Greg Hodapp won the 2005 Roar Nats in 4wd with an X-5....not 2wd, but they still got a national championship.

I knew that already... Was just curious as to what he was talking about since this is a 2wd thread and winning in 4whl has no bearing on the mid motor discussion. ;)

The thrust balls are just plain steel right? Not carbide? I know the diff balls are carbide, because the thrust balls are soo cheap, i assume they are just regular nothing special steel. I am thinking about trying out casper's caged thrust bearing. Has anyone tried it.

Well I have half an ounce in front of the servo, cant really remember what you said to run in the rear shocks, ok it was 30, yeah thats what I have in my rears then. 32.5 in the front then also. Ok, will go back to zero toe in the front. Maybe add a half ounce in the front to try.

I installed the Casper caged thrust recently and put about four packs through the diff this weekend. Very nice stuff. Probably going to run them in every AE ball diff from now on. The washers have grooved races already, so there is significantly more surface area for the ceramic balls to grip, which should keep them from slipping at all.

So far they're good. Diff is still a little tighter than I normally use, but it's very smooth even so. The real test is going to be in the 44.2, which I've been having issues with the thrust on both ends turning into rocks after a few packs.

great, Another big plus is not having to loose those tiny balls when you clean and relube the diff, lol. I have been running steel thrust and ceramic diff balls, but thinking about trying ceramic thrust and carbide balls.

What do you guys do with our receiver attenae wire in your B4.2? I'd rather not use the plastic attenae post but I'm not sure where to put the loose attenae wire inside the chassis area.

Thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks.

I coil mine up, slide a piece of shrink wrap over it and hit it with a little heat in the center to give it an hour glass shape. This keeps it contained, but does not pinch the coils. Does that make sense? I gently apply heat with my heat gun, so I dont melt any of the antenna. once, you have it in the shrink wrap you can use a little servo tape or shoe goo on the shrink wrap and attach it to the chassis.

I just cut about a 1/2" piece of tubing, put it in place where it goes so I didn't have to punch a hole in the body. Then I coiled up the wire around the receiver. Works great!

Yeah, I think it makes sense. But is there anyway you can post a quick picture of your set up?

Thanks Wildcat!

How long is your wire? I just hit the tube with a heat gun and put a bend in it. No hole in the body, it stays underneath...

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psd5826951.jpg

found one. I actually sold this receiver and black shrink wrap would look a lot better, but here is one I did. On this one, I left a little bit of wire between the receiver and the coil. This let me servo tape it to the side of the receiver case. If you like to velcro your receivers in so you can swap them between cars, this works very nice because you dont need to mess with the antenna. Just pull out the servo and esc connector and swap it in 1 minute.

http://imageshack.us/a/img854/7167/94524.jpg

Antenna
 

+1^ Run mine the same way, Works like a champ!:nod:

Btw, I have never noticed glitching or range issues when racing. However I dont run my buggy until I cant see it either. I race an a large outdoor track with no issues.

You may have to zoom in to see it, but I cut thin strips of heavy duty velcro and stick them to the sides of the receiver. Then I just route the antenna wire through it, wrapping around the receiver. All our cars are like this now without any issues.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1-15_910-1.jpg