17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
03-14-2013, 05:44 PM
#6947
Thanks man, One of the options with this truck is to run to bladders, but take out the bleeder screw to let the bladders move more. You can also remove the bladder and run emulsion style like your 44.2. So that gives you some options. I'm also gonna get CS pistons when I get back.FYI
Do the down stops have to be on there? Is anyone running with out them?
03-14-2013, 05:46 PM
#6948
I run a lightweight truck at 6lbs 4oz and I love
It just as planted very nimble and not so lazy
It just as planted very nimble and not so lazy
03-14-2013, 06:00 PM
#6950
I would think its going to hydra lock if I take them off after bleeding them with them on and then the oil will blow out. I will be playing with that for a few rounds. They feel better with out them to me. I was thinking with out them maybe there is to much roll or something? And tip over. I can see the purpose on high bite.
03-14-2013, 06:09 PM
#6951
Found it!
The o-rings are there to help with excessive body roll. Stiffer swaybars helps as well, but they affect the whole range of travel, the o-ring only affect the last 10% or, right where a rollover might occur. If you're track is really bumpy and blown out, removing them is a good idea. If your track is really smooth and flowy, try running them all. I'm running 3 per shock right now.
__________________
The o-rings are there to help with excessive body roll. Stiffer swaybars helps as well, but they affect the whole range of travel, the o-ring only affect the last 10% or, right where a rollover might occur. If you're track is really bumpy and blown out, removing them is a good idea. If your track is really smooth and flowy, try running them all. I'm running 3 per shock right now.
__________________
03-14-2013, 06:18 PM
#6952
Found it!
The o-rings are there to help with excessive body roll. Stiffer swaybars helps as well, but they affect the whole range of travel, the o-ring only affect the last 10% or, right where a rollover might occur. If you're track is really bumpy and blown out, removing them is a good idea. If your track is really smooth and flowy, try running them all. I'm running 3 per shock right now.
__________________
The o-rings are there to help with excessive body roll. Stiffer swaybars helps as well, but they affect the whole range of travel, the o-ring only affect the last 10% or, right where a rollover might occur. If you're track is really bumpy and blown out, removing them is a good idea. If your track is really smooth and flowy, try running them all. I'm running 3 per shock right now.
__________________
I will start with none.... Bleed with the spring cup on and no rebound. Wish me luck...
03-14-2013, 06:28 PM
#6953
Did you run it with stock set up at all? I ran both 410 and 2.0 both brand new box stock and after 20 minutes of quals with 410 we switched controllers and I immediately had laps 1.5+ seconds faster with 2.0 and it just flat out drove better in corners and flew over the triple I couldn't even think about in the 410. I'm going to try the suggested changes but like I said the base setup is not good for me and it seems many others. Rear way too loose and nose dives like a brick. It's got to be the set up since its winning a lot. I'm not new to this either got a few SC4x4 RCPRO state champ 2 yrs now and roar regional champion titles plus 2nd in club series 3 yrs running but with the 410 first time out I got lapped by the guy I normally battle with and he is a sponsored Losi guy.
What swaybar are you looking for? I think there is a 2.6 in the bottom drawer of my tool box that Un4rcing has. I have a 2.2 coming and if it gets here in time, I will drop it by the track Saturday. I dont leave for Chi-town till Sunday noon. So while UN gets 1st dibs, You can use em if ya need them. I gave him freedom to change anything he wants, So if you guys want to experiment with mine go for it.
I know UN is a good driver and set up guy so I have faith. You should have seen the durability test he did Tuesday, LMAO Coming off the table top he hit that lip with power to jump over to the flat and steered it just a bit off, and POW, right into that pole at speed! Thank goodness he hit it square in the middle of the truck, but it didnt bust or bend anything! I swear I felt it hit from the drivers stand.. Dang, I say this and gave him my stuff for 2 weeks! I really AM a sickpuppy !
I know UN is a good driver and set up guy so I have faith. You should have seen the durability test he did Tuesday, LMAO Coming off the table top he hit that lip with power to jump over to the flat and steered it just a bit off, and POW, right into that pole at speed! Thank goodness he hit it square in the middle of the truck, but it didnt bust or bend anything! I swear I felt it hit from the drivers stand.. Dang, I say this and gave him my stuff for 2 weeks! I really AM a sickpuppy !
Right! Tune it up and get it dialed.... then sell it and buy another one.
03-14-2013, 06:32 PM
#6954
Yeah, four was what the manual called for. So thats where its been. As I told Vegatron, there is a 2.6 mm sway bar in the bottom drawer of my tool box and if the 2.2 comes in B4 I leave I will drop it and the manual by on Saturday. Think I may put the 17.5 in the LXT and drop it by too, if I come by.
03-14-2013, 06:34 PM
#6956
Yeah, four was what the manual called for. So thats where its been. As I told Vegatron, there is a 2.6 mm sway bar in the bottom drawer of my tool box and if the 2.2 comes in B4 I leave I will drop it and the manual by on Saturday. Think I may put the 17.5 in the LXT and drop it by too, if I come by.
03-14-2013, 07:21 PM
#6958
I would think its going to hydra lock if I take them off after bleeding them with them on and then the oil will blow out. I will be playing with that for a few rounds. They feel better with out them to me. I was thinking with out them maybe there is to much roll or something? And tip over. I can see the purpose on high bite.
Or no limiter like your playing with and limit down travel with the grubs to control the dive or roll or a combo of the limiter and grub.
No vent screws with bladder build (as said) gives less rebound in the build than with.
03-14-2013, 07:29 PM
#6959
If I've ever limited up travel I build without the limiters with 0 rebound and then add limiters as needed.
Or not, I prefer to limit down travel with the grubs to control the dive or roll or a combo of the limiter and grub.
No vent screws with bladder build (as said) gives less rebound in the build than with.
Or not, I prefer to limit down travel with the grubs to control the dive or roll or a combo of the limiter and grub.
No vent screws with bladder build (as said) gives less rebound in the build than with.
03-14-2013, 07:32 PM
#6960
For you guys who dont know Un4racing, he did a great set of build videos on the B44.2 that got picked up by Petitrc. He has done alot of in depth on it and many subscribers to his youtube channel about it. He now has his hands on my 410 so lets see what kind of set up stuff peaks his interest on this thing. I'm gonna be watching from my trip. Cant go anywhere without my netbook, ya know....
He's wanting to do the same on a EB48! we'll see what happens with that one.
He's wanting to do the same on a EB48! we'll see what happens with that one.