No prob. It has taken me a couple weeks with mine to get it how I want it and to be comfortable with it, I tried Drakes outdoor setup but found it lacking steering on our track ( where roar nats just was). I tweaked it from there and got it super fast, but it became hard for me to drive. I then went back to the stock setting and have tweaked it to exactly how I want it. I couldn't be more happy.

This last Friday I was able to take the TQ (we had 3 heats of e buggies) and had an epic battle for the win, I was also able to take the win in e truggy with the T 3.0e. I love these Losi cars....

What is the secret to keeping the body from cracking at the nose piece? I've raised the mount itself up to create less of angle when clipped in but have still had 2 bodies crack at the nose

I may just throw my 2.0 set up on it seems how I am getting close to that anyway now. I won the pro-series state champion ship with it. I can tell this kit is better in some aspects. I'll get it dialed in some time.
main difference is the dog bones in the center. This kit doesn't have as much roll either I don't think. The whole kit feels like a lower roll center.

Is it cracking or splitting from knife marks?

I move the mount completely to the top of the steering top plate and oval the hole. It moves it into an area with more material with the ability to oval the hole.

Jconcepts body


Stock

That may work, I'll get a pic of my position and post it up

I've done this on my agamas and losis which have similar mounts and never tore one yet. Tore one custom body and that was the last $80 body I would let that happen to. Seems to work for me.

I don't know which Phend setup you tried, but did you notice the setup he posted here some pages back:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13042534-post1439.html

I copied this setup to my sons and mine E 3.0's, as we drive on somewhat similar tracks as the Fear Farm Raceway.

I can't see which kind of track you are running on, so don't know if this setup is relevant. Anyway:

We have changed the shock oils to 45F/40R, as this suits our particular track better.

I'm not a pro racer and I have just started experimenting with setup, so please take my advise with "caution".

I made another change to my car, because I think i did not have enough (or fast enough) initial steering going into tight 180 degree turns, which there are some of on our track.

There are probably tons of combinations of setup changes to gain more off power steering, but I didn't want to mess up the whole setup, so i tried to install the short ackerman link, which gives a more aggressive initial steering, so the car turns faster into the tight turns.

So for now, I have used the short ackerman link to gain some more off power steering, so that the car much more nimbly snaps around those 180 degree turns while still being sufficiently stable not to become "twitchy" in other parts.

Anyone knows the difference between the LOSA4441 and TLR244021?

Only difference is the TLR part#has clearance for the short Ackerman. You can just grind in clearance is you get the LOSA # and want to run the short plate.

OK, thanks. i bought the LOSA part for my sons buggy, and he runs the long ackerman :-)

what size turnbuckle wrench is needed for the 3.0e and what size hex wrench's are needed to assemble the kit?

1-1/2 turns of the rear shock and perfectly balance cross weight on my new skyrc weight balancing system.

Where did you purchase the scale system at??