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Old 03-24-2016, 09:14 AM   #3736
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Thank you!, will deff try it out!.
Let me know if you have any questions about the setup. Feel free to pm me!
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:18 PM   #3737
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Truggy casters? Got a part #? Is it LOSA1706? $$$!
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:27 PM   #3738
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Truggy casters? Got a part #? Is it LOSA1706? $$$!
TLR244016

You space them forward either with shims or with a small bearing like the one in the scte steering posts.
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:37 PM   #3739
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You will need to shim the caster. I used a scte steering rack bearing. I put the longer screw through the back and the short screw up front.
Here you go!
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:41 PM   #3740
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whats the difference in using the the truggy casters and the 4.0
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:43 PM   #3741
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whats the difference in using the the truggy casters and the 4.0
4.0 will work the same as the truggy caster and replicates the 4.0 caster with the spindle in the high position.
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:11 PM   #3742
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What is required to install the 4.0 caster 15*?
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:13 PM   #3743
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What is required to install the 4.0 caster 15*?
"TLR244016

You space them forward either with shims or with a small bearing like the one in the scte steering posts. "
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Old 03-26-2016, 01:44 PM   #3744
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Got to run against some other people today for the first time and realize I'm nowhere close to being able to carry enough momentum to allow my setup to work. I'm have some major chassis slap on landings unless I land PERFECTLY and we have a couple turns that are big doubles into hair pins that kill me. I clear the double fine but when I mash the brakes for the turn the nose slams into the ground since it's still coming off the double. That's no Bueno. Time to go with some different pistons and shock oil for sure!

Also had a high temp alarm on my telemetry unit (I have it set to 175) so I cut the two vent pods on the body (didn't cut the bottoms like I was supposed to) so I'll go try and push it hard tomorrow!
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:55 PM   #3745
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did some testing today and made some good progress. since the last time i drove the car i did the battery mod. i drove the car with the same set as last time but with the mod. there was a difference but not huge. then i went from 2.7 sway bar in the front and 2.5 sway in the rear to 2.3 all around. i felt the car got alittle better but was still twitchy in the front. so in the front i put 0's in both the front and rear hinge pin holder in the front of the car and BAM the car was a ton better. the steering got a ton smoother and more predictable. i was able to push the car alot harder with driving on egg shells.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:31 PM   #3746
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did some testing today and made some good progress. since the last time i drove the car i did the battery mod. i drove the car with the same set as last time but with the mod. there was a difference but not huge. then i went from 2.7 sway bar in the front and 2.5 sway in the rear to 2.3 all around. i felt the car got alittle better but was still twitchy in the front. so in the front i put 0's in both the front and rear hinge pin holder in the front of the car and BAM the car was a ton better. the steering got a ton smoother and more predictable. i was able to push the car alot harder with driving on egg shells.
So I'm curious. With the zero pills in the front and rear you eliminate the positive castor/kick up in the front correct and in the rear the zeros changed the toe angle correct?
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:14 PM   #3747
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So I'm curious. With the zero pills in the front and rear you eliminate the positive castor/kick up in the front correct and in the rear the zeros changed the toe angle correct?
sorry when I say front and rear I mean the front and rear plate on the front of the car. I did not touch the rear pills. so instead of running 1s up and 1s down in the front I put 0s
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:25 PM   #3748
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aaaaahhhhh. ok I see. so you just ditched the kick up front. I may try that. my steering is super sensitive and pushes hard when on the power. im going to try swapping out the swaybar first then I may try the zero pills.
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:36 AM   #3749
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If your guys cars are super twitchy in the front. First make sure you run the long ackerman, next choose a longer front camberlink location. Lastly make sure your camberlink balls are free and loosen up!
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:28 AM   #3750
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If your guys cars are super twitchy in the front. First make sure you run the long ackerman, next choose a longer front camberlink location. Lastly make sure your camberlink balls are free and loosen up!
i had all of this and it was still too responsive for me. after making the changes it was money
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