TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#3451
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 312
From: South Africa, Durban
Ok so I need some advice on battery layouts/configurations...
This is what i have:
Lipo choice A) - Positioned full forward and to the center
- Size:136.96 * 42.51 * 44.9mm (L * W * H)
- Weight: 530g
Lipo choice B) Positioned full forward either standing up and closer to the center or lying flat in the width of the tray and spaced full forward
-Size: 114 * 33 * 52mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 426g
Lipo choice C) Positioned full forward and to the center
-Size 132 * 31 * 39mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 400g
firstly ive been playing around with the battery in the rear and with the forward tray mod and ive noticed that the car is a lot more predictable with more weight in the rear (A- 530g) but with the tray forward the car overall seemed to enjoy the lightweight pack (B- 426g), it seemed more direct but also very predictable, it did also turn better overall in the very tight sections when compared to the stock tray location, but initially i felt like it had lost mid corner steering (it would just under-steer for no reason, very mildly) and then just changed the kick-up from 1 up's all round to 1 up in the front and 1 down in the rear and it seemed a bit better...
i cant really decide on whether i prefer the battery tray forward or in the stock position yet but what i did notice was a huge difference when using lipo B and positioning it either standing up or lying down...
the attached picture is how the battery looks when it is lying down...its wide and takes up the entire width of the tray but it's only 114mm in length so its pretty short...the other way i have tried it recently is standing it upright, full forward and completely to the center which leaves a rather large gap, but it seems to corner a lot better this way which i find surprising...
1) So my first question is if I'm using lipo B, would lying it flat (33mm height) and full forward so as to keep the weight as low as possible but spread out width-wise not be as effective as lying it upright (52mm height) , full forward and completely towards the center in an effort to keep the weight more to the center at the expense of the lipo sitting a bit higher??
2) second question...is a lighter a battery setup always better ito handling or does it depend on things like the bite of the track, etc? (i've been so surprised that the 530g battery was allowing me to be a lot more consistent, low bite and stock tray position)
Sorry about the ramble, just wanted to get in as much info as a could, i would really appreciate anyone's thoughts, comments and even just some info on the weights and dimensions of batteries that you are using and how you position them in the tray and why...
thanks
This is what i have:
Lipo choice A) - Positioned full forward and to the center
- Size:136.96 * 42.51 * 44.9mm (L * W * H)
- Weight: 530g
Lipo choice B) Positioned full forward either standing up and closer to the center or lying flat in the width of the tray and spaced full forward
-Size: 114 * 33 * 52mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 426g
Lipo choice C) Positioned full forward and to the center
-Size 132 * 31 * 39mm (L * W * H)
-Weight: 400g
firstly ive been playing around with the battery in the rear and with the forward tray mod and ive noticed that the car is a lot more predictable with more weight in the rear (A- 530g) but with the tray forward the car overall seemed to enjoy the lightweight pack (B- 426g), it seemed more direct but also very predictable, it did also turn better overall in the very tight sections when compared to the stock tray location, but initially i felt like it had lost mid corner steering (it would just under-steer for no reason, very mildly) and then just changed the kick-up from 1 up's all round to 1 up in the front and 1 down in the rear and it seemed a bit better...
i cant really decide on whether i prefer the battery tray forward or in the stock position yet but what i did notice was a huge difference when using lipo B and positioning it either standing up or lying down...
the attached picture is how the battery looks when it is lying down...its wide and takes up the entire width of the tray but it's only 114mm in length so its pretty short...the other way i have tried it recently is standing it upright, full forward and completely to the center which leaves a rather large gap, but it seems to corner a lot better this way which i find surprising...
1) So my first question is if I'm using lipo B, would lying it flat (33mm height) and full forward so as to keep the weight as low as possible but spread out width-wise not be as effective as lying it upright (52mm height) , full forward and completely towards the center in an effort to keep the weight more to the center at the expense of the lipo sitting a bit higher??
2) second question...is a lighter a battery setup always better ito handling or does it depend on things like the bite of the track, etc? (i've been so surprised that the 530g battery was allowing me to be a lot more consistent, low bite and stock tray position)
Sorry about the ramble, just wanted to get in as much info as a could, i would really appreciate anyone's thoughts, comments and even just some info on the weights and dimensions of batteries that you are using and how you position them in the tray and why...
thanks
#3454
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 272
I have a losi 8ight E truggy that keeps stripping the rear gears and sometimes the front,even after shimming pretty tight Im looking to just buy complete new differentials, I see a bunch for sale on ebay,is the 3.0 a tighter meshing diff,or do they need shimed freq also?
I hear the buggy gear ratio doesnt have as much problems,looks like buggy pin gear is 13 front and back and truggy is 10 and 11 pin,is the ring gear same size? buggy diffs seem to be much cheaper on ebay,can those be run in a truggy and correct with a diff size spur gear? Are there any differences on the Elec and nitro diffs?
I hear the buggy gear ratio doesnt have as much problems,looks like buggy pin gear is 13 front and back and truggy is 10 and 11 pin,is the ring gear same size? buggy diffs seem to be much cheaper on ebay,can those be run in a truggy and correct with a diff size spur gear? Are there any differences on the Elec and nitro diffs?
#3456
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 11
Ok, So I have a newb question.
I just picked up a used 8 3.0 with a RX8 Gen2, SMC 1900KV and a toasted 4s, Im looking to buddy up two 2s lipo batteries together to make the 4s configuration.
The reason is I have two SCTE's and a axial crawler and still want to be able to use the batteries for my other cars and not just one designated battery for my 8
I will be doing mostly bashing and some track time.
What would be a good recommendation for the 2s batteries or am I just wasting my time and need to buy a 4s??
I just picked up a used 8 3.0 with a RX8 Gen2, SMC 1900KV and a toasted 4s, Im looking to buddy up two 2s lipo batteries together to make the 4s configuration.
The reason is I have two SCTE's and a axial crawler and still want to be able to use the batteries for my other cars and not just one designated battery for my 8
I will be doing mostly bashing and some track time.
What would be a good recommendation for the 2s batteries or am I just wasting my time and need to buy a 4s??
Last edited by TLR79; 09-25-2015 at 11:02 AM. Reason: added info
#3458
Ok, So I have a newb question.
I just picked up a used 8 3.0 with a RX8 Gen2, SMC 1900KV and a toasted 4s, Im looking to buddy up two 2s lipo batteries together to make the 4s configuration.
The reason is I have two SCTE's and a axial crawler and still want to be able to use the batteries for my other cars and not just one designated battery for my 8
I will be doing mostly bashing and some track time.
What would be a good recommendation for the 2s batteries or am I just wasting my time and need to buy a 4s??
I just picked up a used 8 3.0 with a RX8 Gen2, SMC 1900KV and a toasted 4s, Im looking to buddy up two 2s lipo batteries together to make the 4s configuration.
The reason is I have two SCTE's and a axial crawler and still want to be able to use the batteries for my other cars and not just one designated battery for my 8
I will be doing mostly bashing and some track time.
What would be a good recommendation for the 2s batteries or am I just wasting my time and need to buy a 4s??
Last edited by spookie; 09-25-2015 at 03:13 PM.
#3459
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 11
I'm running two 5K mah 2S's stacked on edge in my 2.0. Runs great. I stacked them on edge because their lower that way, than laying flat. I have the connectors down next to the batteries. Bodies fit super tight on the 8's. The JConcepts Illusion body, sick body btw for 2.0, has a higher side, so you can run taller batteries.
I tried one last time to chg the 4s and well I had my first lipo Fire!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Buy I did get a super deal on the Jconcepts silencer body.
I'm going to order some 2s 5ks
#3460
I'm the same way, I have sct's and had batteries from my 3908 E-Maxx, so I was determined to use them lol. I ran my battery wires and connectors under the battery straps to keep them snugged up on the side.
I know this is a 3.0 thread, but can the 3.0 dogbone wheel setup be used on a 2.0? I need to replace the front driveshafts and see a great deal on the front and rear dogbone 3.0 shafts and wheel cups/stubs. If they'll fit, I'll just swap over to that setup. I'm already running 15 degree caster setup if it matters. Thanks ahead of time.
I know this is a 3.0 thread, but can the 3.0 dogbone wheel setup be used on a 2.0? I need to replace the front driveshafts and see a great deal on the front and rear dogbone 3.0 shafts and wheel cups/stubs. If they'll fit, I'll just swap over to that setup. I'm already running 15 degree caster setup if it matters. Thanks ahead of time.
#3461
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 312
From: South Africa, Durban
I'm the same way, I have sct's and had batteries from my 3908 E-Maxx, so I was determined to use them lol. I ran my battery wires and connectors under the battery straps to keep them snugged up on the side.
I know this is a 3.0 thread, but can the 3.0 dogbone wheel setup be used on a 2.0? I need to replace the front driveshafts and see a great deal on the front and rear dogbone 3.0 shafts and wheel cups/stubs. If they'll fit, I'll just swap over to that setup. I'm already running 15 degree caster setup if it matters. Thanks ahead of time.
I know this is a 3.0 thread, but can the 3.0 dogbone wheel setup be used on a 2.0? I need to replace the front driveshafts and see a great deal on the front and rear dogbone 3.0 shafts and wheel cups/stubs. If they'll fit, I'll just swap over to that setup. I'm already running 15 degree caster setup if it matters. Thanks ahead of time.
1x TLR242001 - rear
1x TLR242002 - frnt
2x TLR242003 - coupler outdrive
#3462
. I ordered what I think I need for the wheel shafts, they should be here later this week. If this works out, I may change the center shafts to dogbones as well. I'm trying to take advantage of some of the newer parts in an older platform.
#3463
I am looking to try something different. I currently run a MBX7r and am happy but have been thinking about trying out the 3.0e. Anyone make that switch and can give me some comparison info?
Thanks,
E
Thanks,
E
#3464
I didn't switch but my best friend drives MBX7r and we raced together the whole season.
About build quality: Losi gets much more sloopy within time but I haven't broke a single part for the whole season. He broke a few sets of front arms, rear arms, diff mounting...
About driving: Losi flies sooooo much better on big fast tracks with long jumps. Amazing balance comparing to Mugen. But in sharp slow corners it gets unpredictable sometimes and it's not the setup problem. I'm sure you'll be much more consistent with Mugen unless you're a very experienced driver.
I was also looking for something different and will try with the new EB48.3
About build quality: Losi gets much more sloopy within time but I haven't broke a single part for the whole season. He broke a few sets of front arms, rear arms, diff mounting...
About driving: Losi flies sooooo much better on big fast tracks with long jumps. Amazing balance comparing to Mugen. But in sharp slow corners it gets unpredictable sometimes and it's not the setup problem. I'm sure you'll be much more consistent with Mugen unless you're a very experienced driver.
I was also looking for something different and will try with the new EB48.3
#3465
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...fci202/p423772
X Factory "Infinity" Carbon Fiber TLR 8IGHT 3.0 Front & Rear Arm Stiffener Set
X Factory "Infinity" Carbon Fiber TLR 8IGHT 3.0 Front & Rear Arm Stiffener Set



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