fq06

iTrader: (12)

Yep, I'll miss that pit

ravage

iTrader: (15)

If any one needs a excellent motor and viper combo I'm selling my viper vx4 550 4 pole with the copperhead r esc. It has never overheated and can pull this around with no probelm and it's plenty fast for the modified races

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

I've been running the Tekno CF towers on my CST410 since they first came out. I've landed upside down, cased things, flat landed 50 foot 8th scale jumps, done cartwheels, gone headlong into somebody going the wrong way on the straight, and been checked off the straight at full speed into a steel support beam by lapped traffic. My wife has also done most of that, and even more landing on the towers/lid, lawn darts, and running into things (semi-recent rookie/novice class graduate). Neither of us have had any issues with the Tekno CF towers at all.

As for why...I got them to help lower the CG and lighten the truck a little for indoor and high grip outdoor.

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

This gives me a little confidence. I oredered the Tekno cf rear tower and i hope i have as good of luck as you. With all the horror stories about the cf snapping, i'm hoping it won't happen to me. I raced an scte with cf towers front and rear all last year and never broke or snapped any part of them. I don't crash nearly as much as i did last year so i'm hoping that will mean something with this truck.

P6

iTrader: (5)

How much weight does cf shave off from stock towers, my other rc it's actually adding 0.7g-3g I'm guessing because of the thickness vs plastic or aluminum that's a lot thinner

fq06

iTrader: (12)

They have the weight reduction numbers on the site.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5029c...bon-fiber-4mm/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5028c...bon-fiber-5mm/

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm putting this bad boy together and I'm not sure how much toe-in and anti-squat to put in it? Will be on a loose to medium traction track. I ordered 3 down and 3 up from stock springs for the front and back so I will be covered with springs on your guys suggestions on toe-in and anti-squat. I will take suggestions for the front also, I believe they sweep the front outer hinge and not sure on front inner, thanks guys.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

I run 1* toe and middle dot on the antisquat. If its very high traction go with dot up on the antisquat.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

No its low to medium. I was thinking 2* anti and middle dot toe in, not sure if that's 3 or 3.5 with the 1* rear hub.

wreckya

iTrader: (1)

Way back in the beginning of this thread I seen a guy post that he was running no anti-squat? I don't think that's possible is it? Isn't it a minimum of 1* anti-squat correct?

XzedamX

Hi all;

Finally get the time to give my 2 cent feedback's.
(I said "finally" because I buy the car the feb 28 2013...)!

Easy and smooth building, that some time I feel I don't need the manual!
Just follow the two tricks on the first page ;-)! (the rear inner camber link mounting screws and nerf bar installation)
The build of the car made me remind when I had build my hotshot II, same pleasure! (note the hoshot II was my first real rc car)
The only problem I got is the motor mount a little bit to tight.
The addendum for the shim was good.

Just Al servo horn as option.
Box set up with full rebound, no drop (for the moment), HW sct120 pro and 4kv motor with15 tooth pinion, nanotech 6.6, proline streetfighter on hazards rim.
(As i haven't finish to paint the body shell i only ride on parking.)

First impression " WOW AWSOME!!!! ".
After the first battery I just put the rear hub forward it made a great difference for the car performance.
I have let my girlfriend try the sct410 and she said " great steering, very accurate" and "great car" of course!

I just try some different spring loading as set up and the car is very responsive.

Don't know how but I have bent one front shaft after 7 battery...
After 14 battery and some esc setting's I put a 18 tooth pinion and the car become more impressing!! (just as i love)!

Yesterday I broke my first part, the front rear hinge pin holder at full throttle in a wide turn against a concrete sidewalk.
Just afraid that other parts will be broke but not an other parts are broken.
Now I no longer have to wait for my aluminum option order...
Suddenly I'm wondering if it would be better to keep the composite part to have a fuse part?

Like some of you I have some nose diving problems but I know exactly why
first : I brake like a pig ( I have drive to much 1/8 nitro on road..)
second : I need to put some drop on the rear just to have the rear axle at a low level above the front wheel axle at full drop ( I need to got my stand very horizontal ).

Adjustment of the caster angle would have been a good thing even if we can get by others adjustment.

These car is just what I expected from such a car.

Thank TEKNO

Boss Ross

iTrader: (1)

Parts management strategy... any reason I shouldn't change to the EB48 outdrives and diff couplers so I can stock one set of drive shafts? I'm sure they're a couple of grams heavier, but I've already got the buggy chassis on it. I had a bad week I guess, and bent both the SCT and EB aluminum shafts. TIA.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

You can on the center shafts and center diff outdrives. But the wheel drive shafts can't be swapped.

Boss Ross

iTrader: (1)

Got it. Thanks.

Bcholka

You're going to get answers all over the map on this one--you'll have guys saying that they've done 100ft jumps with no issues and guys saying they've jumped off a street curb and their cf towers broke.
Here's the bottom line--if you're a serious racer you should run them for better c.o.g.--period (for serious racers money should not be of primary concern).
If you're more of a basher, run on tracks with crazy big jumps, or are just looking for the best durability then go with the metal ones.
If you do go with the cf ones the Teknos are the best quality of all of the choices out there IMO (geez that's a surprise!!!).