Bowtie rears for consistant grip on and off groove, 25 deg. Casters with link one hole out, inside link hole on front tower with .030 under stud. That should keep the push out of the turn in.

I mainly only ever change tires. Once I get the setup right, I just change tires. Some people also use traction compounds as needed. I race outdoors and the track changes from round to round. Even then a tire change is rarely needed. When I race indoors, the dampness of the clay can dramatically change traction. In that case, a tire change is normally needed. At most, I will remove or add a roll center washer. My b4 is pretty consistent. Now that I zeroing in on a shock package I like, I should just be able to work on driving now.

First and foremost... TIRES!!! When it gets dry you'll need more pin and on certain indoor clay a change in compound might be necessary. It's very common to go from using "example" JC gold all winter, scrubbed in to half pin barcodes. When it starts to dry and more and more dust comes up, you'll need slightly more pin, so new tires that are just broken in OR it's very common to switch to the green compound.

I love these conditions because it separates the real drivers from the "traction heroes"

So, if you're still on the same tires you were when the track is moist... You're going to be very hurting. Tires are the most important factor in indoor racing.

Now, as far as chassis tweaks: dropping 2.5 weight oil all around can help. Add a tad bit of ride height/ .5mm to 1mm at most.

Try the 3.5 toe block, especially if you're using a shorty.

I cannot stress the tire issue enough!!! I take a huge bag of tires to the track every week for a reason!!

You said it. And I admit I AM A TRACTION HERO! Lol. I always play with tires havent changed much on my buggy in a couple months. Maybe it is time for a green compound I have been running gold barcodes all winter. Last night I tried MC ION's, MC Burbs and what I found to work the best is MC Burb Open cell that were ran bald. I really didnt think a bald tire would work better but it could have been all my other tires having closed cell.

Aside from tires I moved my hubs forward and it got me halfway there. I could change back to plastic rear arms currently running 44's. I usually always get my buggy running the way I want but it probably takes me longer then the other guys because often I dont get a chance to practice and just make small adjustments in between rounds.

as a side question on tires, what do you guys consider "ghosted?" I got a large lot of clay compound tires I am going to list, pin style but most with closed cell inserts, I am just unsure what to list some as since I don't run in conditions where this term really applies. Here, if ghosted on the loose stuff they are done lol but it sounds like they can still have benefits at other tracks?

Chevmaro, was Robbie not their? You have one of the fastest drivers in the world that does not get paid to race. Ask him for some help. That said, I always liked slicks in Jconcepts blue when the conditions got like that at IRCR. You have to be able to stay in the groove though.

won't know what spur I have until its in hand, track is an outdoor mid-sized (big enough for 1/8, but still manageable for 1/10) tire of choice is SS AKA Impacts

My b4.2's showed up today and they are 90% done in a little over 4 hours (10yr old didnt help much :) I installed gear diffs instead of the ball diffs and the tranny is really tight to turn by hand, my SC10's are easy. Is it just because they are new do ya think? The actual diff is smooth but when I try to spin the spur its very firm to turn.

And AE forgot to thread one of my rear axles so now I wait again. My SC10.2's are conversions and I havent changed them to cvd's yet so no spares.

Make sure 1. The bearings are seated all the way on both diff case halves 2. the screws holding the cases together aren't too tight.

why a gear diff? are you running on very high traction?

Probably for the lack of/reduced maintenance factor the Gear Diff offers, plus it'll handle what the youngsters throw at them :lol:

Woot! I'd love to know what "ghosted" tires are too!! :nod:

Ghosted slicks are bar-type tires that are ground down in the center until the pins barely remain, but leaving the side tread alone. Good for a high bite blue groove track with a little bit of dust in the corners. massive forward traction while maintaining side bite in the dusty sections. Can't say I've come across a reason to use a 'ghosted' pin style tire, though. :sweat:

Now don't take this as gospel! I haven't been racing offroad for more than a couple months... :lol: But I know that at my local track (indoor clay) slicks are very popular! I believe ghosted refers to tires (such as barcodes) that are ground down to a slick, or almost slick, with almost no tread left. So you can still see there were pins there, but cant really feel them to the touch. It came from an originally treaded tire, not a purpose built slick, like offered by panther. Can anyone confirm this please?

I have had to change from clay compound to soft or super soft compounds. I am liking 3Ds and Gridirons. Was liking suburbs in Clay but not so much with other compounds.