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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

vw addict 10-14-2013 09:23 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12630428)
Can switch to the B4.2 chassis , will make the car more forgiving & easier for you to drive .


8 mm Chassis # 9657

8mm battery strap # 9638

Already running the +8 from the .1, is it the same?

Captcha 10-14-2013 09:23 AM

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psa7c24383.jpg

New shell from Larry at KustomRCGraphics. Per usual his work is top notch.

Tyler Keel 10-14-2013 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by vw addict (Post 12630543)
Already running the +8 from the .1, is it the same?

VW - Yes they are the same chassis. For running on such a high traction surface such as carpet I would suggest maybe you try something like the ESC centering shelf and the motor centering kit from AVID. Should help your car transition a little quicker, if that is something you are looking for.

You can find both products here:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

TK

Wildcat1971 10-14-2013 09:27 AM

He is wearing them out. I have broken maybe 10 front arms in the last 15 months. Does not seem like a lot, but I drive very cautiously, because i know if I clip a pipe it will break. And they do in my personal experience break way more often with the alum bulkhead. Most of those arms broke during the 2 months I ran the alum bulkhead. When I removed it, breakage went way down. I will say that I hit the wall last weekend and the end of a high speed stright into 90 deg right hand turn. I was mostly sliding sideways, but hit the wall at about 30deg angle and was very surprised my car didnt break. I would not say the arms are retarded easy to break, but way easier than other top brands. That being said, if i dont hit any pipes or wall, they would probably last a long time, lol. Anyway, these days, I am pretty much against any car that is a conversion and I no longer believe in putting a lot of upgrades on a car. Mostly because its expensive and I would rather just buy tires. If I buy a MM car, it will be one that comes as a kit from AE or TLR. And i will only put upgrades that replace extremely weak parts and maybe better diff balls depending. I am done throwing butt loads of cash at cars trying to get 10ths of a second. I am better off buying and running fresh tires. After all, tires are 90% of the setup right?

t0p_sh0tta 10-14-2013 09:31 AM

How are you guys breaking arms? I broke one once by tagging a cinder block at the end of a straight, but I believe that's the only time I've ever broken one.

Wildcat1971 10-14-2013 09:31 AM


Originally Posted by the incubus (Post 12630533)
Well the 44 has been CF Chassis throughout and it's never been a "weak point" or a problem that I know of. In fact I feel it's a huge reason for it's success as one of the best 4WD cars. I run a 410 because for one, I got it on the cheap and because the minimalistic design drew my attention. Luckily it's a great car BUT it is considerably heavier than most other 4WD cars which is why some may find it to be prone to breakage. If the Tresrey CF chassis weren't so ridiculously overpriced, I'd ditch the Aluminum chassis for it in a heartbeat and never look back. Chassis protectors do their job quite well these days and the CF lasts.

While I like the Carbon Composite chassis on the B4 for it's durability, ability to flex slightly and replacement cost, I can't help but wonder how it would improve the car.

Its just a mater of the track. I use chassis protectors and the get shredded. At least on my old track. Running a new track now. At my old track, alum chassis would throw sparks coming of the faces of jumps. The 8th scales guys were saying that the track wore the chassis on their cars pretty quick as well. Yeah, I know the b44 and others have used the CF for a long time. But even they went alum for the sugar worlds because the wear was too high. They probably wanted the added weight also, but in a video I saw, they said the wear on the CF was too high. I also hate CF because it conducts electricity. I used to race TC and had a few packs short out. In fact, did you short on your esc shelf?

Wild Cherry 10-14-2013 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by vw addict (Post 12630543)
Already running the +8 from the .1, is it the same?

My bad, was assuming you had the short chassis .

sorry ...

vw addict 10-14-2013 09:34 AM

Thanks Tyler that motor centering kit looks interesting, but out of stock right now. I suppose it's time to go with the aluminum steering rack too. As far as that shelf goes, can't I just stick the esc to the battery strap? :D

khartlauer 10-14-2013 09:34 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 12630579)
How are you guys breaking arms? I broke one once by tagging a cinder block at the end of a straight, but I believe that's the only time I've ever broken one.

im with him, i run an aluminum bulkhead and i have never broken a front a-arm on my b4.2. thats crazy you keep flying through arms. now that i think of it, i think ive broken maybe one or two parts total since i bought my car in march.

Autocratic 10-14-2013 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12630564)
He is wearing them out. I have broken maybe 10 front arms in the last 15 months. Does not seem like a lot, but I drive very cautiously, because i know if I clip a pipe it will break. And they do in my personal experience break way more often with the alum bulkhead. Most of those arms broke during the 2 months I ran the alum bulkhead. When I removed it, breakage went way down. I will say that I hit the wall last weekend and the end of a high speed stright into 90 deg right hand turn. I was mostly sliding sideways, but hit the wall at about 30deg angle and was very surprised my car didnt break. I would not say the arms are retarded easy to break, but way easier than other top brands. That being said, if i dont hit any pipes or wall, they would probably last a long time, lol. Anyway, these days, I am pretty much against any car that is a conversion and I no longer believe in putting a lot of upgrades on a car. Mostly because its expensive and I would rather just buy tires. If I buy a MM car, it will be one that comes as a kit from AE or TLR. And i will only put upgrades that replace extremely weak parts and maybe better diff balls depending. I am done throwing butt loads of cash at cars trying to get 10ths of a second. I am better off buying and running fresh tires. After all, tires are 90% of the setup right?

I get what you're saying. Stop crashing :p

Tires are very key, and it doesn't really matter what car you have if the tires aren't hooking up. Will make any car frustrating to drive.

The only reason I'm running the front bulkhead is for the weight. When I first got my B4.1 I noticed everyone running added weight in the front, so I decided to buy the bulkhead and not have to worry about weight falling off, etc. So far I've never seen a reason to replace it with stock.

With any car, you're going to have to spend money, and not just on tires. Bearings need replacing, hinge pins bend, holes wear out, gears get noisy, etc. You may not be spending butt-loads, but it does add up. Trust me, I should post a picture of all my spare parts that I've replaced before big races. I have enough parts to build a few cars.

vw addict 10-14-2013 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 12630586)
My bad, was assuming you had the short chassis .

sorry ...

no worries, I think I do.... I'm running a +8 body I'm pretty sure. How can I tell?

Tyler Keel 10-14-2013 09:37 AM


Originally Posted by vw addict (Post 12630589)
Thanks Tyler that motor centering kit looks interesting, but out of stock right now. I suppose it's time to go with the aluminum steering rack too. As far as that shelf goes, can't I just stick the esc to the battery strap? :D

Theoretically, yes. But, you have to take into account that you remove it for battery charging (if your like me I hate charging them in the car). Also, the battery strap is not very wide so you have less of a "footprint" holding the ESC down.

The AVID shelf is also adjustable front to back so you can play with where you want the ESC to sit per your driving style, it may suit you all the way forward rather than all the way back.

As far as the motor centering kit being out of stock, David is really good about getting things back in stock quickly. Wouldn't surprise me if it was back in stock in the next few days.

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions just let me know.

TK

khartlauer 10-14-2013 09:38 AM


Originally Posted by vw addict (Post 12630589)
Thanks Tyler that motor centering kit looks interesting, but out of stock right now. I suppose it's time to go with the aluminum steering rack too. As far as that shelf goes, can't I just stick the esc to the battery strap? :D

the centering kit does wonders...nuff said. and you can make a esc shelf out of an old t-plate too if you dont wanna spend money lol since youre running on turf, id put the esc in the battery tray actually, you dont want that weight so high on that type of track.

khartlauer 10-14-2013 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by vw addict (Post 12630596)
no worries, I think I do.... I'm running a +8 body I'm pretty sure. How can I tell?

there will be a line going across the bottom of the chassis about half way.

Wildcat1971 10-14-2013 09:41 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 12630579)
How are you guys breaking arms? I broke one once by tagging a cinder block at the end of a straight, but I believe that's the only time I've ever broken one.

Mad skills, lol. Or lack there of. Lol, I didnt say I was going slow when I broke them. On, my last layout we had a 90 deg turn, that had jumps at the 90 deg angles. So if you came in fast and close to the pipe, you could jump the corner and gain quite a bit of time. 90% of the time when the b4's tried it and hit the pipe, they broke. Also, a local track here like to put jumps right next to the steel poles and if you miss the poles your rewarded with a pile of bricks, lol. A few weeks ago, I did the double double parts of the jump and it goes right away into a triple. I got a little off center in the double double and when I punched it for the triple, I was a little off and hit the steel pole and off the arm went. Laster that day I was a guy in mod buggy do the same thing, but he caught the pole closer to the inside hinge pin and shattered hit arm, chassis and tower. He hit the pole about 5 feet in the air lol. Your probably thinking, well anyone car would break for that.. Not so, another brand of car did the same thing. Then bounced off, was mashelled and continued on. But.... I suspect his alum chassis might be tweaked, lol. Anyway, I dont think the b4 is unreasonable weak on the arms. But my 8 year breaks a b4 arm almost every time she races it. And her other car has been going strong for 9 months and never broke a front arm. The b4 is fine, but just saying others are more durable for those of us that crash, lol.


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