Ok, small to medium on track size. I compare it to the outdoor track, so it is smooth compared to the outdoor track. I've ran on the indoor track when the bite was pretty good, but I was running my Tekno SCT410. The doubles by the way that divides the pits with the track are decent sized, the table top is ok as well.
BFG is the only track I've ever ran on, so I can't compare it to anything else!! LOL!!
I don't think I'll make it out to BFG Friday night. I hope to have my B4.2 ready by Saturday to run some practice laps. I'm waiting on some shock parts for my Tekno SC truck, so it won't be in service by Friday.

I can use all the help I can get!!!

Does anyone here run the MIP pucks drive system?

I also race at bfg. I have been using the ray munday setup. It worked great for outside But the oil is to thick for the whoops in the middle. I think the stock setup would work good. Maybe just drop the rear oil to 27.5. But he is going to change the track next week.
Make sure you have the right tires, soft barcodes front and rear have been working good.

I will be racing there on friday if u need any help just ask.

Andy

Ok, I think I know who you are... Was your daughter racing with you on the Friday after Thanksgiving? I think you guys were pitted at the same table as I was. I was next to the wall and you guys were on the outside of the table.

Does your daughter drive the U of M themed SC truck?

Which Ray Munday setup are you running? I'm assuming you talking about his chart. Are you using his medium traction setup, or the standard setup?

Yep that is me. I am using 37.5 if the front and 32.5 in the rear. It works well on most of the track. It is just to thick for the whoops. I am going to change after this week. Also a full size pack has been alot easier to drive for me. Unless u are going to do the 17.5 blinky class.

I don't, but I do recommend the MIP C type cvds. At least thats what I think its called.

I don't personally but I have driven pretty much every other stock buggy at the track and they all have them.

makes a huge difference for stock racing.

if you have the money go for it.

I picked up a used B4.2 and I am getting it ready for the track. I was checking the steering out, and it was acting wonky. I pulled it apart and both sides of the servo link are binding! I tried to remove some material from the inside of those tiny cups but it did not help much.

Any idea how I can fix this? I have a Savox (known for high draw) and an LT4 (known for BEC failure) so I want to make sure the steering is BUTTER. Anyone have any tips?

From personal experience you're going to have some trouble with that ESC and servo set up. I was running the BH LT4 120 and a savox 1258 tg, it was horrible. I never tried an external BEC but even with a cap the truck would constantly glitch on me. Same exact set up with a tekin rs and now a turnigy tracstar, not one problem. Didn't even need the cap with these two ESCs.

Well, I have not had any issues in the past with that combo. Thanks for the heads up though.

Now, anybody have any insight on the steering servo link problem? Can I oil/grease those cups for the time being? Anybody else seen this problem? Since both sides are binding it seems like this would be a common issue.

Should I use the avid thrust bearings too?

Found my problem with the servo link. The previous owner had the links too close together, which was putting too much pressure on the cups. The manual clearly says to keep a 2mm gap there.

Geez dude, this thing is a behemoth! LOL

Look into the MuchMore 30mm Fan. It's Low Profile and runs fast. It's what I run in my 410 under the front driveshaft and it keeps things from overheating quite well. If you prefer a slightly larger fan, they also make slightly larger sizes like 40mm.

If you are using the MIP Pucks then you have to use their thrust. It is designed to fit into the outdrives a certain way.