Have tested it much at 26 or 25 much? 2mm isn't the end of the world.

2mm is a pretty significant change in ride height for a 1/10th scale 2wd.

How many limiters are you running in the rear? I run stiffer oil a softer spring (green) and different pistons (AVID 2+2 1.5:1.1). So staying with those pistons I'd say maybe go stiffer on the oil a tad and try it. If you're running 3 limiters maybe take one or two out to get some additional travel.

stock kit limiters now, will try green springs and 30 wt and see if that fixes it. easiest way is to down side it perfect everytime..lol but i can't do that

I ran white springs, 30 wt and 2x1.6 tapered pistons in the rear and it was dialed. The stock springs (black front, white rear) always worked the best for me, tried all the other soft springs and they werent as good in my opinion. You run 17.5 right? Try going to a higher gearing to get the acceleration needed to clear that jump easier rather than changing car set up too much.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

To be completely honest, the kit (stock) set up is awesome! You dont really NEED to do anything special. But if you want to make upgrades to it, first things first, buy different ball cups. RPM and Jconcepts are the best in my opinion, the AE low friction ones are great too. IF you wanna run stock motor, I would suggest an aluminum top shaft at the very least. It lightens the rotating mass and gives it much more punch and helps keep motor temps down. You can always get the MIP puck system if you want to spend the money on it, makes a big difference as well. Another thing I liked a lot was the Jconcepts carbon fiber front tower, kept snapping the stock one and had no issues after I bought the JC one. The AVID shock stand-offs are a MUST as well, you will fly through the standard aluminum AE ones if not. Lastly, I would recommend but certainly not a must, is the AVID centering kit. I loved that kit.

Pretty much, It's all up to you and your budget. If you have the time, the budget and the will, then by all means, get all those things. but if not, you will still enjoy the B4.2 right out of the box!

+1 on the Kit set up. I used my last set up from my 4.1 and just couldn't get it to "feel" right for me. Put the kit set up on it and instantly lost .5 second in lap times and gained a crap load of consistency. Car was easier to drive hard and felt great for me. The only changes I make are the rear springs if I need more or less rear traction. But tire choice take care of most of that anyway.

My question is are the aluminum Ft 0 degree rear hubs different than the plastic 0 degree hubs besides bigger bearing on the outside. I bought the car used and the big bearings are shot but I cant get them out for the life off me, so I just put the the spare plastic hubs on. Or could I wait for the B5 hubs to come out and just run those?

The infield landing into the left hander is the one i am talking about. I will try diferent oil.

Put the hubs in the oven at 350F for about 30 minutes(or use a heat gun or propane torch to heat them up) The aluminum hub will grow more than the steel bearing. After they are hot you can tap them on your bench to get the bearing out.

I run stock springs, stock limiters with 27.5 wt in the rear. and the car is ultra dialed. Ride height is everything. I cannot remember what my rear is at but go from stock and play with it. My front is lower than the rear.

Why cant u stick a screwdriver in the bearing hole and pry it out.

Trust me I wouldn't be asking this question on the forum if I haven't already tried that. I have gotten a screw driver and even took a hammer to it with no luck, I believe the guy almost supper glued the damn bearing in from what I can see

I have a couple decades dealing with anodized components so take my advice and do what I say with confidence...

Have the hub removed and set it somewhere that can endure high temperatures and hit the hub with a butane torch for a few minutes so the aluminum expands a touch and softens up the hold the glue has on the bearing and then try to tap it out with your screw driver and hammer. You will not hurt the finish on the aluminum and tilt it blackens you can simply wipe it right off.

Try that and let us know how it works for you.