Glad to help!

How are you guys measuring droop? I have 30mm droop blocks and a gauge, but the front steering knuckles are basically touching my setup board. I have seen reference to measuring shock lengths while mounted. Is this the best way?

Also, how much droop is appropriate? I run on a high bite indoor clay track that is smooth.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H99PKqsUZjA

Is measuring the shock affected by the position of the shock on the upper and lower mounts? For example, if I move to the top inside mount for the shock, will this change the droop?

Nope, as long as the droop screws are bottoming out on the chassis "droop" will be the same but the stroke/travel of the shock will change. The leverage will change at the arm.

If its high bite I would start with lowering the roll center and set the droop at box stock settings and work less droop in from there as needed. The more droop the better for landings and jumping.

If you want to know the amount of droop (and other setup parameters) you can look at the team setup sheets:

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups

Or just use the standard droop from the stock setup.

Some help needed,
I just got this buggy and was wondering about servos. Would the xp1015 or the spectrum 6090 work well with this buggy? I run spectrum so I want to avoid savox but these two were the top of my list. The only thing I see for spectrum is that you can run 7.4 vs the xp only runs 6. I will be running a 4s pack.

Thanks,

If a fella has a 3.0 nitro but doesn't want to buy the conversion kit. Could he simply buy the 3.0 e chassis and battery layout and have the 3.0 e car? Meaning I don't want to have the conversion where the esc is in the back

Just for your information, some with the E 3.0 have actually modded their battery/esc layout to have the esc in the back.

Another thing, if the goal really is a pure E 3.0, you would probably be better off, in the long run, buying an E 3.0 kit and use the nitro 3.0 as spares.

The rear drive shaft is different and you need the Steering servo mount motor mount and diff cover (for the wires).

You basically replace everything in the middle of the chassis but the front and rear clips are the same.

awesome thats what i needed to know!!

For everyone that was having a terrible time getting the front arms to be free, I ended up testing an #18 drill bit --works perfect.

I tried the 10-32 tap like someone suggested for the droop screw, with some new arms before I tried to screw in the droop screw -- did nothing. Still wasn't free.

The #18 drill bit makes it nice and free, with only a VERY SLIGHT amount of play.

Hope this helps.

I did mine recently with a 10-32 tap and they came out Smoooooth as butter.....