Thanks DJ

so... I should start at the back of the manual and work forward?
I better gather up some small boxes and bags to keep everything straight

I am real excited, I have wanted one of these for a while now.

is the metal nitro spur a direct fit???

if not, what metal spur is??

The steel 43 tooth spur gear used as the option gear for the nitro is a direct fit. Place the shims the same way as with the plastic spur.

I've run 12+ packs through and, although pinching the ball ends helps for a few seconds, I feel that they just need a LOT of wearing in......
I've also removed, cleaned, WD40'd, cleaned, repeat, repeat.....
As I said I think they just need a LOT of wearing in.

What I found was, as the suspension starts to bind, corners taken at the same speed early.... The car starts to flip over too easily......

An agama 43t steel spur fits perfectly.

How are the ball ends pinched? Do you remove them from the ball before pinching?

Pinch them with the ball in doesn't take much but might have to do them after a running a few packs.

Used vise grips on the ends on the car took 2 min to do. Now they are like butta!

Haven't tried vice-grips.... Did you leave it on for a minute or two...?

After going through the whole cleaning process again last night, I ran 4 packs through this afternoon.
Ran beautifully, then started to bind up again by the third pack. I pinched then ends and by the time the 4th pack was done, she's all bound up again.
Think I might try buffing the balls with some cutting compound and see if that makes a difference...??
Maybe I just got an overly tight set or something.....???

On the whole ball end subject, what I did when I built mine was after I had the balls snapped in the ends, I squeezed them in a vice and put a hex wrench through the ball and worked it around a few times and they loosened up a bit. There was still some slight binding but noticeably better than before. I ran my car for the first time last night, 2 packs through and it all feels pretty free, maybe just a slight bit of binding but nothing serious enough to worry about (at least not to me)

Now, after running the car for a little bit I'm noticing that it has tons of steering but the rear end doesn't feel quite locked in like I would like. I am at 5/7/5 in the diffs, would going down to 3 in the rear lock it in more?

Using the pinch method is not a very efficient way of getting the best out of your links.
You not only deform the plastic, but you weaken it a bit and cause inevitable future slop and sometimes premature failure.

I learned years back how the helicopter guys actually friction bore them using an extra pivot ball fixed into a drill.
The trick is to not spin it overly fast, as to not melt the plastic, but rather not overly slow as to not heat up at all. When you do it right it will feel warm to the touch and will perfectly and symmetrically wear down like silk with no slop or binding possible after. Inherently as it was actually bore-sized with the ball intended for use.
You can add a few drops of graphite or some from a pencil and spin it in there after you bore it to have even more slickness.
Maybe I will make a video demonstrating the process sometime.

Warning, lame question coming...
I switched from Associated and most of my tools don't work.
I'm european and don't get US metrics and Losi is US

So I need help, the best would be direct links to examples of hex drivers I need for these screws:



Thanks in advance.

Your 2.0mm wrench fits those. 2mm is the same exact as 5/64".

I stand corrected on my statement that pinching the ball ends doesn't work......
I was simply just not pinching hard enough.
Once I applied a lot more pressure, they have loosened right up.

Charging batteries now and will be taking it for a run this morning. We'll see how they hold up.......

Thank to all for your suggestions.

Tools for the 8ight....
I have 3mm, 2.5mm, 2mm & 1/16", 5/64", 3/32".
Got the imperial hexes from Hobbyking... Cheap but the do the job...
Also... 2mm is ever so slightly bigger than 5/64". If using 2mm, be careful not to strip out the top of the screw, as I did....

Hey guys, i am finally wanting to get a 1/8 scale buggy because the indoor season for 1/10 here ended. I was wanting to consider the RTR version of the 3.0 or a kit RC8.2e. I am not for one company over the other. I just wanted a nice starting platform that i could race on my backyard track and take to the racetrack when i get more comfortable with it. Is the RTR 3.0e a good buggy to durablility wise and price point wise for what you get?