MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The only springs I've ever used are the kit blue fronts and XL blue rears. I carry the Yellow fronts but they sit in my box unused as I've never needed them yet.
Also unused in my toolbox is almost every other spare part I've bought for the car. With the exception of a couple ball cups, I have not broken any of items you would normally think of to break. Knock on wood but no arms, no hubs, nothing "normal." My breakage, on a car I've raced since July of 2013 has been limited to the aforementioned ballcups, a MM gearbox case from a hard/flat landing on carpet and an upper front chassis brace when someone headed the wrong way down the track. That's it. I'm glad I carry arms, etc. but I can't really give you a list of what you absolutely need. Pick the spares that will make you comfortable to push the car hard from the get-go and then hope your experience will be as good as mine.

Nard Cox

iTrader: (1)

Me and some friends had a race day yesterday. It wasn't a race like we normally have; some qualis, some finals and all rounds last for 6 to 8 minutes, no sir.

Yesterday we raced a 12 hour race. What does this mean? It means you take a single car, a but load of shorty's and you start racing at 11:00 and you don't stop untill it's 23:00. So despite bucket loads of rain we continued racing the car non-stop. All this took place on a astroturf track in Belgium at ORRA.

We freshly build the diff with 5k and the shocks (no idea on the exact weight or springs and piston). Put in a Speedpassion ESC and SP 10.5 turns motor. Used Sanwa MT-4 and a Sanwa stick (no idea which one). Had a few option parts in it and some custom parts from RCCSS. Checked the car and started racing. Carnage during the 12 hours of non stop racing you wonder: 1 wing spacer got lost (C2-001WM) and 1 ball cup broke (BM-206). The Yoke held up wonderfully and this was a real test and showcase of it's durability. Thanks to that we came in third (badboys) with 1193 raced laps.







Some more pictures:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/darksu...7646700820658/

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

To answer my own question, the hardened parts are not just hardened plastic to the point of where screws are difficult to thread in, in the case of the gearbox, there are additional reinforcing ribs in the mold and that thing is beefy! They do perceptibly stiffen the back of the car when using the plastic chassis, the car even seemed quieter with the new gearbox case and I raced with them for the first time yesterday.

For the bad news, do not use them when using the plastic chassis! While racing yesterday, I made one practice run, TQ'd the first round of qualifiers and about three laps into the second, snapped the plastic chassis straight and all the way across the rear under the motor on an otherwise clean jump landing. It had no signs of stress and the only variable was those parts. The plastic chassis is to too thin to be braced that firmly from above.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Mark- You thinking it is more for the Alum chassis then? Sorry to hear about your chassis issue. The buggy sounded fast before it broke too…..

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Yeah, my conclusion is they're parts for the alum chassis. I wanted to try the gearbox case because that was one of the only things I ever broke previously (cracked on the the bottom while running carpet) and I recognized beforehand that the rear end on the plastic chassis appeared to flex as a unit and the harder parts changed that but I went ahead and ran it anyway and found the weak point.

I'm thinking about leaving them on and trying the v2 half-alum chassis for Thursday night racing this week just for research.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

damn. do you have any pictures of the damage?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I actually just took a pic because someone asked me by pm how I configured the weight as noted on the setup sheet and that becomes much clearer with everything off the chassis so here it is. That's 40g around a shorty pack and one big break.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

that's one for the record mark. weird

any difference in how tight you tightened the screws down in that area?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I did think about that because I'm always telling people not to overtighten but if anything, the screws are so firm going into the new hard plastic, I'm certain I stopped short of overtightened and the actual break is closer to the forward rear suspension mount which was not removed or changed with the gearbox/rear brace mount.

I'm going to run the v2 chassis this week because I want to experiment with a cut "waterfall" brace on the alum platform and if I bend that chassis in the process, I don't care, but after that, it'll be back to the plastic chassis and the soft gearbox/brace.

littlevette

iTrader: (22)

honestly i think it probably has more to do with the chassis, as you pointed out. that area does get stressed over time with all the jumps and twisting. your final jump with that chassis was probably more of a lucky freak shot/slap that tore you rear end apart.

neallewis

The "hard" gearbox casing offers reinforcement around the top layshaft bearings, which reduces movement and stress on the layshaft. This stops the excessive wear seen to layshaft, bearings, and vastly improves life of idler gears. The mesh of the layshaft to idler is improved, hence the quieter car.
It's a really good upgrade from the original. New kits come with the hard case in the box.

I perceive no additional stiffness to the rear end between the original and the hard case, and I had a bloody good look at the time I got mine.

I've run one without issue for ages on my plastic chassis car. I suspect you're looking to place the blame on a component for breaking your chassis, rather than yourself or your driving.

neallewis

Have you been running this on the plastic chassis perchance?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I ran both the case and 118MRH brace which Yokomo's own product description says, "These parts are molded from a harder compound material that helps to increase chassis rigidity"

No, that would be too flexible. It's something I haven't tried before on the Yoke at all but want to see if it can make the alum chassis a bit more forgiving.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

I see the Jconcepts new Silencer body for the Yok is in stock. Anyone run one yet? Looks like a great body.

David Lim

Dear Friends,

Has anyone tested the latest released of Yokomo BMAX2 MR "Silencer" body from JConcept? If yes, appreciate for some feedbacks.....

Secondly, i am running rear motor setup on my BMAX2 MR. Does the body outline fits well on the RM setup. Logically it should, but just wanted to 100% ensure before i order it.

Thank you!

Regards,
David Lim