fyrman41

iTrader: (1)

I am running a Tekin pro 4 4600.....15 pinion and 40 spur
indoor clay track

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I run 14/40 at lsr with a 4700 Hobbywing. Could even go to a 13 the track isn't that big. IMO you're over geared.

ohiosupersport

iTrader: (14)

Anyone running the mip bypass setup, what springs are you running?

MonsterSummit

iTrader: (15)

I'm sure some people will have some different opinions, but there are a couple reasons for me to run a 2-pole. I run the Orion R10pro with a Thunder Power 4.5T motor. One reason for me is because I don't have to run an 1/8 esc. And like Dakotah said the turbo and boost settings in the Orion are awesome. With the 4.5T I am usually geared 12 or 13/40. But usually I just adjust my boost/turbo in the esc. I ran the Pro4 4600 for a while and bought the 4300HD and ran it for 1 race and sold it. To me, those motors are just way to much UNUSABLE power in these trucks. Where as the 2 pole is just as fast, but the power coming on throttle is extremely smooth. I run against Pro4 4300HD's on a regular basis and never get out motored. And I have yet to find a jump on a track that I am unable to do with the 4.5T. The biggest reason I run the 2-pole is that it seems to be so much easier on batteries. No more worrying if you will make the main with enough battery, nor have I puffed a single pack since going to the 2-pole. I always said if I ever felt as if I got beat because of running a 2-pole motor I would go back to the 4-poles. But in all honesty, I don't ever see that becoming a problem. The biggest test for me came at the CRCRC Winter Midwest Champs a couple weeks ago. I was able to TQ Matt Olson and run a faster lap overall throughout the weekend. The mains were a different story with me choking, but overall I did not feel as though I was at a disadvantage to Olson.

Duunga

I just bought my scte 2.0 and am going to try Ryan's set up but i have a couple questions.

1) are we not using droop screws at all since we are removing the button head pads?
2) if we are not using droops screws should they be removed as well?
3) is there a measurement for front and rear droop?(with calipers)

thx so much,

Noob

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Correct we are shock limiting the droop. For the setup that calls for 1's up in the front and 1's down on the rear for the front pivot the droop screws hit early and limit the droop so we remove them. If you leave the screws in the arms that is up to you.

For blue groove tracks we do limit the droop some but for typical clay tracks we run full droop on the setup.

rivalshad

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info. I was assuming it would be easier on the esc not having to do as much switching with 2 poles instead of 4. Do you need to back the 2 pole up with high C packs to equal the torque of the 4 poles or is running 50c fine? What kind of batteries are you running and what does the run time look like on them?

That's the biggest thing I like about running 1/8 buggies over 4x4, double the run time. So if I could stretch my 4x4 run time out a bit without having to go 3s it sounds promising.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

+1

Smooth power is better, Tekin Pro 4's are like an on/off switch. I got to try a HobbyWing 4700 and that motor makes more power, runs cooler and is way smoother.

You must be a really good driver if you beat MIP Matt.
The only reason I run that motor is because I bought the truck with it and I run a large outdoor track. In all honesty a 4000 is probably plenty.

BSCFlash

iTrader: (4)

Unless you're running a gigantic track, you are WAY over geared. 13 for smaller tracks, and 14 for larger tracks (and maybe 12 for little tracks or tracks with short straights).

fyrman41

iTrader: (1)

thank you........I will change my gear

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

SO... i keep snapping front cvds... pins, inner bones, new, used, rebuilt... I'm running a 13/40 on a Tekin 4300 HD, RX8 gen 2. I turned the HP down fairly low (and lost a second on my average lap time for it) and i'm still popping them.

any ideas?

I dont want to shell out cash for the tekno stuff, but i might have to. Its been so bad i've been keeping 6-8 NEW losi spares on me to make sure i make it through a race day. I made it through sundays race and went to practice (to try to get my second back) yesterday and snapped one.

MonsterSummit

iTrader: (15)

I believe mine are 50-60c packs 6000mah. Your runtimes SHOULD be much longer with the 2-pole vs. 4-pole. I think in a 5 min qualifier I only use around 2200mah. I would say with the current batteries I run 12-15min runtimes would not be a problem. Not that we run them that often, but a 8-10min main is no problem even with running several warm up laps before the race. Also, I never really feel the power getting "soft" towards the end of runs like I used to while using the 4-poles. For me the smooth and very driveable power of the 2-pole suits me. I tend to drive WIDE OPEN and with a 2 pole it is easy to do and to drive very hard. With the 4-pole I was always making mistakes trying to drive it way to hard.

I have heard good things about the hobbywing motor. If I ever wanted to go back to a 4-pole it is probably what I would try.

And thanks! That was my first national level race and first time meeting Matt. He is a really nice guy thats for sure. But he didn't make getting TQ very easy thats for sure. I TQ'ed the first 2 rounds of 4 on Saturday. I thought I had TQ pretty well locked up. Then he came out and TQ'ed the 3rd round. Going into the 4th round I basically had to TQ Matt to make sure I kept it. He got out to an early lead on the clock on a new TQ, but I finally was able to calm down on the stand and put in a pretty good run to catch Olson on the clock and get the round 4 TQ. I was pretty pumped. And first thing Matt did after the last qual was come find me and congratulate me. I thought that was a pretty standup move.

MonsterSummit

iTrader: (15)

I have never had this issue, but I wonder if it has to do anything with your gearing? The only reason I say that is when I ran the 4300HD I went up 2teeth on the pinion to a 15-16 which would smooth out some of that bottom end power. With a 13t that thing would have crazy amounts of torque on the bottom. I could be way off base here, but just a thought. Are they breaking when you hammer the throttle from slow speeds?

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

I have a 14 tooth i could throw on there... i'm just worried about run time. Im using SMC 6500s... but i guess i can give it a whirl.

I'm breaking them just about everywhere. Under braking, landing (smoothly) a large (long) jump, in the middle of the straights, and pulling out of hairpins. I've been breaking inner rods near the barrel and i've been breaking pins. It might just be a rash of bad luck and/or some worn parts.

BSCFlash

iTrader: (4)

What ESC are you running? My guys are experimenting with a current limit of 35 to 40, and that seems to be the sweet spot. It will still pop wheelies on a concrete driveway with CL this low, by the way, so more than enough for normal tracks unless they're extremely high bite.

Remember, with this ESC, you can gain some speed by adding up to 25 or 35 degrees of timing, and slow it down by reducing the throttle travel so you can fine tune if you seem to be between gears or if track conditions change. Just monitor your temps!