I'm replacing my stock plastic 16mm shock caps from my RTR with the aluminum versions. They didn't have bladders in them. Even after bleeding them I can't get the oil to stop leaking from out of the weep hole in the new aluminum caps when I compress them. Do I need to run a bladder with them to keep from leaking or will they eventually stop dripping from the weep hole? I would like to just run them emulsion style without the bladder if I can.

I'd say you need to run bladders or emulsion inserts. Use the bladders from the plastic ones you had and see if that solves your problem.

Hey guys, I need some confirmation on how the rear hinge pin inserts place, as in what goes where. I did a major clean up and rebuild after a race and I'm doubting myself as the manual isn't very clear with respect to which insert goes in which holder (RR or RF). The way I understand the manual, the middle / zero insert goes in the RR mount and the 1 UP goes in the FF mount, please confirm. This equates to 3 deg toe in and 3 deg anti squat?.

My next question relates to the 4.0 manual, with the same combo as described above the manual (4.0) states it gives you 4 deg anti squat, so what have they changed?

So on the 3.0 and the 4.0 the most back plate is your toe plate. 0's on both cars is 3 degrees toe in. Then the plate that is back but interior is your anti-squat. On the 3.0 car a 1 up or the hole facing upwards is 3 degrees antisquat. On the 4.0 car 1 up or the hole facing upwards is 4 degrees antisquat. The 4.0 has a new hinge pin holder and actually a new part number for it.

Ah thanks for clearing that up!. Much appreciated.

The stock plastic caps didn't have bladders of emulsion inserts. They had a bleeder screw and no weep hole at all.

Hey guys. I am doing my first build and can't quite figure out this piece. The place where I think it may go, the gap doesn't seem big enough. Can anyone provide direction or a link to video/picture? Step B11 page 21 of manual if it helps.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Found a video...figured it out. No need to respond.

That goes under the top plate in the front just under the body mount. It looks like you still haven't put those screws in yet.

Anyone have the issue of a Castle Creations setup having motor wires that just short of the needed distance to reach the ESC in its mounting location?

What has been your solution? I'm short about an inch or two.

Make wire longer by soldering on some more of it.

Ya... I was hoping to find some pre-made extensions, but the 10 gauge / 6.5 mm bullets don't seem to be plentiful!

Has anyone with the Castle motor/ESC setup (short wires) either

1) moved the battery try forward
2) cut off the front portion of the tray to move the ESC back
3) raised the ESC up so it is sitting on top, front,of the empty portion of the battery tray

The 4s batteries leave a space in the front of the battery tray. Just enough space to stuff with the foam pieces that come in the kit. This gives a platform for the ESC to sit on, but it raises it up and moves it over to right against the front center frame support.

so I was at motorama this past weekend and used my 3.0nfor the 1st time. the car was good worked on it alittle each run because I found it alittle loose in the rear. aside from that I was talking to a fella and he said that I should move the esc to the rear and battery forward. so my question is what will this do for the car and whats the easiest way to figure out where to drill the holes?

We want the same thing for different reasons.

It used to be in the front on the 2.0 and I can't see any reason for LOSI to move it except for handling effects. So..... moving the battery back where it came from on the previous model maybe a backwards move.