yeah, out of control.

Personally, I just switched from a 2100KV motor and 4S to a 1400KV motor and 6S. That's a bit high, at 35,000 RPM. It drives no different than the 4S setup did, but it runs cooler. After 10 minute run yesterday, motor temp was 140F and I used 1800 mAHr out of the battery for an average current consumption of 10.8 amps and average power output of about 250 watts.

If I could have I would have gone for about 1200KV instead of 1400, but quality sensored 1/8th motors of that KV are just not offered by the major manufacturers. (AFAIK, anyway.)

BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for sharing your experience Joe. I bet it's damn near uncontrollable at full throttle with that 2650kv in there.

My 8ight 2.0 is on a 2100kv and 4S and its absurd. Got the accel ramp in the ESC turned way down and it's still crazy. Was much stupider before turning the ramp down.

The 3.0 is getting a 1950kv as I might actually try to race it sometime and am thinking that is plenty. It might even be too much depending on the track.

Radio is here, steering servo is here, and all that's really left at this point is installing the electronics and getting it tuned/setup. This week for sure.

Go enjoy your ride. They're pretty damn tough as I have discovered.

I was just out bashing the 8ight 2.0, got a little cocky and flew around a corner out of my line of site. Forgot there was a tree there and hit it head on at near full speed. ( I R MORON) Nothing broke. The front shock tower (a tekno piece) is bent but that will be easy to fix. I'm shocked it came out intact at all.

foghat

You just have it lying in the receiver box?

I thought ideally you'd have at least a bit of the antenna running vertical - to match the orientation of the radio antenna?

Whatbrokenow

I picked one of these up awhile back to try something new. Im not a huge fan of the cab forward body, does anyone know if the 8ight-e/ e 2.0 body will fit? It looks a lot better to me personally, more like a buggy should.

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

The JConcepts Silencer is pretty nice. It's a popular body for the 3.0
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...co0245/p272378

Slashn77

I thought I read that the 2.0 body is a tight squeeze but will fit

BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

Well I've been running my car that last couple days. This thing is really well balanced. The Tekin ESC and 1950kv motor area good match for this chassis. Handling is great so far. I was out running in some pastures and am using the Proline Badlands and I'm very pleased with the grip they provide in the soft loamy dirt. Car got a little dirty (flat busted a couple of piles of horse poop) but the body did its job and kept the electronics clean.

Today I'll clean it up and try some of the jumps I've got around the house. Looking forward to seeing how it flies.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Amain has these for $299.

pdxrealtor

I just tried a 17t pinion on 4s with HW 2250 motor / SCT pro setup... on pavement. Stupid fast. Won't even turn under power. Way too much. Wheelies at any time.

In comparison we had another identical setup with a 15t pinion and it was so much .... better... in every way. More playful, easy to control while turning, no issues with pinning the throttle.

My question is - is there any value in tuning down the setup with the 17t pinion via the control box (punch control, timing, etc) or would it be better to tune up the 15t pinion a tad?

2nd question.... what steps can we take to keep the wheels on the ground under acceleration? With the 15t it's not too bad but still getting some wear on those front tires from ballooning.

PS- both cars got ran head on into curbs and other solid obstacles tonight at high rates of speed. No damage.... unbelievable.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

Look at it from the standpoint of the brushless motor. That motor's one job in life is to try and get to it's rated KV. It is most efficient the closer it gets. You are better off at 100% EPA and a lower pinion.
To keep the wheels on the ground during acceleration, go into your ESC program and turn down either punch or limit the current to 50% or less.....or try both till you can come down a straight without the fronts lifting or the rears getting loose. It sounds like you are running on pavement, so it might not matter as much as racing the car.

pdxrealtor

Today on pavement, for the first time. My brand new front tires lasted 5 minutes (durratrax bandito on roads) due to the wheel lift and ballooning. No matter how much I eased into the speed run I'd always lift the front end up when giving more throne too quickly. I'd run out of pavement to ease into top speed.

Anyways.... Thanks for those tips, I will certainly use them.

I think gearing down will solve most of it and what's left could be solved by finger control but it's just so hard to resist pinning that throttle!

What weight differential oil would help for keeping wheels on the ground, and also aid in on power steering?

Id like to get this thing dialed for an all terrain type setup. Pavement, loose dirt, some grass, and gravel.

Strictly bashing.

foghat

That is for the nitro version. They have been sold out of the electric for almost a month now.

superjoe5000

D'damn that sucks man
This thing is pretty expensive with all the sh*t I have in it and another set of identical tires and rims, 2 more bodies. Replacement motor and ESC. So my point is that I do careful bashing. The truck in the pic, I beat the snot out of that thing. I have about 2 runs on the Losi as of yet. Rain for a f'n week here.

Tcrox

iTrader: (10)

I've wasted so much time searching (including every tlr site, this site, google, etc) and the battery tray inner dimensions aren't documented anywhere I can find.

I bought a new battery from hobby king thinking nothing of the size, since it fit my 2.0 in the past. It's a heavy, big battery but it's cheap and I'm not a pro. It doesn't fit the 3.0.

The manual has no dimensions. I am going to pull a crude manual measure and go from there, but damn.

Is there any documented size for this thing? Sure wish I hadn't wasted $60 but lesson re-learned... measure twice cut once.

I did find the 2.0 conversion kit numbers:
These are NOT THE 3.0 MEASUREMENTS
Inner Width..........52.4mm
Inner Length.........167.2
Inner Depth..........15.7

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

As near as I can tell (my calipers only go to 153mm) the dimensions for the 3.0 E buggy tray are 155mm length, 52.8mm width. I know what you mean about those batteries. They fit good in my converted TLR truggy though. The 5000mah Turnigy will fit and works pretty well in the 3.0 ebuggy.