I don't understand racing. Seems boring to me. I've had xx-worlds buggies, xxx-4's, always had a blast with them.

Why would you not buy a Losi 8 E for bashing, there tough! The same reason I would but a Tekno for bashing, built to last.

This is a great basher....
i do everything with mine.....from bashing to drag racing to a dirt track.

I cant believe i havent broken anything yet. .....While drag racing ive taken alot of heinous cartwheels on concrete at like 70 mph.....nothing
While bashing, countless tumbles and bad landings off jumps...All ive ever had gone wrong was a (one) bent shock shaft.....Thats it.
I never even shimmed the rear diff.....Smooth like butter....

I keep thinking about selling it. I have another 8e 3.0 new in box kit i wanna build, but this thing has been so indestructable that im thinking it has to be an anomaly ...... So it aint going nowhere....

Finished building mine today. Running a tekin 1900 off of a 4C, she can pull the front wheels off the ground on a rather smooth surface.

I am loving the feel of the whole setup. I used only what came with the kit to start, including all fluids. I haven't hit the track yet but can't wait!

I want to post a picture but I guess I haven't made enough posts yet.

Added the image to the site's album and it lets me post the links now.

Here's the final product with some test wheels on it.

looks good! want to sell it ?

I guess to each their own

Does anyone have a way to make the TLR cab forward body last longer? My body was brand new, first race of the year and it lasted two runs. I didn't even have a crazy monster crash just a few normal bumps and bangs with other cars. The rear body post hole broke off, plus I used a tlr square plastic body washer. The body seems much tighter on the body posts than the original stock fin body. Wanted to dremel both the front and rear hole to make them larger but there is very little place between the body post holes and the edge of the body. I have heard people drilling holes in the front top plate and relocated the body post. Has anyone done this? Have pictures? Do you know any other way to increase a body life. 2 rounds of racing is ridiculous.

Thanks

I reinforce the body post holes with a couple layers of drywall tape and shoe-goo before first use. Admittedly it is the fin body, but I've run 1 and a half seasons on my first body.

I use velcro down the length of the side guards and body. I would suggest trying to find super industrial type stuff. The last stuff I bought was terrible. For a peace of mind i would take a some clear lexan and make a washer to pin over.

I still donīt understand the diffeence between on-power steering and off-power steering. Can anybody explain me what it is?

on power steering = how the car turns when your holding down the throttle (does not mean full throttle)
Off power steering = how the car turns when your not on the throttle

Thank you, thatīs kind of what I wanted to know.
The more power steering I have, the better I can exit a corner, meaning less understeering, right? What happens if you have too much powersteering? You flip the car or start to oversteer?

My car enters a corner quite easily, but when I exit, it doesnīt seem to want to turn at all anymore. Since it turns in so quickly, Iīm probably too quick at the beginning of the turn.

http://i1340.photobucket.com/albums/...psjjnnvhd4.jpg

Hi all,

Just got my 3.0e in the mail today (think I snagged the last one amain - at the clearance price). Anyway I haven't' built a kit since my tamiya bigwig...

On step 1 (steering link assembly) and 2 (servo saver assembly) and have a couple questions already:

1. my protek ptk-130t servo came with an aluminum servo horn with 2 holes that can connect to the linkage. However neither is at the same length as the plastic horn included in the kit. The split the difference - the kit horn hole is right in the middle of the holes in the aluminum horn. Does this matter? can I just use either of the holes on the aluminum unit? Perhaps a bigger issue is the kit screw that connect the horn to the linkage is too big for the aluminum horn.

At this point just thinking I should get a direct replacement aluminum horn - assuming such a beast exists? Any recommendations?

2. On servo saver step it talks about using engine spray to clean the threads on the aluminum shaft. I assume I could use carb cleaner or brake cleaner to the same effect?

3. Can anyone recommend a pinion gear for general bashing and a bit of outdoor track use? I have the smc 1900kv sensored motor and smc 4s 5200mah packs.

4. Is the included 5000w (I think that is what it is) okay for all the diffs - again, for mainly bashing.

5. Do you think the included 35 and 37.5 weight oil will suffice? I've read it is not as good as the stuff you can by after the fact.

Thanks a lot! Looking forward to learning as I build.