I just ordered a SCT410. trying to find out what I need to go with it that works best. Motor, ESC. Tires, Pinion gear. Should I get the Traktion drive, etc. What is best for gear, etc. for getting power from motor to drive shaft???

Had a couple small issues with my SCT 410. Went to the track on Sunday and within 5-10 min. running time, this happened
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...s/100e0797.jpg
losing the serrated lock nuts (TKR1213) in the process. That was both rear stub axles (TKR5570). I have a strange feeling the fronts are gonna end up facing the same fate.
Also, I took a pretty hard hit on the right front wheel, luckily it didnt pop the stub axle as well, but...I noticed the steering was a little loose and when I tried to snug it up, it never got tight.
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...s/100e0795.jpg
I found out what happened was the screw pulled through the ackerman plate (TKR5117). It was mounted in the center hole of the plate. When I had it in the rear position, I didnt have a problem because theres more surface area for the shoulder of the screw to hold onto. An aluminum upgrade would be a great idea.

Tekno
 

Hey Bmain, Thats exactly what happened to me. Drove my buddys at West Coast 1 pack and I was hooked. :nod:Does not drive like a truck that weighs close to 7 lbs!. and corner speed, Off the charts. Now I own one:cool:
Smitty

Your going to be fine with the composite spur gear. Its well made and I havent had a single issue. You need nothing for this truck other than the wheels and tires (Im using my SC10 wheels and tires fine) the air guards, also keeps rocks out, get the Losi performance body pre cut, it fits absolutely perfect.

I let you drive a pack or two through it when Im at comp after Cactus. Trust me when I say you will forget the Losi 2.0 even exists after you get to wheel it on the track!

Are you running the +3mm sc10 wheels or the stockers?

Stock, but I do have one set of +3 I tried. Its not that bad, but they do stick out about a 1/4 inch past body. Stock are perfect.

+1 . I was very surprised myself how much my temps went down in comparison to my properly track geared SC10 4x4 with a lower Kv motor. was about 20 degrees cooler.

I got the metal spur, its nice to have if you plan to try the clutch setup as it is required for that.

As for aluminum hexes, it was more of a piece of mind thing here, after doing the set screw mod on the plastic ones, I didn't see an issue. I am hopeful though they do make a set of alloy hexes similar in thickness to the stock plastic ones, if possible.

For Rims, if you know you are going to go with alum hexes, don't bother with SC10 non-offset wheels at all. Just go with SCTE ones right away. I was hoping to pick up a bunch of these on the cheap since the +3mm rims are basically the standard for the AE trucks, but, with the alloy hexes its definitely wider and I don't think legal from what I recall if that matters at your track.

As for springs, You may find having on hand 1 or 2 selections heavier than stock tekno springs on hand. If you need really high rates, the HB springs will do the trick and are shorter so you can get some nice ride height settings. They also grab the stock spring perches from what I am seeing.

Me personally and others are trying combinations of:

- heavier oil (stock pistons)
- different pistons to have more pack (1.3mm x 8 hole is what I am trying)
- stiffer springs

You may find a benefit to trying the first option. I have heard of guys going as heavy as 40W in the rear (losi oil I believe).

What track and what conditions? It is pretty amazing how the vehicle feels in comparison to both heavy and light style trucks. I was very surprised myself in comparison to my tuned sc10 4x4.

+1 . As a side request for Tekno, anyway we could get an inner body with nice molded driver(s) ... PRETTY PLEASE!

:blush:

What wheel are you using F5 ? How tight are you making the wheel nuts ? I still haven't had any issues with mine and neither have a couple of friends .......

I am running stock SCTE wheels and AVID wheels and my buddy has DE wheels .....I don't torque mine down too hard as the serrated nut holds pretty good .....

Any of you former AE guys able to adjust the Tekno body mounts to match the SC10 2w & 4x4 body mounts? Or are more holes required?

Would prefer to be able to use the same shell without extra holes if possible.

I "thought" the answere was it would mount up as the posts are adjustable, but I would also like confirmation. as this would save me a few bucks.

I'm using the sc104x4 body. Using the tekno front posts, both sets.

I had to drill 2 new holes on mine, did this on the rear. Flowtek body here.

Now hit the order button! You won't regret it! :nod:

I used my SC10 2wd body (HighFlow) for my SCT410. Had to drill 2 new holes in the rear, the SCT410 uses the same mounting holes as SCTE. No big deal to pop 2 new holes in it. The fronts just has to be made larger.

Spun a hex inside a set of DE Borrego wheels. I love those wheels but I think I didn't space the hexes properly and it caught the hub and allowed the hex to spin. Lesson learned. Bought a set of the 5 spoke TLR 22SCT wheels and the stiffer wheel really helped the truck in my opinion.

Anyways, I broke a rear outer hinge pin. It was my fault, nothing about quality. The rear hub seemed to bind up a bunch if you had the nuts tightened down. So I kept playing until it had some free movement. However even though they were still tight, the little bit of movement probably caused the break right at the thread start. Since no local support and wanted to keep racing, i used a losi nitride hinge pin with the c clips and just used some plastic spacers to make up the difference in length. Now I have the hub able to move freely AND the ability to keep running in case anything breaks. No drilling was necessary, slipped right in and fit fine with the spacers on the outside

Lastly, pay attention to your stock shock pistons. I have a set of the kyosho white 8 hole ones and I've been playing around with what worked best. Never mixed/matched them so was gonna try that. Had noticed some weird movement in the shock but thought I just needed to slime the o-rings again and clean it all out. Did that and then went to put in the stock pistons. Noticed on one piston, there were TWO holes that were not completely drilled out to the same size. Then on another piston there was ONE hole that was not completely drilled out. Not a big deal since I have a piston drill kit from Amain, but just something for you guys to pay attention to.