1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
03-15-2015, 07:13 PM
#3034
Hey, this might be a silly question but where are most of you mounting your transponders in this car? There isn't much open room on the chassis anywhere so are you just putting them inside the receiver box? I didn't know if it being inside there would cause it to not count laps 100% of the time or anything like that.
03-15-2015, 09:58 PM
#3035
Droop is the amount of down travel in the suspension. The more droop you have the more the chassis will pitch and roll, forward/aft and left/right. Think of it as a roll/pitch stop. Additionally more droop helps with rough tracks as the more travel helps soak up the smaller and more frequent bumps and ruts.
To set droop, you measure the length of the shock from screw eye to screw eye. Generally you want around 103mm front, 112mm rear.
To set droop, you measure the length of the shock from screw eye to screw eye. Generally you want around 103mm front, 112mm rear.
Thanks!!
What are the screws for the are in the front/rear arms right next the chassis?
03-15-2015, 11:58 PM
#3036
The screws you're referring to are indeed the droop screws. If they are unscrewed to the point they contact the chassis the down travel of the arm will start to be limited. In your case being new to racing 8th scale buggy, make sure the screws are screwed in far enough that they don't touch the chassis when the car is off the ground. Hope this helps a little. An experienced racer at your local track can probably help explain how "droop" suspension down-travel changes handling characteristics. But for now you need some wheel time. Start getting laps in.
03-16-2015, 04:56 PM
#3037
Does anyone know how phend and maifield got the 3.0evmotor adaptor to take the 4mm hex screws I'm having trouble ?????? Please help
03-16-2015, 06:30 PM
#3039
03-17-2015, 08:06 AM
#3040
Hey guys, I am at work and getting ready to order some things from A-main and forgot to measure how long of a sensor wire I need. I know the ones that come with the Tekin motors are too short for the 3.0 with the ESC up front but can somebody real quick tell me what length sensor wire I need to reach up front to my ESC? Thanks!!!
03-17-2015, 08:14 AM
#3041
Tech Rookie
Hey guys, I am at work and getting ready to order some things from A-main and forgot to measure how long of a sensor wire I need. I know the ones that come with the Tekin motors are too short for the 3.0 with the ESC up front but can somebody real quick tell me what length sensor wire I need to reach up front to my ESC? Thanks!!!
PTK-2109 ProTek RC Braided Brushless Motor Sensor Cable (300mm)
03-17-2015, 01:32 PM
#3042
Losi 8ight RTR vs 3.0 Kit
I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
Last edited by stanson; 03-17-2015 at 01:51 PM.
03-19-2015, 01:40 AM
#3043
Tech Adept
I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...
I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.
Thanks guys
03-19-2015, 04:47 AM
#3044
I am also very curious as I have already asked this question a month ago and no one replied! Come on TLR guys...help us out here! Promote your brand!
If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...
I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.
Thanks guys
If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...
I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.
Thanks guys
03-19-2015, 05:47 AM
#3045
I was trying to figure out the differences between the 3.0 kit and the latest RTR Losi 8ight. On their website there's a manual and explosion parts view, but it seems to be copied from the kit. I compared all the pics I could find on the web and found these differences (RTR vs KIT):
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
- plastic shock caps vs aluminium shock caps
- black 6061 chassis vs gold 7075 chassis
- plastic vs aluminium hinge pin braces
- black shock towers vs gold shock towers (not sure about the aluminium grade)
The thing is I can cheaply buy brand new RTR as a roller and make this my second (spare) race car. I have all the electronics, wheels and body. Not sure if it's worth it as that roller was an RTR and I don't love them much as they usually have many parts that need to be upgraded...
I am also very curious as I have already asked this question a month ago and no one replied! Come on TLR guys...help us out here! Promote your brand!
If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...
I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.
Thanks guys
If I get the RTR kit I will mainly bash with it. All the other RTR kits out there just seem like junk, especially the 8.2e. I purchased one not too long ago just to put it back in the box to return it -the QC on that thing was junk: stripped screws, crooked stickers, too much thread lock etc...
I am interested in this 8ight-e RTR version. I heard that they're durable and can take a good beating. I dont mind paying a little extra for an RTR if it is worth it.
Thanks guys