Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Picked up 2 of the Diff Bolts & T Nuts.

Will break it down tonight and figure out what I did wrong

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Jake's car looks fine. It probably looks better than most on here.

bambambennett

I have a really good setup for Coyote, now if I could only drive worth a crap!LOL! ok, here goes:
Rear tires...Pink Losi BK Bars and AKA red foam, sometimes Proline open cell, some guys run JC Barcodes(V1,gold) or Brocodes(gold), gonna try some new AKA clay Handlebars this weekend
Front tires... I race with a special set made from pink BK Bars cut down for the front but Proline Suburbs(clay compound) work almost as well and is the front tire choice for the masses, next would be Gold Barcodes and I only use open cell foams up front
Front shock setup... 32.5 with a 1.6 flat is what most run, I run 4x1.3 tapered pistons with 42.5 and AE black springs, I am also running the Ghea brass bulkhead, I have a set I am gonna test with 3x1.4 taper pistons too.
Rear shock setup... 30 with a 1.6 flat is standard but of course I run something different, 37.5 with a 4x1.3 tapered piston and green AE spring, also gonna test the 3x1.4's on the rear too and mix and match to see if I can get it better, however the track is getting changed Sunday night so I might wait. Next time you go, come by and check out the saddlepack B4 I built, it works awesome!

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

just lawl.

dennis_offroad

here's how i did my inline electronics. i mounted the esc on the chassis and the receiver on the battery hold down bracket. so far i like it.
its not the cleanest install, but it works for now to see how it performs. i figured id share to give others ideas on how to go about it.



i'll be at coyote this weekend as well... it will be my first time there. track looks awesome from the pictures ive seen.

one question... for those who have mounted their transponder by the servo... how well does it fit? i just got a hybrid and will be installing it there most likely

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
Looks good, but you have got to do something with that sensor wire! That's just begging to get ripped out.

dennis_offroad

thanks.
yeah, i forgot to mention that was taken pre-finishing touches haha.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

got a brace from someone at the track today... i really like how the car drove with the esc on the shelf...



--really was hard not to just throw a pile of wires ontop if it for the picture.

was running well in the main till my on/off switch decided it liked off better, it has since been relocated..

also changed the orientation of the weight from first placement, most likely it was just my head how it changed how it felt....

car felt loose towards the end of the day, could be the track dried out more then my tires liked, or that my handlebars hit the limit after nearly 3 months.

the esc there seems like the car changes directions smoother, and feels like i gained mid to exit steering... with battery back more (full pad front) the car changed direction excessively quick imho, so half pad in the front felt the best to me... sadly looks like cav's current layout.... dont even live on the right coast to have seen that in time hah.

Kellen Guthrie

iTrader: (2)

Caster block, front arms, bulkhead, and ballcups.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

Got it sorted.

In my sleep deprived state I put the Diff Bolt into the wrong out drive.



Oh well got it sorted for like $5 for a new diff bolt so all is well.

Now just to paint the body.... Ill post pics of my wiring setup later... its horrid HAHA!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

told ya

mingoglia

iTrader: (3)

Been there, done that.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

A pot of coffee and Ron Burgandy would have helped you in that situation...

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

For a clean soldering job you want to have something to hold the leads for you as you heat up the solder joints and as well maintain their position until they solidify. Also you must tin the wire properly (see below if you're not sure how to properly do so) to ensure the connection is secure. Use an iron that is 60 watt or higher as it will require less time to melt the solder on both the exposed lead and the solder point. What I do is heat them both simultaneously so that my tip is on the solder point and the wire on top of my iron's tip and then I slide the iron off and bring down my lead and apply another it of heat to ensure it's as liquified as possible and then hold until it solidifies.


Proper Tinning

Most people do not know how to properly tin wire and they simply fill their tip with solder and then proceed to try and transfer as much of it onto the wire. That's not correct. What you want to do is hold the exposed lead onto the soldering tip and then feed solder onto and then into the wire. the best way to achieve this is to begin applying the solder just under the sides of the wire and once it melts and the rosin begins to sizzle, slide the solder over the top and allow the wire to absorb just enough of it so it's coated. Now, here's another mistake people make. Although it looks thoroughly tinned, turning the wire over will will reveal that the solder did not make it's way all the way through so you need to do the same on this side as well. Again, just enough to coat the lead. Once this is done you can then proceed to mate it with the solder point and do as I described above.


Thanks to Mr. Williams (wherever you are), for teaching me so much in your class. Electrical Engineering was one of the most fun classes in high school! Somewhere out here in the world your world's smallest violin and record player are still playin' My Heart Cries For Ya! and don't worry, I'll Dock 'em for you too!!! LOLOL

Rick442

At what spots on the chassis are you taking ride height measurements ?