17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
06-05-2014, 07:13 AM
there is no possibility to make caster blocks, do not own the technology, if mastered, then there will be a caster blocks for all models
I do not understand how you manage to model Hobiving 4000 kV and 18 pinion? I used ESC Speed Passion Reventon Pro1.1 140A, I used 16 pinion and it was uncomfortable and quickly moved on to 14 pinion now very correct speed and the desired acceleration and the engine less heated
I do not understand how you manage to model Hobiving 4000 kV and 18 pinion? I used ESC Speed Passion Reventon Pro1.1 140A, I used 16 pinion and it was uncomfortable and quickly moved on to 14 pinion now very correct speed and the desired acceleration and the engine less heated
06-05-2014, 08:04 AM
06-05-2014, 08:16 AM
Good to know, didn't realize the XT arms were different, I thought they were interchangeable.
Kind of, the pro4 hd is a 550 can which in turn produces more torque, so a little different but still the same idea. In my sc10.2 I can run a 21T pinions with my 3800kv 4 pole castle motor, but with my smc 8.5t, I had to drop down to a 19t.
You don't see high kv motors for 1/8 vehicles because they need the torque to get moving, plus it's easier on the electronics to run higher voltage batteries. Like a lot of people said, 3s or 4s with lower kv motors would be better for 4x4 sct just because they are so heavy, basically they are a 1/8 buggy
You don't see high kv motors for 1/8 vehicles because they need the torque to get moving, plus it's easier on the electronics to run higher voltage batteries. Like a lot of people said, 3s or 4s with lower kv motors would be better for 4x4 sct just because they are so heavy, basically they are a 1/8 buggy
06-05-2014, 08:23 AM
Not the lower Kv, but the longer rotor adds quite a bit of torque as well. It has a longer magnetic field.
06-05-2014, 06:31 PM
I'm sorry I have good news for ya, after double checking mine it also has a bow in it. Probably a good 2 to 3mm. Really sorry about that. But I'm glad it's ok. And mine has only been to the track like 4 times with no hard crashes so your all good man.
06-05-2014, 06:49 PM
After really checking AND swapping everything over I felt like the chassis was ok.. Anyway it needed a good cleaning anyway and I did find a couple of issues I fixed so all's well that ends well
Now I get to figure out why with the 8x1.4's in the rear it started nose diving.
06-05-2014, 07:05 PM
Tech Apprentice
Finally my 410 is finished. Just need to trim and mount the body.
With any luck first run will be tomorrow.
With any luck first run will be tomorrow.
06-05-2014, 07:49 PM
06-05-2014, 07:55 PM
Lol... I'll send you a bill
After really checking AND swapping everything over I felt like the chassis was ok.. Anyway it needed a good cleaning anyway and I did find a couple of issues I fixed so all's well that ends well
Now I get to figure out why with the 8x1.4's in the rear it started nose diving.
After really checking AND swapping everything over I felt like the chassis was ok.. Anyway it needed a good cleaning anyway and I did find a couple of issues I fixed so all's well that ends well
Now I get to figure out why with the 8x1.4's in the rear it started nose diving.
06-05-2014, 08:48 PM
I finally got the whole shock rebound thing figured out and working, with the aluminum vented caps. Fill the shock body then set the shaft at the amount of rebound you want. Then put the bladder inside the cap and make sure oil bleeds out the vent when screwing it on. Now we all know that, but when you compress the shock and have no rebound it's because there is a leak somewhere. So I rebuilt the lower cartridge making sure to use a decent amount of green slime and replaced both o rings on the shock body. Also, when I took the top o ring off I put it inside the shock cap before putting the bladder in it. I also have the aftermarket shock tools and was using them to tighten the cap and lower cap, you don't want to do that just hand tighten them as much as possible. I think that's another reason they weren't sealing correctly. Hope this helps I know I wasn't the only one having this problem.
06-05-2014, 08:50 PM
I started with the Fioroni pistons but now I'm trying the 8x1.4's in the rear and 8x1.3's in the front. Doesn't seem any worst or different. I do need to stay on the throttle over jumps to keep it flat which is new to me compared to 2wd, this is my first 4wd and I think from what I hear that's kinda the norm. I'm trying those pistons with black in front pink in rear. 35 weight front 32.5 rear tomorrow, I will let you know how it is.
Will let you know what happens on Sunday.
06-05-2014, 08:51 PM
Going to practice at indy rc world tomorrow. It's the biggest indoor track in Texas, the track looks awesome. Check it out at indyrcworld.com on Fridays they have open practice from 11am till 10pm can't wait to check it out.
06-06-2014, 04:33 AM
I just changed back to the 10x1.3's all the way around. The truck always flew flat when they were in. I did change oil and springs, I went green all the way around and 32.5 front/27.5 rear. I was trying to get the truck plush and went the wrong way with the 8 holes. They provide more pack then the 10 holes and thats not what I was looking for. The 8 holes work great in my EB48 but that makes sense due to it being heavier.
Will let you know what happens on Sunday.
Will let you know what happens on Sunday.
You have to be careful, easy mistake to make. Can't always go by hole count. You're looking for total surface area of the holes. I suspect there is some fluid dynamics to consider, but a good indication of what direction to go. Here is a nice matrix borrowed from the first page. I reference this all the time or do the simple math if I'm at the track.
06-06-2014, 05:56 AM
Are there shock caps that are made by Losi or Associated that will work with this truck?
06-06-2014, 07:22 AM
