Nothing has changed for the new stock. They should have arrived today. They should be shipping early next week.

I run my sct410 as buggy and think it is really good, if you run 3 or 4s just keep on top of your wheel bearings as they do fail

CVD's Wearing
 

Here is a picture of what I am hoping the issue was and why I was busting the CV pins like crazy. If you look closely the hole on the shaft was really worn and the hole was worn super big and had sharp edges, I think it was shearing the pins when they would turn and slam into the sharp edge. See the pin that is chopped in the pic.http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...vd-wearing.jpg

man, that rear hub on the right doesn't look very good either.

Yep, that'd do it.

I have to agree with you on the way the parts look, I really have to start going through and really take a look at things an make sure p arts aren't super worn, one drawback of it being such a durable truck you start to get way too"this thing is bulletproof" and you put off regular maintenance for too long and end up with stuff looking like the picture. Gotta get better with that.

Hi to all sct410 tekno member i got used sct410 in this forum and new sc hobbies i did not run my tekno yet but now i want to upgrade BCE chassis i like to race twice a week would anyone can share your BCE set up chassis. Thanks kindly appreciated. Have a great week ends to everyone!

Oh yea that will do it with the way the cvd hole like that. When i ran the Losi it would wear like that quick inless you got the Tekno axles . Im willing to bet you got a ton of runs on this truck before that happen .

This is what im starting with:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tekno/s...OCRC201402.pdf

That is the stock set from the original build of the truck and I have had the truck for around 8-9 months, driving at least 4 times a week at the track running at least 4 packs at a time and also racing at least once a week. So yes you could say I have run the truck a whole heck of a lot before the parts started to wear badly, dealing with the issue for the last 2 weeks. I am quite impressed as always

I'm kind of curious to see how bad that body parachutes compared to the rest of the bodies out there. Did you cut any vent holes in the rear or anything? I've been looking at the true-scale proline bodies but afraid of how bad they'd catch air on bigger outdoor tracks with medium to big jumps.

Also, does anyone know if the SUV style bodies are legal for ROAR races? Or aren't they really too picky?

Those look shot like you said, but if you tend to use your parts for longer than normal you can also rotate them (switch sides) to get 'better' wear out of them.

That's a lot of runs - I'm impressed as well!

Selling my Mugen SCT to make some room and haven't driven out to the outdoor track in a long time so time to go.

If anyone's buddy is looking to get a cheap truck to get started with or if you want a truck for friends to run, this is a great candidate. Mack truck tuff and cheap :tire:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13230471

Yeah they looked pretty bad, but I almost never have to get in there for anything so I was the if it aint broke dont fix it guy but I have to make sure and at least take a look every once in a while. Either way I got the new parts in and the issue is now settled and just in time for the races tomorrow.

got some practice today, and am much happier with the truck. I changed a couple of things and it didn't nose dive at all. It was early in the morning so there was no wind, so I will wait to see what it is like when I actually race.
I would like to share my set up sheet, but I can't post it because I get an error code that the file is too big. Anybody know how to compress the file on a Mac so I can post it? Tried to post to Petit but it is not clear how to post there. (I am even less capable with computers than I am at driving)
The biggest changes I made were Using Fioroni pistons, air guards, some vent holes in the body and an EB48 chassis.