i had a c/f driveshaft that i put in a 4x4 slash,integy if i remember correctly, waste of money. that thing lasted two battery packs and shredded...some things need to be made out of metal...
also i just got my order from smc, two 7200 packs and some pins for the power wires. great service. can't wait to try them out.

The fact it was integy could be the problem, not saying for sure it'll hold up but it's possible and it would be a good addition for a weight loss

I gladly paid $119.99 for my Ridgid 12V impact driver to replace that $35.00 dollar Ryobi when the battery stopped charging. The Ryobi is next to useless for anything other then most of my RC uses. I say most because it couldn't handle every screw in my truck with its wimpy power. The Rigid can more then handle RC and 90% of household uses then go back to RC all on the same charge. Best part is the lifetime warrenty. I'll never have to buy another one again (and that includes the batteries). Best power tools you can buy IMO.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12...237K/203371433

There have been a few here that have built a lightweight410, I think Shark's one of them. Don't remember his opinion.
Generally the heavy build would benefit outdoor and indoor its preference I guess. I would think their findings are the stock weight is more stable and planted and the lightweight build is more responsive and agile for a tight track.

Hopefully someone who built a lightweight will post their findings for you.

My wife got me the green hitachi for my b-day. It is my favorite if all of them that I have seen. Not too expensive either. I love it

this is what i use! My ryobi wouldn't last! No balls! running 2 sc trucks and 2 1/8 vehicles
you will need the power and battery life! also has battery indicator on unit! Light weight
2 pounds and comes with 2 batteries!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1006150...6#.Uh5D_hu1HLc

+1
I use this and love it. Charger also finishes a dead pack in about 30 minutes.

i agree with your point whole heartedly...lol

Regarding lightweight options.

I like the CF towers as it reduces weight up top to help with handling.
I also like the lightweight drive shaft as it helps with less rotating mass to make the truck more efficient (and it stays straighter), and is in the middleish of the truck so it either helps or does nothing to handling.

Lightened utdrives give you more initial punch just like the drive shaft, though when we're all turning our current limiters down already, this is purely for efficiency (run time and battery life), rather than actually getting out of a corner faster...as you could just change the current limit/punch setting to get that already. It does cut weight though, and if you're just a few seconds out of your comfort zone for an 8 or 10 min main, this might help.

Most have not liked the lightweight chassis, as it shifts the COG higher on the truck and makes it more prone to traction roll.

Smaller things like the pivot balls are nice, but don't impact handling and are very minor changes to weight balance, so you're unlikely to notice any difference other than when you put the truck on the scale.

We used to think light wasn't the way to go but the ran into another accomplished driver at our track where he had everything lightened. So we decided to do the same--lightweight chassis, carbon towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum front driveshaft, lunsford titanium turnbuckles, aluminum screw kit, etc etc etc.
I was fearful of the whole "raising the c.o.g." issue too--but in our case this was the best thing we ever did! The truck just simply turns/jumps/accelerates better (simple physics). Our race weight with everything including body is 6lb 6oz. As far as traction roll--not an issue--this is on a medium bite indoor track.
Remember-the truck is heavy in stock form due to true 1/8 scale diffs/shocks/turnbuckles/etc--so shedding a bit of weight will not bring you down into the "too light" category.
Most people that didn't like the lighter version are about 200+ pages and further back--not so many in the last 200 pages or so.
We run SRAMOS setup-and his truck is 7+ lbs-so much heavier than ours-but we have found his setup to be good for both heavier and lighter versions.
This has been our experience.

Well until yesterday, trading my SCT410 for another car seemed like an impossible move. But I stumbled across a great deal and now I've got a Tekno V4 converted MBX6T to go with my MBX6E Eco :-)

Can't say it was easy, but I think I'll be happier with a truggy as a basher vehicle. The SCT410 was ACHING for a track and I couldn't provide one :-( The new owner though intends to race it so at least it will go on doing what it was made for. :-) I'll be back some day when my 2wd SC snaps in half from a bash session and I need a new toy.

I can't seem to get zero rebound in my shocks using the bladder and the vent hole on the side of the cap. I've pushed the shaft in all the way in then pulled back out 20mm as per the instructions with no luck. Any ideas. Thanks for the help.

If I am not mistaken, to get zero rebound, you push the shaft all the way in when screwing the cap on

Push the shaft all the way in and hold it in while tightening the cap down.

I tried setting the rears to 0 rebound with bladders/no vents and couldn't get 0 rebound due to pushing the bladder down for a good seal it also pushed the shaft down slightly but I just left it

Just read the 2 comments, haha why didn't I think of that, I'm going to leave it how it is for now and see what happens