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Old 05-22-2014 | 06:55 PM
  #2026  
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For those who have moved the battery forward, which body are you using?
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Old 05-23-2014 | 05:59 AM
  #2027  
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Originally Posted by K.Lund
For those who have moved the battery forward, which body are you using?
The stock body.
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Old 05-23-2014 | 07:10 AM
  #2028  
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Are you indoor guys running your bump steer up or down?
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Old 05-23-2014 | 07:11 AM
  #2029  
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I have a JC lid coming in today. The stock lid is pretty good but I will be able to compare it to the JC next week. We have a trophy race I am going to sport it in. The Stock lid has cracked on me right at the front mount.
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Old 05-23-2014 | 08:30 AM
  #2030  
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Same here front and rear cracked at slotted mount area. Might try 100% Velcro on sides. Anyone just run Velcro? No Clips?
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
I have a JC lid coming in today. The stock lid is pretty good but I will be able to compare it to the JC next week. We have a trophy race I am going to sport it in. The Stock lid has cracked on me right at the front mount.
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Old 05-23-2014 | 09:51 AM
  #2031  
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I'm running the JConcepts Silencer body with velcro and clips. It would stay on with just the velcro though.
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Old 05-23-2014 | 09:56 AM
  #2032  
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Originally Posted by XXXDad
Same here front and rear cracked at slotted mount area. Might try 100% Velcro on sides. Anyone just run Velcro? No Clips?
I ran 100% Velcro at one time. It makes it a pain In the a$$ to take the lid off and the Velcro likes to peel off sometimes. Just didn't work out like I thought.

I like to put Velcro just in the indention of the chassis skirt on both sides and then...

What did work to prevent the front from cracking.... Get your dremmel tool out with the pyramid tipped bit and lengthen the front slot by trimming the slot out about 1/4" toward the rear end of the buggy. I believe the reason it is cracking is because of the chassis flex on impact binds the lid creating too much stress in that particular area. I did this about a month ago and haven't cracked one yet. So far so good.

Last edited by 8ighteRun; 05-23-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 05-24-2014 | 06:03 AM
  #2033  
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i put a plastic washer on both ends haven't cracked it in a year body looks new yet
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Old 05-24-2014 | 06:43 AM
  #2034  
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Okay fellas I wish you could have seen my kit last night. DAMN!!! it was flat out dialed. Finally bought some springs. Put the silver spring on front and BAM! steering was absolutely perfect off and on power. TQ with a 12 second gap on second. Any hoot with a 9 second lead in the main I had a fluke roll over. Didn't feel right but I thought I would wait on 2.3.4, to catch up. A 2.0 a Mugen and an AE were battling like a world event. I wanted to see if I could tell where my car was good. Yep GOOD not bad..LOL any rate they came by and went, Uhg I quickly found out the roll over was not a fluke. My steering tension spring broke on my DX4R Pro, man I was bumming after that.....

At any rate off power in practice the 2 changes I made for the night was I am running the wing mount with no shims and the silver front spring and I was flat out dialed. Can't wait to see how it does this weekend in its first trophy race.

Finally I think I have mastered this kit. But I am still going to test the battery mod. I got a part time job at the track as well for my days off.. Life is good. I am now the head track maintenance man and announcer on Friday nights. Tee Hee.

And I have to say. Get some of those Hard Gridirons on AKA's web site. There on clearance. I tested some last night with Black AKA inserts and can not plug these tires more. I picked up 4 more sets. Twice the wear as the Medium and with about the same performance side bite only better forward bite at our track, (night time racing prepped track). Although day time dry rough they are great but about the same wear with slightly better performance.
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Old 05-24-2014 | 06:46 AM
  #2035  
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Originally Posted by 8ighteRun
I ran 100% Velcro at one time. It makes it a pain In the a$$ to take the lid off and the Velcro likes to peel off sometimes. Just didn't work out like I thought.

I like to put Velcro just in the indention of the chassis skirt on both sides and then...

What did work to prevent the front from cracking.... Get your dremmel tool out with the pyramid tipped bit and lengthen the front slot by trimming the slot out about 1/4" toward the rear end of the buggy. I believe the reason it is cracking is because of the chassis flex on impact binds the lid creating too much stress in that particular area. I did this about a month ago and haven't cracked one yet. So far so good.
I think that's what got me the velcro would come off on the side guard. Tried another brand and still came off. I finally scuffed the indention off with scotch bright and its holding on so far.
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Old 05-24-2014 | 06:48 AM
  #2036  
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Originally Posted by ScottZ
i put a plastic washer on both ends haven't cracked it in a year body looks new yet
Plus 1 here as well. I put some on mine front and rear after I saw the crack forming, (more surface area)
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Old 05-24-2014 | 06:37 PM
  #2037  
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Anyone know the battery tray dimensions? Just seeing if I need to get new batteries if I switch to this buggy. I did a search and really didn't see anything posted. Thx!
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Old 05-25-2014 | 10:05 AM
  #2038  
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Originally Posted by tkge
Anyone know the battery tray dimensions? Just seeing if I need to get new batteries if I switch to this buggy. I did a search and really didn't see anything posted. Thx!
I don't have my buggy in front of me to actually measure it for you. I left it at the track last night. I run a venom 5000 50c 4s and have PLENTY of room left. I'm actually running 3 foam blocks behind it to keep the pack weight forward in the buggy.

What kind of packs are you talking about running in your 3.0?
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Old 05-25-2014 | 10:35 AM
  #2039  
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Originally Posted by tkge
Anyone know the battery tray dimensions? Just seeing if I need to get new batteries if I switch to this buggy. I did a search and really didn't see anything posted. Thx!
Its about 53x156mm.
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Old 05-25-2014 | 06:08 PM
  #2040  
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Thanks for the help!
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