I think the bulk head is only for their arms though. just like the sc10

I'm game to try them, especially if they act as they claim about slop and my kids can run a pretty bulletproof b4 at that point (RPM wide bumper, RPM front a-arms.)

Yep mine too. Put them on their T's and rock solid. Will get a few sets from LHS when they break their B4s.

OMG i saw it a few seconds ago, you can't imagine how happy i am now to not having bought the 22

Believe the shelf lets the car feel more connected .
Car is more reactive and agile.
Steering becomes even or same in both directions ..


Using a shorty with the 40 gr ballast offers awesome balance as you found and the grip is just great ..

Did a test run last night with my Vision-Racing steering rack .
Mounted the stud in the most forward location . The steering is smoother this way then stock and looking forward to tonight's club race .

Is this with a top shelf or without? I'm about to mount my ESC down in the battery tray with a shorty in front of it, so I'm trying to picture what you're describing. Is the shorty all the way forward, or with some padding? And where did you put the ballast?

Sorry, brand new to buggies, so trying to absorb the hive knowledge.

WC, have you tried running it in the batt. tray? I tried the shelf once but it made the car feel a bit lazy sort of took the twitch out of it. Maybe the shelf with a combination of other changes would have felt better but I only did the shelf by itself and then quickly removed it.

I run it in the tray now and it feels money. But I did make a combination of changes after putting the esc in the tray. Wondering if the shelf feels similiar or not.

I'm considering trying out the esc in the battery tray and was wondering what setup changes you made to make the suspension work?

chevmaro

have a team mate running all down low & centered & drives his all the time .


Don't agree with your assessment however , the shelf makes the car roll more , this helps the feel & responsiveness...

Down low is smoother less roll but feels more numb , not as reactive but smoother in the corner steering...

Both perform great , side with the down low & centered on very high traction conditions.
Side with using the shelf on normal or med traction, shelf allows any size pack to fit so you can use either battery size...

Stiffer rear spring, raised inner rear ballstud, removed chassis weight.

I have been taking my car out of town with me when I travel for work. I hit up the local tracks and it drives just as well as on my home track. I change hubs, shock oil, tires but nothing major. I really like this car.

I really want to try a set of the avid 2+2 pistons next.

check out my build vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHBEQ7gWYMw

Ok, I tried to find this info but after reading 100+ pages my eyes hurt, so I am going to ask away. What servo would you guys recommend for the B4.2? I would also like to use the same servo in my T4.2 - never gone without a servo saver before and I want to make sure I get something that will last. I have been looking at the Futaba S9452, the XP servos (don't they have a plastic gear??), the Airtronics 94770 & 94774, and the Spektrum S6030 & S6040. Would any of those work well in the B4.2/T4.2??

Cant go wrong with Futaba ..yes they have plastic gears.but your gonna use them in 10th scale I've never had one issue with Futaba ....

Yeah, Im partial to Futaba - had a Futaba servo in every 1/10 car I have ever owned, going back to my gold pan RC10. I currently have the S5030 digital metal-gear servo in my FT T4.1. It has been through some hard landings and crashes and still works like new after two years of consistent use. It's rated at 90oz-in at 6 volts, so I thought I would need something more robust to use without a servo saver. I was looking very closely at the S9452, it's rated at 128oz-in at 6 volts - is that enough torque? It also has a coreless motor, ball bearings and metal gears.