I assume it is this -ASC9827

It makes a difference from what ive read but there are a lot of other stuff you cant do that makes just as much of an impact in terms acceleration with a 17.5. Avid triad slipper clutch is like half the weight of the stock VTS slipper so that is a HUGE improvement of drive train weight and quicker acceleration. another easy upgrade is a aluminum top shaft, either avid or mip. I run the avid centering kit so i have the longer avid top shaft. while youre replacing the top shaft, pull all the bearings out in the transmission and either replace them all (if you do that, pull off all the seals and clean out the stock grease and put a SMALL amount of bearing oil in them) or clean your existing bearings and leave the seals off. the seals cause resistance and since they are fully enclosed in the trans, you dont have dirt to worry about. the last thing i do is i run a shaved diff gear

this reduces the drive train weight even more and since ive done all these upgrades, my motor temps have significantly dropped and the acceleration has shot through the roof. the 17.5 pucks system im sure will make a big difference but with all this stuff, you dont need it.

That is the correct one. As for the OCRC setup, I have been using this with good luck at OCRC. I have changed to green springs all the way around, Gold Barcodes in the front with 3/4 rear foam, Gold Brocodes in the rear with AKA foam.

Awesome thanks. I also switched to green all around with 32 and 27.5 oil. I wanted to try the gear diff as I think it will be better for me and my driving style.

Hideeho
Do you shave the dif your self or is there some place to buy them? Are the idler & top shaft shaved to match?

I did not shave it myself. I got from a friend of mine who said there's a guy that shaves the diff and idler for like $30. But I'm not exactly sure. The top shaft does not get shaved. You could do it yourself if you have a lathe or know someone who has a lathe. The idler just has the teeth shaved but not the whole thing that way the bearings still sit in it correctly. It made a huge increase in acceleration when I put it in. I love it.

Tried the car after making some changes,electronics in line in the battery tray,gear diff,and avid centering kit...and....let's just say I'm not sold on one of the 3 things I did. Lol. Definitely noticed a difference in the way the car drove. I'm currently running the car with only the lipo ballast weight,I think I might add some to the rear triangles to stabilize the car side to side.And I had the feeling I wouldn't like the gear diff.....but,well I don't dislike it but I think I'm going to slip the ball diff back in to compare,was worried at first being it was new,it was real tight but loosened up towards the end of the day. It never seemed to let me transition from off power to on power out of a turn without unloading the rear end. All in all the car had a ton of steering which I like,a ton of rear traction(almost had to bottom the nut out on the slipper),and jumped flat. Just need to stabilize the car a little better and work"my"little issues with the diff.....

Way cool. I will be shaving gears this week

Matt, is that pretty similar to what you plan on running next weekend at Competition?

Diff needs some attention any way so did this this afternoon

is there any way to shave the gear cheaply

Speedys Racing makes a set of gears already cut. Both gears for 8.95.
http://www.speedysracingparts.com/As...edcutgears.htm

Im sure you could dremel it but thats nowhere near gonna be accurate as a lathe. maybe try to chuck it up to a drill somehow and hold a piece of coarse sandpaper on it and slowly shave it down. just make sure you take off the same amount to both sides. If i were to do it, measure the stock diff gear, take half of that measurement and divide that by two (so effectively 1/4 of the overall width) once you have that, mark each side of the diff gear to that length and slowly shave it away until you hit that mark. it might take awhile but im sure you could do it using that method(without a lathe)

I did it with a dremel, an exacto and some coarse sandpaper. Its definitely not factory but it did the job. Thought i caught the teeth a few time but the mesh sound fine.

thanks for the link I need a rebuild anyways perfect time to do it and 9 bucks that's well worth it.