17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-06-2013 | 01:28 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Yea it's on the inside of the A-arms. Without the screw you get full droop which is HUGE on this truck. Not sure about the Losi, but my SC10 set's droop by putting spacers under the shock piston so the shocks can only extend so far.
08-06-2013 | 01:30 PM
Ok shock limiters, yea that's how u do the Losi.
08-06-2013 | 01:37 PM
08-06-2013 | 02:03 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Yea if all your worried about is making them even you just need a stick and a marker to measure the sock length on one side and compare to the other. However a decent set of digital calipers is a good tool to have in you back. I got mine at an autoparts store for $30 but have seen them online for half that.
08-06-2013 | 02:03 PM
Well I pulled the trigger and bought this truck and am stoked to start building it and racing a new class
Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys
My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.
Most all the guys that race these vehicles run 2 cell and 4600 kv motors. They are always coming off complaining how hot their motors get and how their puffing batteries and such. The track is a small indoor clay/dirt mix with med. traction. So I was thinking of running a takin RX8 gen2 with a 3000 kv pro 4 hd on 3 cell and wanted to know if this would be the way to go to keep thing running cool and still have the power to try and beat these guys My local track does not regulate cell count. Any advise would be great and hope to one day be able to give constructive tuning input for this tread.
08-06-2013 | 02:06 PM
I wish they woulda went with a droop screw like the one on a RC8B.2. Its a button head screw with a hex in both ends, and the screw gois in frm the bottom. It doesnt wear the chassis at all. Maybe this is just an idea for future products fro Tekno...
08-06-2013 | 02:13 PM
If you are trying to copy a setup exactly, you'd have to set the droop with the same method that the other person used.
I like the eyelet method just because it's an easy reference point that only requires an inexpensive tool and no disassembly.
How often are you changing your shock locations? For the most part I only change tires, droop, and occasionally sway bars.
08-06-2013 | 02:13 PM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
Yea if all your worried about is making them even you just need a stick and a marker to measure the sock length on one side and compare to the other. However a decent set of digital calipers is a good tool to have in you back. I got mine at an autoparts store for $30 but have seen them online for half that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-digit...ngs-68304.html
08-06-2013 | 02:16 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 73
From: West Des Moines, Iowa
I bought a set of Associated droop screws for under $10 at the LHS. I put them on my EB48, and the rear of the SCT410 as the rear droop setting allows for enough room for the head of the screw.
08-06-2013 | 02:16 PM
So why dont you do what I did and buy them and put them in? You do have to bevel the stop on the chassis to get full droop though because the chassis is not like the lite-weight one (eb-48). It is intended to use the screw like that.
08-06-2013 | 02:21 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 73
From: West Des Moines, Iowa
+1 That's a good idea. I'm going to fire up the Dremel tonight after work and take care of that.