Not really a 15/45 probably would mesh the best. Once you find a gearing you like you will stick with it. My favorite is a 14/43. You might want to explore a steel 45t spur for extra durability.

I was just reading about metal vs. plastic.

Also looking at the mod 1 spur gear with the steel center insert, which allows for easy removal of the spur gear.

Is a 15/45 more torquey or top end than a 14/43? I need a gear chart, and accurate diff. ratios of the Losi in stock format so I can compare...

Does this sheet equate out the same as a 3.0 ?

I use a plastic spur in my 2.0T for sound. The metal is quite loud. If I was only racing it on a track, I would go with metal for durability, but bebopping around the neighborhood I prefer plastic. My neighbors thank me I'm sure lol. Currently running Castle 2200/MM with 45/17. But I might drop down a tooth or so to scrub speed off. Generally smaller pinion/ bigger spur gives you more torque= less speed. I would probably go to a 15T pinion, maybe even a 14T on a track, especially if it was a 1/10th track.

Does the CC 2200/esc/4s combo offer enough power to keep the same acceleration on a 17t pinion as a 15t pinion?

Just ordered the 45 metal spur, Novak pinion 3 pack (15-16-17), shock boots, and castle link quick connect.

Thx for all the advice. I also picked up a castle link card from my LHS.

FWIW I started my order on Amain but they were out of stock on one spur gear so I had to look elsewhere. I came across Power Hobbies and the exact same order was just over 20.00 cheaper!!!! THat's a decent savings! On top of that I called them up to verify my order would be here by a certain date and they confirmed it would be AND gave me free shipping because it was my first order.

If you are going to run a metal spur, you need hardened pinions. A non hardened one, will last about ten minutes before all the teeth are gone.

Or you can use non hardened on a nylon spur.
Losi LOSA3562 45T Spur Gear Plastic 8ight E 2.0 8ight E 4wd

All the losi 8 variants interchange.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...A3562&_sacat=0

Thanks... you had me nervous for a second. The Novaks are hardened... http://teamnovak.com/shop/index.php?...vib5rpbo5k23v6

Good deal. Always good to go with hardened in any case. I like Novak's, good quality. Be careful when you change you're spur, that you don't spill to much of the dif fluid unless you have more to top it off. If you're changing from plastic to steel, you will need to remove the plate under the plastic spur gear.
When you pull off the dif spur side, put it spider gear side down on a towel and the spider gear will slide off the output shaft on it own. You won't usually get a gasket with the new metal spur, so you'll have to reuse the old one if it's good or replace it if it's torn.

Reassemble and make sure the mesh inside the dif feels smooth. Remesh the mtr and pinion and go try it.

Thx for the tips! Will do...

Could you all view this short video clip and see if this front differential sounds correct.

(This is the front diff to a TLR 8ighty 3.0 Buggy. It is very smooth, but I didnt think it would be that noisey. I put the black grease on the both gears inside)

https://youtu.be/Bz1iJBqyAcw

Yeah, it's probably just fine. Under load it won't sound like that.

Okay. Thanks. Appreciate you watching the video and responding.

Just stripped the stock spur gear and bought the 45 tooth losi spur gear and now the spur catches on the chassis. They only thing I can thing is to put spacers underneath the metal center diff bracket to elevate it so it doesnt rub or cut the chassis. I really do not want to cut the chassis if possible. Am I just missing something super obvious?

Does the Center diff maybe need shimmed forward or back? It might be catching the edge of the machined slot that is in the chassis. Another option I have seen people run is run a spacer (LFR makes one) under the diff. My dad was running one on his 8ight-t 3.0 electric car so he could run a 48T steel spur. Only issues is you will have a slightly higher center of gravity.