Very Cool Sean. I just submitted my order.

I would start with a 14t at our track

Has anybody snapped any aluminum screws yet? I'm using a few with aluminum nuts but I'm afraid to put them everywhere. Nothing worse than trying to get a busted screw out

Just about any kit your fine fine with all aluminum on top (except for the chassis brace mounts) and none on the bottom (except for things like lipo case & side guards & low stress stuff, alu is ok for those).

Sounds like a good plan...I'll keep the stainless steel on bottom and aluminum up top.

Nice. I might recommend maybe some nice clear film over it. It can get minor scratches easily. I dont know what would work best but something very clear, large enough, and something that wont leave residue when you want to put a new peice on. I am going to polish mine soon with meguiars plastik polish using the same polish wheel you use on headlights. I was thinking about getting ahold of Zagg (the people that make incredible sheild screen covers for phones) and getting a large sheet for it. You would never have to worry about it again. The scratchs i have on mine are VERY minor and can be removed easily. You barely notice. Dont let that stop you from getting it because its awesome. You'll atleast look the fastest in the pits. Lol. I also got a revolve rc stand. The thing is so sweet. I highly recommend it. Its pricey but i think its worth every penny.....haha there i go rambling again

Other than looks and slight weight reduction what is so great about the blue aluminum screw kit? $50 seems like alot for screws that can potentially break and get stuck in the threads.

Weight... and bling.

You need good tools too, the heads strip easier than steel. Recommend MIP.

I've been running them for a few weeks and all is fine I did keep the steel screw's in the bumpers. Ran on a pretty big 8th scale track yesterday with a big triple that requires a full throttle assault let just say I didn't make it everytime.

anyone notice that the front inner kickup position in the manual doesn't appear to be used on the setup sheets at all out there?

thoughts?

Just ran for it for the first time in a dirt field all I can say is awsome.

Static cling Window tint would be cool to use...just get the clearest stuff you can find...or an LCD screen saver if you can find one big enough.

http://www.fastener-express.com

I really loved this truck indoors, but it's been frustrating me outdoors. The rear end is so loose on power and I'm running out of tricks to make the rear end stick to the track. Someone give me some tips before I have a melt down. Here's what I've done so far.

Removed the center & rear chassis braces
Removed all anti-squat.
Rear shocks are laid down as far as they can (inner hole on tower, out hole on arm)
Longest camber link possible.
Rear hubs all the way forward
Inner camber link in the top hole.
Diffs are 7-7-5
Stock springs, stock oil all around.

The truck turns on a dime and has forward bite for days, but on power in to the turns I can't keep the rear end behind me. The track I was at today has a huge sweeper coming off the straight. I can only take that half throttle in to the apex. If I crank on the throttle the rear end is all over the place.

I removed the rear sway bar for the last qualifier and it was only marginally better. Any suggestions before I say the 4 letter L _ _ _ word?

Thanks . . . Matt

If it were me I would try thinner weight in the center and rear...if its loosing the rear end around corners I would try the lowest inner camber link hole.

Haven't run mine outdoors yet, but you might want to try 5k in the front diff to take out some on power steering. More front droop as well.