17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
05-26-2013, 03:21 PM
I ran last night. I found that increasing my rear diff to 5k was the way to go. 7/7/5 and it locked down my a$$. I was running Blairs DNC setup. I still had a ton of steering and could whip it around on those 180's. I was just really surprised how going from 2 or 3 in the rear up too 5 made such a huge difference. I have been struggling to get the rear end more locked down. I took TQ and the win. The guy in second was running a sct410. So me pulling away from him like we did on this poor Losi 2.0 wasn't gonna happen.
I'm at 10/7/5 on a medium bite track right now with super soft wishbone 2's.
05-26-2013, 03:23 PM
I tried emulsion--didn't like it at all. Used to run emulsion on my scte and it worked great but not here--I think the weight of the truck has something to do with it.
I'm running vented bladders with foam compensators from Losi 1/8 scale and the shocks are working great!
I'm running vented bladders with foam compensators from Losi 1/8 scale and the shocks are working great!
05-26-2013, 03:33 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (30)
I tried emulsion--didn't like it at all. Used to run emulsion on my scte and it worked great but not here--I think the weight of the truck has something to do with it.
I'm running vented bladders with foam compensators from Losi 1/8 scale and the shocks are working great!
I'm running vented bladders with foam compensators from Losi 1/8 scale and the shocks are working great!
How much rebound?
05-26-2013, 03:52 PM
Here's the current setup I'm using--am pretty happy with it right now:
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
05-26-2013, 04:02 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (30)
Here's the current setup I'm using--am pretty happy with it right now:
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
05-26-2013, 04:31 PM
lol. How have things been going for you timamybrown?
Tires are definitley the first thing to start with, but, based on what you are saying as far as your setup goes, can only do some much.
+1 one here on the rear link height on the tower. With it as high as you have it, I can see you having issues.
What are you using as a setup guide virgil? I like to use a combination of the hudy guide and the Mark Pavadis info that can be found online. Give it a print and go. A lot of info people are advising you is basically the same thing.
Me personally, I think start with the linkage settings first. If you make any changes at all, personally I would stick with 2K in the rear first before going with diff oil changes. 2K in the rear really helped get the rear end to bite more.
Strange, with the Pro4 4600 I have been getting temps in the 150s max. gearing wise, it was interesting that when timamybrown and I ran together, he with his HW 4000, I was going with gearing basically the same as him with my 4600kv.
Tires are definitley the first thing to start with, but, based on what you are saying as far as your setup goes, can only do some much.
+1 one here on the rear link height on the tower. With it as high as you have it, I can see you having issues.
What are you using as a setup guide virgil? I like to use a combination of the hudy guide and the Mark Pavadis info that can be found online. Give it a print and go. A lot of info people are advising you is basically the same thing.
Me personally, I think start with the linkage settings first. If you make any changes at all, personally I would stick with 2K in the rear first before going with diff oil changes. 2K in the rear really helped get the rear end to bite more.
Strange, with the Pro4 4600 I have been getting temps in the 150s max. gearing wise, it was interesting that when timamybrown and I ran together, he with his HW 4000, I was going with gearing basically the same as him with my 4600kv.
From the way the truck acted yesterday I think 2K is too light. I think that one wheel or the other would randomly get traction and the diff would dump all the power to that side and cause the truck to hook. It didn't happen every time I accelerated, but enough to make the truck a pain to drive.
The day wasn't a total loss though. I think I've found a good combination of springs,oil wt , and pistons to make the truck jump well and handle the rough track. I tried the pink front green rear springs that a number of people have said worked well for them. I dropped my oil weights to 25fr, 22.5r The truck jumjped very well, but slapped the chassis hard landing the bigger jumps. The hobby shop didn't have any Kyosho pistons, but they did have some AE 16mm pistons that were 1.3x6. I bored these out to 1.5x6 and ended up with the same hole surface area as the kyosho 1.3x8. They worked great. There was no sign of the nose down attitude and the pistons had enough pack that it landed nicely with minimal chassis slap.
With the lighter springs and oils the truck also handeled the rough sections much better. Now if I can just get the rear end under control I might actually learn to drive this thing!
05-26-2013, 05:37 PM
Here's the current setup I'm using--am pretty happy with it right now:
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
Serpent webbed bladders
Losi foam compensators part#LOSA5431
Tekno 1.3 x 8 pistons all around
35w/front 30/rear
Pink front/green rear springs
About 1/3 rebound all around
2 orings at all 4 corners (instead of the recommended 4)
Ride height 26f/26r
Note: I decided to go vented setup because it has worked very well for me with my Mugen MBX6-ECO. Over on the ECO forum most of the regulars seem to like going with the vented/foam compensator setup. So far it's money for me on the a tekno too!!
05-26-2013, 05:44 PM
Cain,
From the way the truck acted yesterday I think 2K is too light. I think that one wheel or the other would randomly get traction and the diff would dump all the power to that side and cause the truck to hook. It didn't happen every time I accelerated, but enough to make the truck a pain to drive.
The day wasn't a total loss though. I think I've found a good combination of springs,oil wt , and pistons to make the truck jump well and handle the rough track. I tried the pink front green rear springs that a number of people have said worked well for them. I dropped my oil weights to 25fr, 22.5r The truck jumjped very well, but slapped the chassis hard landing the bigger jumps. The hobby shop didn't have any Kyosho pistons, but they did have some AE 16mm pistons that were 1.3x6. I bored these out to 1.5x6 and ended up with the same hole surface area as the kyosho 1.3x8. They worked great. There was no sign of the nose down attitude and the pistons had enough pack that it landed nicely with minimal chassis slap.
With the lighter springs and oils the truck also handeled the rough sections much better. Now if I can just get the rear end under control I might actually learn to drive this thing!
From the way the truck acted yesterday I think 2K is too light. I think that one wheel or the other would randomly get traction and the diff would dump all the power to that side and cause the truck to hook. It didn't happen every time I accelerated, but enough to make the truck a pain to drive.
The day wasn't a total loss though. I think I've found a good combination of springs,oil wt , and pistons to make the truck jump well and handle the rough track. I tried the pink front green rear springs that a number of people have said worked well for them. I dropped my oil weights to 25fr, 22.5r The truck jumjped very well, but slapped the chassis hard landing the bigger jumps. The hobby shop didn't have any Kyosho pistons, but they did have some AE 16mm pistons that were 1.3x6. I bored these out to 1.5x6 and ended up with the same hole surface area as the kyosho 1.3x8. They worked great. There was no sign of the nose down attitude and the pistons had enough pack that it landed nicely with minimal chassis slap.
With the lighter springs and oils the truck also handeled the rough sections much better. Now if I can just get the rear end under control I might actually learn to drive this thing!
05-26-2013, 06:07 PM
?? You can't be using foam compensators if you're using the Serpent webbed bladders. There's no where to put the foam in above the bladders, cuz the webbing fills the top side of the bladder. Unless you're stuffing a piece in the vent of the cap on top to act as an air filter for the vent?
05-26-2013, 06:17 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Good to hear. I was thinking about going 7 in the rear, but I'm gonna stick with 5 and move some stuff around before i go up. Now i need to figure out some good shocks....Blairs DNC shock setup isnt working out so well. When you used the webbed bladder what change did yo see/feel? I have some, I just haven't used them yet.
05-26-2013, 07:16 PM
So, now that I've got 2 race days with this truck. All I can say is WOW!! What a difference from my sc10 4x4. I know this has been said over and over but it is really a night and day difference. Besides the handling and ease of maintenance , it's just a fun truck to drive.
I had read about people having the nose diving issue, which I didn't see the first day but experienced today. I feel like it was only on specific jumps and not all the time. Was there a way to fix this or does it depend on case to case?
I also knew of the rear end being loose but also didn't really have the problem. Should I remove the center and rear braces anyways or just leave them? I also didnt move the rear hubs up, worth a shot?
What are the more common changes made in set-ups lately?
Thanks in advance for any opinions or help
I had read about people having the nose diving issue, which I didn't see the first day but experienced today. I feel like it was only on specific jumps and not all the time. Was there a way to fix this or does it depend on case to case?
I also knew of the rear end being loose but also didn't really have the problem. Should I remove the center and rear braces anyways or just leave them? I also didnt move the rear hubs up, worth a shot?
What are the more common changes made in set-ups lately?
Thanks in advance for any opinions or help
05-26-2013, 07:21 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
I ran emulsion until recently. With emulsion shocks, you get a much "deader"shock. I usually like this if the track has smaller jumps. I use springs for chassis support, and shocks for dampening. I don't like making the shock act like a spring too. Too many variables.
That being said, a bladder setup acts a little like a variable rate spring that comes on near the end of the stroke. Good for larger, outdoor jumps. I am now running vented bladder. There really is no need to support the bladder with foam. The Tekno bladders are stout. Just bleed the shocks correctly to prevent too much hydraulic pack. If you use foam, you will have a lot of rebound. This can exaggerate the spring effect. When setup with the right springs, this truck works very well, don't substitute shock rebound for the proper spring rate.
I am currently running green Tekno springs all around, with stock pistons, and 35f, 30r AE oils.
Good luck, and have fun!
That being said, a bladder setup acts a little like a variable rate spring that comes on near the end of the stroke. Good for larger, outdoor jumps. I am now running vented bladder. There really is no need to support the bladder with foam. The Tekno bladders are stout. Just bleed the shocks correctly to prevent too much hydraulic pack. If you use foam, you will have a lot of rebound. This can exaggerate the spring effect. When setup with the right springs, this truck works very well, don't substitute shock rebound for the proper spring rate.
I am currently running green Tekno springs all around, with stock pistons, and 35f, 30r AE oils.
Good luck, and have fun!
05-26-2013, 11:41 PM
I ran emulsion until recently. With emulsion shocks, you get a much "deader"shock. I usually like this if the track has smaller jumps. I use springs for chassis support, and shocks for dampening. I don't like making the shock act like a spring too. Too many variables.
That being said, a bladder setup acts a little like a variable rate spring that comes on near the end of the stroke. Good for larger, outdoor jumps. I am now running vented bladder. There really is no need to support the bladder with foam. The Tekno bladders are stout. Just bleed the shocks correctly to prevent too much hydraulic pack. If you use foam, you will have a lot of rebound. This can exaggerate the spring effect. When setup with the right springs, this truck works very well, don't substitute shock rebound for the proper spring rate.
I am currently running green Tekno springs all around, with stock pistons, and 35f, 30r AE oils.
Good luck, and have fun!
That being said, a bladder setup acts a little like a variable rate spring that comes on near the end of the stroke. Good for larger, outdoor jumps. I am now running vented bladder. There really is no need to support the bladder with foam. The Tekno bladders are stout. Just bleed the shocks correctly to prevent too much hydraulic pack. If you use foam, you will have a lot of rebound. This can exaggerate the spring effect. When setup with the right springs, this truck works very well, don't substitute shock rebound for the proper spring rate.
I am currently running green Tekno springs all around, with stock pistons, and 35f, 30r AE oils.
Good luck, and have fun!
Mike, What is your thoughts: Emulsion vs vented bladder? What's really going on different?
05-27-2013, 04:33 AM
So, now that I've got 2 race days with this truck. All I can say is WOW!! What a difference from my sc10 4x4. I know this has been said over and over but it is really a night and day difference. Besides the handling and ease of maintenance , it's just a fun truck to drive.
I had read about people having the nose diving issue, which I didn't see the first day but experienced today. I feel like it was only on specific jumps and not all the time. Was there a way to fix this or does it depend on case to case?
I also knew of the rear end being loose but also didn't really have the problem. Should I remove the center and rear braces anyways or just leave them? I also didnt move the rear hubs up, worth a shot?
What are the more common changes made in set-ups lately?
Thanks in advance for any opinions or help
I had read about people having the nose diving issue, which I didn't see the first day but experienced today. I feel like it was only on specific jumps and not all the time. Was there a way to fix this or does it depend on case to case?
I also knew of the rear end being loose but also didn't really have the problem. Should I remove the center and rear braces anyways or just leave them? I also didnt move the rear hubs up, worth a shot?
What are the more common changes made in set-ups lately?
Thanks in advance for any opinions or help
05-27-2013, 07:27 AM
Ran Blair setup again yesterday. Made a couple changes pink fronts 37.5 green rears 30 stock pistons. Because my 1.3x8 won't get here until tomorrow. Stock front kick up with center brace removed on a hard packed track with a sugar sand topping truck had all kinds of rear grip. Running soft calibers should have been on gridiron's ended up taking 2nd. The track has a counting system that tells your average speed during practice I was running an average of 31mph by the main the traction went away and I could only maintain an average speed of 26mph.