Originally Posted by Blitzrockey (Post 11919133)

100 ft straight hw 4k I was gonna use a 17 tooth or would using a 16 be better?

Originally Posted by j.voorhees30 (Post 11918516)

I love this truck so much I was thinking of getting the tekno logo tattooed on me ..... I was close I was already getting ink done and we started talking about racing and he was very convincing

Originally Posted by Killer Bee 1 (Post 11919241)

just got my kit today ! does anyone have any building tips or tricks that the manual might have missed? kit looks awesome can't wait for the snow to melt and off road season to start.

Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 11919658)

What seems to be the popular springs for small indoor?

I've got a lot of rear chassis roll, not sure if I should fight that with springs or swaybar?

Originally Posted by stipres (Post 11915845)

I am pretty sure you are on the right track with using the inner/lowest hole on the tower. I think your issue may be something else. Did you not feel any change? It seems like there are a lot of new people with the truck (congrats on your purchase) that may benefit from a refresher instead of reading through all the pages. Here is a list of what I have found to give the most rear traction out of the truck:

- remove center and rear braces
- lowest anti-squat setting (dot down on the front hinge pin holder for the rear)
- position for rear camber link in the 3 hole on the tower (inner/lower)
- longest rear camber link
- thinnest sway bar available for the rear
- use thicker sway bar up front to tame the steering which keeps the back end from washing out
- 3.5 degrees of rear toe (center dot insert), too much rear toe can do more harm than good
- battery placement to the rear of the battery tray, I modded my tray to get the battery an extra 10mm or so to the rear. IMO, it makes a world of difference. Takes away a little steering, which we can stand to loose, and gets more weight to the rear.
- diff. oils is dependent on traction levels, track lay-out, etc. I am hooked on 7K in the rear of my truck for a medium bite track (SDRC)
- normally run my ride height at 26mm, if I need more rear traction I try 25mm sometimes
- laying down the rear shocks or softer spring tend to help side bite but I think the above adjustments make a bigger difference without adversely affecting jumping, landing, etc...

I am sure I missed an adjustment somewhere but these changes should help...

Originally Posted by boudin4evr (Post 11918165)

anybody using FTW body
wanting to try one
i use JC part # 0222
good body but want to see how FTW works especially for outdoor
man was it kick @$$ windy saturday, I had the air guards and JC Illuzion hi flow
caught hell all day! big double double against wind

Originally Posted by Gene158 (Post 11919268)

I raced this truck for the first time yesterday and its awesome! I am about a full second faster than I was with my losi. Same track, same layout. There were 5 4wd sc mains, over 60 drivers and I made it to the b main with this truck. And that's after a dnf in the first qualifier. I still need to do some tuning because the rear end is too loose but other than that the truck is great! It's an 1/8th scale buggy disguised as a short course truck. Plus, tekno's customer service is top notch. Both my brother and I have gone through several stub axles. I called them Friday and received 5 stub axles in the mail today.

Originally Posted by Killer Bee 1 (Post 11919241)

just got my kit today ! does anyone have any building tips or tricks that the manual might have missed? kit looks awesome can't wait for the snow to melt and off road season to start.