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Old 09-17-2013, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by XRated SCT
get the torque, I'm using radiopost green which is a mix of torque and speed and I like it, it'll be better on hv, I ran a speed servo in my first 4x4 sct and it was good enough but I like the mix better of both
Is there such a thing as too fast of a servo? What bodies are people using and having great success?
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by honda237
Just out of curiosity, would I have any interest from people if I parted out a couple brand new tekno kits? First would be my sct410, then maybe a eb48.2
a guy on ebay "mikeysrcshop" i believe used to do this with alot of success but he does a bunch and they are auctioned at no reserve but customers can get great deals and he definitely makes his money back. i.e. i got all cvds for $3 and full front suspension for $40 and a rear diff for $35 which compared to retail is awesome but he buys it as kits at parts out as groups, i think hes doing the eb48.2 now.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Is there such a thing as too fast of a servo? What bodies are people using and having great success?
TLR hi flow body and JC Ford f250 but you will hear a couple others, just search the thread for "bodies."

Which brings to mind, I am not one to complain about redundant questions because I do not expect people to read 900+ pages considering I have never read a full book and i have an ivy league ed.(i know sad, i just read the "need to know" chapters, efficiency= intelligent laziness) but can we add to the first page the top 3 bodies and top 3 immediate upgrade parts i.e. aluminum hexes, metal servo horn, HD arms? JC Ford F250, TLR hiflow, etc...
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:41 AM
  #14764  
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Is there such a thing as too fast of a servo? What bodies are people using and having great success?
So far, for me personally, I've had the most luck with the JConcepts Nissan Titan Hi Flow. It jumps consistently, it's very durable, and the performance on the track has been the absolute best by far.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:01 AM
  #14765  
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Originally Posted by T. Herwig
So far, for me personally, I've had the most luck with the JConcepts Nissan Titan Hi Flow. It jumps consistently, it's very durable, and the performance on the track has been the absolute best by far.
Yea I have all 3, JC Ford f250, chevy, and nissan. They all work great just don't cut out the hood vents especially if you still have a little nose down effect. I love the idea of that Armada body, wish they did a Tahoe though, buy American!
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
Thought so ! I race with nitro neil and he had that truck hooked up at the local track .....
Yup. I changed a few things to my liking as far as setup goes, have a vid out there of my daughter in her main and she had it going well for her first ever race and first time driving the car. The body was in much better shape than he let on, was quite happy with the purchase.

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Just a couple of random questions... Which pistons seem to be the best for the truck now? I know I've seen it but can't remember..

Also, an indoor off road carpet track just opened near me. I told myself I wouldn't race carpet but it's closer than any other track in my area. Does anyone have any recommendations on a set-up and especially tires to run?

Thanks in advance!
For me, I am still likely the 1.3mm x 8 hole pistons (kyosho here) as a nice balance between pack and rough track handling.

For carpet, look into some schumacher yellow mini-pins or similar tire.

I was using I believe 3.5 degree rear toe in, and had either 7-7-3 or 7-10-3 for diffs. I'll see if I got that setup sheet somewhere. You will want heavier sway bars too. For springs, I think I was using HB greys up front and Greys in the rear.

Originally Posted by Graham11
Yea I have all 3, JC Ford f250, chevy, and nissan. They all work great just don't cut out the hood vents especially if you still have a little nose down effect. I love the idea of that Armada body, wish they did a Tahoe though, buy American!
Can you elaborate on what you were seeing with the nissan and hood vents being cut if you don't a nose down effect?
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:40 AM
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Going to be posting a setup sheet from last weekend sometime this week. Truck was great this weekend @ the 2013 Race Against Cancer and was sitting in 3rd in the A-Main in a field of almost 70 4WD SCT trucks when an RX8 gave the infamous small poof of smoke.

I received comments all weekend long from various racers on how smooth the vehicle looked and how amazing the suspension performed and it really translated to how it felt on the track. It was absolutely glued.

This was on a Dry, Black Groove, Medium Size outdoor track.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Yup. I changed a few things to my liking as far as setup goes, have a vid out there of my daughter in her main and she had it going well for her first ever race and first time driving the car. The body was in much better shape than he let on, was quite happy with the purchase.



For me, I am still likely the 1.3mm x 8 hole pistons (kyosho here) as a nice balance between pack and rough track handling.

For carpet, look into some schumacher yellow mini-pins or similar tire.

I was using I believe 3.5 degree rear toe in, and had either 7-7-3 or 7-10-3 for diffs. I'll see if I got that setup sheet somewhere. You will want heavier sway bars too. For springs, I think I was using HB greys up front and Greys in the rear.



Can you elaborate on what you were seeing with the nissan and hood vents being cut if you don't a nose down effect?
I dont understand the last part of your question. But if you cut out the hood vents the spoiler effect pulls the nose down more, they are designed to vent air but to also give more down force.

Not cutting out not only voids this but also will help keep the nose up with a little parachuting effect. On the F250 I did cut out the 2 vents over the wheel wells but the center vents are all angled to act like a wing a create down force.

Edit: I wish RCtech had a doodler tool so I could draw things, so much easier to visualize it with a picture.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Graham11
TLR hi flow body and JC Ford f250 but you will hear a couple others, just search the thread for "bodies."

Which brings to mind, I am not one to complain about redundant questions because I do not expect people to read 900+ pages considering I have never read a full book and i have an ivy league ed.(i know sad, i just read the "need to know" chapters, efficiency= intelligent laziness) but can we add to the first page the top 3 bodies and top 3 immediate upgrade parts i.e. aluminum hexes, metal servo horn, HD arms? JC Ford F250, TLR hiflow, etc...
With regards to redundancy...Everything is on the first page however nothing on there says "Must Have." If it was a must have I guess Tekno would have included these parts with the kit. Now that I have the bugs worked out I can honestly say.....Alum. Hex, Proline F11 wheels and the aluminum servo is a must have. Sure the other stuff may last for a month or two but that's not what I consider long lasting or durable.

As for the body, I have finally settled in on the Chevy. Not the greatest looking truck but it doesn't provide down force on the front and it provides for clearance with the front tires. Not sure if it's an issue for anyone but it seems like all the other bodies would for sure rub in the front tires under compression while at the same time attempting to turn. Run the test yourselves tonight. That's not a risk I am willing to take. The Chevy provides complete clearance.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Victory
With regards to redundancy...Everything is on the first page however nothing on there says "Must Have." If it was a must have I guess Tekno would have included these parts with the kit. Now that I have the bugs worked out I can honestly say.....Alum. Hex, Proline F11 wheels and the aluminum servo is a must have. Sure the other stuff may last for a month or two but that's not what I consider long lasting or durable.

As for the body, I have finally settled in on the Chevy. Not the greatest looking truck but it doesn't provide down force on the front and it provides for clearance with the front tires. Not sure if it's an issue for anyone but it seems like all the other bodies would for sure rub in the front tires under compression while at the same time attempting to turn. Run the test yourselves tonight. That's not a risk I am willing to take. The Chevy provides complete clearance.
yes, everything is on the first page but not in short to the point format, like an FAQ so when new guy asks, we can just say check out the FAQ. and I agree and didnt say they were must haves, I said "immediate upgrades" as in if you want to buy an upgrade right away what would they be, there are no "must haves" as the truck is great out of the box.

And I agree, love my JC chevy body and actually like the look of the beefy fenders, I think the f250 is weirdly long looking and I dont like that the fender flare is the length of the body, unfortunately Spaz Stix chrome sucks 50% of the time so my chevy now looks like crap. FYI do not use SS Chrome on large areas especially on short course bodies.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Graham11
I dont understand the last part of your question. But if you cut out the hood vents the spoiler effect pulls the nose down more, they are designed to vent air but to also give more down force.

Not cutting out not only voids this but also will help keep the nose up with a little parachuting effect. On the F250 I did cut out the 2 vents over the wheel wells but the center vents are all angled to act like a wing a create down force.

Edit: I wish RCtech had a doodler tool so I could draw things, so much easier to visualize it with a picture.
Sorry what I meant was what was it your saw if you:

- Had Nissan Body
- Cut out the front holes
- Did NOT have the nose down effect

I don't have the nose down effect now with my current Swiss-cheese flotek that has venting in the hood, was curious if there was something to watch for on the Nissan body.

I think you answered my question though, basically don't cut the hood vents to help keep the body more nose up.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:11 AM
  #14772  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Sorry what I meant was what was it your saw if you:

- Had Nissan Body
- Cut out the front holes
- Did NOT have the nose down effect

I don't have the nose down effect now with my current Swiss-cheese flotek that has venting in the hood, was curious if there was something to watch for on the Nissan body.

I think you answered my question though, basically don't cut the hood vents to help keep the body more nose up.
If you don't have the nose down problem then maybe you are ok with cutting it out but I would try without first, you can always cut them out later.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:22 AM
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Here are some pics of the latest body I painted for my SCT410 ....... Its the FTW Diamondback .......


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Old 09-17-2013, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Is there such a thing as too fast of a servo? What bodies are people using and having great success?
I use to think so, but now I'm running a Savox SB-2271SG (.065/277.7 @7.4v) and can't believe I didn't switch to a faster servo sooner.

I have tried tons of bodies, at the moment my favorite is the new JC Hi-Flo light weight body. It jumps great and I haven't cut a single hole yet.

A side shot before taking the window masking and over spray off


The Tekno twins together.
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:24 AM
  #14775  
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Originally Posted by Mullet1
3 or 4 mm reamer for the arms?
4mm reamer.
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