Hideeho
Check the clearance around the hump inside the hub. I had some issues with that & one of the guys @ the track ended up having to shave .5mm or so. Make sure both washers on the back side, under the nut are fully down around the non-threaded part of the axle. Matt may be an exception, or I may be, I tried 1 shim & it didn't fit right, obviously too much play.

Oke, yes I got both washer fitted correct.

Looks like I was able to solve the problem..
Pulled the axle towards the outside while I tightened the hex. seems like it is fixed now.

I am confused about removing shims fixing it. when you removed the pin, there was no pressure on the bearings. was the extra washer inside causing the something on the inside to rub? Like the nut?

Looking to try these new tapper pistons but I'm not sure what way to go. I'm running a fairly smooth track with a lot of bite. So where do you guys think I should start?

When i put 2 shims per side and the nut tightened down it bound up a little. With just 1 shim there was a slight amount of side to side play but was free.

I am running the 3x1.4 with the Cav setup from Portland http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...Hobby20130519/ and I am really happy.

Yeah I understand the binding matt. He said he took the pin out and ut clicked. wait wait. I forgot the pin does nothing on the jc ones. Any it unimportant. He got it fixed.


Saturday is too far away. Need some racing. Wanna try out the inline in the tray.

I'm getting ready to start my own version of inline.

The superglue on the wing mount screws is working great. Thanks.













...wish it worked for a-arms destroyed by trees. lol, time for wood barriers.

do tell... lol.

A couple Grub screws is all U need ... :)

yeah, the grub screws remove all of the slop in the bearings..... side note, one of my tlr22 alum hubs has slop, meh, lol

cherry ment gub screws in the hubs for the hinge pin. my b4.2 has some slop in the bearings but i dont see a lota consern over it.

Can use a drop of blue lock tight & even bearing will be tight .

5mm was good for several reasons, some for engineering and some for manufacturing. The scale test shows that a standard car is left-rear heavy which makes it very difficult to get the front tires balances as well. You don't actually want the motor centerline on the car centerline because there is also the weight of the motorplate, topshaft, slipper, gear cover, gears all on the right. The goal is balance, and to get the motor as far close to center without upsetting left right balance front and rear. We ended up finding that it was 4-5mm depending on the motor weight but we went 5mm.