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Old 08-06-2013 | 02:36 PM
  #13066  
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Originally Posted by karl wasabi
Is everyone still running 4 o-rings on the bottom of their shocks?
I put them on there per the instructions the other day. What exactly is this for? Help the chassis from bottoming out a lot?
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Old 08-06-2013 | 02:38 PM
  #13067  
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Originally Posted by HickamHatch
I put them on there per the instructions the other day. What exactly is this for? Help the chassis from bottoming out a lot?
It is to control roll on really high bite tracks.
On most tracks I tend to run 2 or 3 with the original shock shaft collars.
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Old 08-06-2013 | 03:30 PM
  #13068  
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I've been running 2 lately with great results. Indoor and out
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Old 08-06-2013 | 03:36 PM
  #13069  
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Originally Posted by Bernard_Jr
If you are trying to copy a setup exactly, you'd have to set the droop with the same method that the other person used.

I like the eyelet method just because it's an easy reference point that only requires an inexpensive tool and no disassembly.

How often are you changing your shock locations? For the most part I only change tires, droop, and occasionally sway bars.
True, I'm not saying I don't set droop that way ever... I play with setup a lot. So in a given 4 hr practice session, I could possibly try 3-4 shock positions.

Now that I have a good base that works most places, I usually only change ride height and or droop. If my setup is way off I usually only change a spring, swaybar, oil, or bottom shock position.


Originally Posted by billdelong
right on... I've been pretty happy with this $15 caliper here, the battery lasts about a year in my pit box in the Texas heat:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-digit...ngs-68304.html
+1 they arent perfect but close and cheap
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Old 08-06-2013 | 03:38 PM
  #13070  
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Originally Posted by sramos
I've been running 2 lately with great results. Indoor and out
That's awesome to hear. I just rebuilt my shocks last night with the 8x1.3 pistons and I decided to just use two o-rings instead of 4. Under high cornering it seems that the truck might be able to lean hard enough to hit the o-rings when running 4. Can't wait to try it out tonight!
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Old 08-06-2013 | 04:52 PM
  #13071  
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Originally Posted by lala4fire
Well I pulled the trigger and bought this truck and am stoked to start building it and racing a new class Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.
Sorry to be a pest but any more thoughts on this, I'm kinda true to tekin stuff since they are very local to me. Thanks
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Old 08-06-2013 | 05:13 PM
  #13072  
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Fioroni and Competition Suspension, anyone running theses pistons? How are they? what weight oil are u running and what traction is the track your on. With the Fioronis someone said u have to drill them out?
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Old 08-06-2013 | 05:18 PM
  #13073  
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Originally Posted by lala4fire
Sorry to be a pest but any more thoughts on this, I'm kinda true to tekin stuff since they are very local to me. Thanks
The RX8 is top shelf, good choice.

For the motor, the pro4 HD is a power house of a motor... but the hobbywing is just as strong and is under $100 shipped. And lighter.

As long as no one will cry if you run higher than a 2 cell lipo I would run the HW 4 pole 3400
http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xrm3656sd
Didn't do the calcs to see if that kv would work out with 3 cell, if not... lower kv pro HD.

With a smc 3 cell in a 2 cell case
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=181

You don't need 4 cell in these IMO, 3 cell with a 3400kv would be a rocket and you'd probably get at least as much run time as a high mah 2 cell. You have about the same weight as the 7200 2 cell so your not throwing you L/R balance out of whack.
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Old 08-06-2013 | 05:19 PM
  #13074  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Fioroni and Competition Suspension, anyone running theses pistons? How are they? what weight oil are u running and what traction is the track your on. With the Fioronis someone said u have to drill them out?
SRAMOS is running them with 37.5 and 32.5 weights last time I checked. Another good alternative is the Tekno or Kyosho 8x1.3 pistons.
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Old 08-06-2013 | 05:32 PM
  #13075  
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Originally Posted by karl wasabi
SRAMOS is running them with 37.5 and 32.5 weights last time I checked. Another good alternative is the Tekno or Kyosho 8x1.3 pistons.
Yeah but for what types of tracks? I will be running on a smooth hard packed but low to med traction. And I don't know if I should keep the sway bars that come with the kit on? Most times sway bars aren't used on low to med traction tracks correct? And the ones that come in the kit are 2.4mm and u can go down to 2.2mm wouldn't those be better for a low traction track guys?
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Old 08-06-2013 | 05:57 PM
  #13076  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Yeah but for what types of tracks? I will be running on a smooth hard packed but low to med traction. And I don't know if I should keep the sway bars that come with the kit on? Most times sway bars aren't used on low to med traction tracks correct? And the ones that come in the kit are 2.4mm and u can go down to 2.2mm wouldn't those be better for a low traction track guys?
I believe he runs on mostly high grip tracks. You're running on a smooth, hard packed track with low traction? LOL. Never heard of that before. Lot of dust or something?

In my opinion you should always run sway bars. They truck would have way too much roll without them. I would suggest getting used to the truck first before you start making major changes. The stock pistons don't have too much pack, so they should be good for low traction surfaces.
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Old 08-06-2013 | 06:04 PM
  #13077  
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Originally Posted by sramos
They are trust me! Just do the whole break in thing, balance, drive for about 5min, balance, drive for about 5 min, repeat a couple more times. This may not be needed but that's how I always do my battery's. never really let them get below 3.8v per cell for the first few runs. They seem to last longer with no problems, no bad cells, no puffing etc. this might be something you know, or do, or just think I'm crazy lol!!
Ramos, do you run a custom voltage cutoff on your Gen 2, or just the standard 2s setting?
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Old 08-06-2013 | 06:08 PM
  #13078  
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If your track is blown out or low-med traction, removing the swaybars will help.
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Old 08-06-2013 | 06:25 PM
  #13079  
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Originally Posted by BSCFlash
Ramos, do you run a custom voltage cutoff on your Gen 2, or just the standard 2s setting?
Just the standard default 2s cutoff
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Old 08-06-2013 | 06:56 PM
  #13080  
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Originally Posted by karl wasabi
I believe he runs on mostly high grip tracks. You're running on a smooth, hard packed track with low traction? LOL. Never heard of that before. Lot of dust or something?

In my opinion you should always run sway bars. They truck would have way too much roll without them. I would suggest getting used to the truck first before you start making major changes. The stock pistons don't have too much pack, so they should be good for low traction surfaces.
Yea its dirt not clay and they don't water in between each heat and its hot so it dries out and gets dusty and then it gets pretty slick. I just opened the truck box yesterday so I couldn't tell ya what springs come with the truck, can u tell me the colors of the springs from soft to hard and which ones came in the kit so I can decide if I should buy any. Thanks so much for all the help guys I appreciate it. I read one of the Tekno drivers has been running their new truggy ET48? cant wait to see that.
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