Tekno SCT410 Thread
Build the shocks with bladder when the track has big air and/or very rough. Use the emulsion build when its fast and smooth. Bladder builds say very consistent thruogh the entire run, emulsion shocks change due to the air mixing with the oil in the shock, which makes it feel lighter. Building the shocks bladder with a vent in the side makes it easier to get it right. Opening up the vent on top with the bladder feels less progressive and slows rebound. I personally will always run bladders.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
Build the shocks with bladder when the track has big air and/or very rough. Use the emulsion build when its fast and smooth. Bladder builds say very consistent thruogh the entire run, emulsion shocks change due to the air mixing with the oil in the shock, which makes it feel lighter. Building the shocks bladder with a vent in the side makes it easier to get it right. Opening up the vent on top with the bladder feels less progressive and slows rebound. I personally will always run bladders.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
As far as landing on the roof when you cut throttle in the air, I come from nitro as well and a nitro motor with a clutch that let's the drive train freewheel is a lot different than a brushless.
This is one of the reasons I went with the RX8. Push. Best friend for a person coming from nitro as it keeps a little bit or a lot bit of throttle (depending on how you set it) on when you release the trigger. Granted, with brushless you don't want to fully release the throttle but if you do, push will help keep you horizontal.
Also helps it feel like nitro rolling through a turn instead of having motor braking. Touch the brake and push is disabled.
This is one of the reasons I went with the RX8. Push. Best friend for a person coming from nitro as it keeps a little bit or a lot bit of throttle (depending on how you set it) on when you release the trigger. Granted, with brushless you don't want to fully release the throttle but if you do, push will help keep you horizontal.
Also helps it feel like nitro rolling through a turn instead of having motor braking. Touch the brake and push is disabled.
I think one thing that calmed my Tekno down was going to 2K in the rear for the diff.
I use right now 3.9lb front springs, 35W losi, 2.7lb rear springs 30W losi. 7-5-2 at last test, going 7-7-2K now but it felt much more planted in the rear. Very predictable and its dustbowl loose conditions. I could push the vehicle hard without being twitchy.
I can post my full previous setup if that helps anyone, pretty much only difference now is center diff settting, and changing between 3.5 toe in versus 4.5 toe in (3.5 when track watered).
I use right now 3.9lb front springs, 35W losi, 2.7lb rear springs 30W losi. 7-5-2 at last test, going 7-7-2K now but it felt much more planted in the rear. Very predictable and its dustbowl loose conditions. I could push the vehicle hard without being twitchy.
I can post my full previous setup if that helps anyone, pretty much only difference now is center diff settting, and changing between 3.5 toe in versus 4.5 toe in (3.5 when track watered).
Build the shocks with bladder when the track has big air and/or very rough. Use the emulsion build when its fast and smooth. Bladder builds say very consistent thruogh the entire run, emulsion shocks change due to the air mixing with the oil in the shock, which makes it feel lighter. Building the shocks bladder with a vent in the side makes it easier to get it right. Opening up the vent on top with the bladder feels less progressive and slows rebound. I personally will always run bladders.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
The shocks are the same between the buggy and truck, so it doesnt matter.
Clipped a pipe coming off the straight in the sweeper and it ripped the wheel off. Barely any contact though, just grazed it.
The spacer for the 17mm hex adaptor snapped and the nut with the rest of the spacer was still attached to the axle. Threw on the plastic 12mm hex's and used Scott Kelley's scte wheels (thanx Scott) in the rear for the rest of the day.
Hex's held up fine. Looks like if I'm going to be stubborn and stick with 17mm I will need the help of my machinist buddy to make a set for me.
After my first day with it...
Flew fine, neutral. I did get parachute with the air guards if my nose was up. Removed and much better (indoor).
Rear end felt a little too sprung for me, will be going up from 35/30 to 37.5/32.5 and try that. Steering is incredible, need to tame that down a bit.
Really lose rear end on corner entry, exit its locked in, need to find a balance. May be diff fluid, 7/5/5 now so I'm going to up the weight in the center before I change roll centers.
All in all though, I like the truck and will like it better once I have found my setup
Thanx for letting me try the Kyo springs Kuya.
The spacer for the 17mm hex adaptor snapped and the nut with the rest of the spacer was still attached to the axle. Threw on the plastic 12mm hex's and used Scott Kelley's scte wheels (thanx Scott) in the rear for the rest of the day.
Hex's held up fine. Looks like if I'm going to be stubborn and stick with 17mm I will need the help of my machinist buddy to make a set for me.
After my first day with it...
Flew fine, neutral. I did get parachute with the air guards if my nose was up. Removed and much better (indoor).
Rear end felt a little too sprung for me, will be going up from 35/30 to 37.5/32.5 and try that. Steering is incredible, need to tame that down a bit.
Really lose rear end on corner entry, exit its locked in, need to find a balance. May be diff fluid, 7/5/5 now so I'm going to up the weight in the center before I change roll centers.
All in all though, I like the truck and will like it better once I have found my setup

Thanx for letting me try the Kyo springs Kuya.
By the time I sold my Slash the only thing made by traxxas that was left was the diffs and maybe body posts. It was tricked out to the maxx and I still sucked really bad driving. WIth this Tekno I dropped my average lap times from 45-47s to 34-33s consistently! I wouldn't even move the battery tray back I'd focus on your electronics, camber, ride height etc, let the battery mod be the last change u have to make only because your really concerned about weight distribution..
Maybe the guys from Tekno could shed some light on the shock topic? How are they doing them, was one way better for smooth smaller jump tenth scale indoor tracks while another way of doing them is better for larger rougher big jump outdoor tracks? I run indoor smooth tracks and just getting ready to start building mine and was gonna do emulsion because that's what I'm use too and can get them closer built rebound wise to one another.
I see my kit came with pink rear springs and black front, was told it came with green front? Did I hear wrong or was this changed at one point? Also I'm on the Tekno site looking at springs as I want to pick some up, they don't say buggy or truck so are they interchangeable? I don't have to worry about buying buggy ones for my truck is that correct? Looks like the blue and purple rear springs are fairly new?
I think one thing that calmed my Tekno down was going to 2K in the rear for the diff.
I use right now 3.9lb front springs, 35W losi, 2.7lb rear springs 30W losi. 7-5-2 at last test, going 7-7-2K now but it felt much more planted in the rear. Very predictable and its dustbowl loose conditions. I could push the vehicle hard without being twitchy.
I can post my full previous setup if that helps anyone, pretty much only difference now is center diff settting, and changing between 3.5 toe in versus 4.5 toe in (3.5 when track watered).
I use right now 3.9lb front springs, 35W losi, 2.7lb rear springs 30W losi. 7-5-2 at last test, going 7-7-2K now but it felt much more planted in the rear. Very predictable and its dustbowl loose conditions. I could push the vehicle hard without being twitchy.
I can post my full previous setup if that helps anyone, pretty much only difference now is center diff settting, and changing between 3.5 toe in versus 4.5 toe in (3.5 when track watered).
I got to try the new gears, rear housing, and that Revtech 8000mah battery today.
The truck was much quieter with the new gears.
That 8000/150 definitely had better acceleration than my Sting 90C. I say this because there was a large triple that I couldn't do with the Sting but I did every time with the 8000mah. I was rolling into the throttle at the face of the jump.
I didn't have time to do a run time test on the Sting. I've done 12 minute runs with it but I've never run it until I hit the cutoff. I was curious enough to run the 8000 to the cutoff and it ran for 19 minutes and 30 seconds. The cutoff was set to 3.2v/cell, trying out a Hobbywing 4700 (14T pinion), and this was a medium-large sized indoor track with high traction.
I love my Sting battery but that Revtech 8000 was just awesome.
The truck was much quieter with the new gears.
That 8000/150 definitely had better acceleration than my Sting 90C. I say this because there was a large triple that I couldn't do with the Sting but I did every time with the 8000mah. I was rolling into the throttle at the face of the jump.
I didn't have time to do a run time test on the Sting. I've done 12 minute runs with it but I've never run it until I hit the cutoff. I was curious enough to run the 8000 to the cutoff and it ran for 19 minutes and 30 seconds. The cutoff was set to 3.2v/cell, trying out a Hobbywing 4700 (14T pinion), and this was a medium-large sized indoor track with high traction.
I love my Sting battery but that Revtech 8000 was just awesome.
The threads are M4. Type C adapters look like the right ones. Have you used the setup station at all yet? I am contemplating buying one and would love to hear your thoughts.



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