i am running on a med to large track i am running stock spur and a 14t pinion with a hw 4700 kv combo

^^ what he said ^^

RavensNightFury,

I'm not going to say this is absolutely right but what I do when my motors are running too hot:

If I need to drop the temps a lot I start by going down a tooth on the pinion then test again.

If I only need to go down a small amount I'll either turn the throttle EPA down on the radio or lower the current limit small increments and test.

I temp my motors a lot if it's a new motor or vehicle.

I left this hobby for a long time and came back to Lipos and brushless motors so don't take this as fact just one persons opinion.

**I'll add that I run on a medium/large track (I've posted many vids from there) and I run a 14T with a Revtech 4800. I've turned my current limit down to 65 to get it into a range that I'm comfortable with. I know it's hard for people to slow down but sometimes it will lead to faster lap times.

yes. and the mugen pins are a tad longer so they will wear more flush and even on drivecups. instead of being short and making a groove on inside of drivecups. a couple of friends have done this to their eb48's. i even have some of those mugen pins but have not yet repinned any of mine :)

15t pinion, after 8 min and warmup, 125 degrees. NO fan

looking forward to hearing how the REventon pro works out for ya as well as the SP Blaze motor. Any fit issue with the shorter motor shaft?

Congrats man!

I go by the hudy offroad setup guide:

So for me on carpet I raised the link on the tower to avoid traction rolling since it decreased traction into the corner.

Outdoors, go with a lower height on the tower, or at least, that is what I would do with the tekno and what we did with the SC10 4x4 to get it to hook up in the rear as much as possible.

From all appearances yes, same straps.

I've been reading all morning trying to figure out wether to go up or down with the rear camber link mounting location. "The Guide", another well respected set-up guide says the following:

"The rear link I find, is more critical to get right than the front. When trying different rear link locations, and you get it spot on, it feels like the car does everything better. The rear link will mainly determine the amount of traction the car has, and how it slides when cornering.

Lowering the link on the tower, will give the car more steering, as the rear will start sliding more in corners as you turn. It will also square up better when accelerating out of corners. Raising the link on the tower will add traction and reduce steering.

Lowering the complete link gives more traction, but the car seems to maintain more steering, than when lengthening the link.

In general, a long rear link makes the car more stable, have less steering, and be more predictable and easy to drive. A short link gives more steering, and initially the car can feel like it has more traction, but it will lose traction suddenly, instead of a predictable way.

Again, the further in the link is on the tower, the more stable and consistent the car feels, the further out it is, the more non-liner and and inconsistent it feels. The car will roll less and have less overall traction.

A longer link on the hub or tower will give more traction, and less steering, the car will be more stable. A shorter link will give more steering, specially into and mid corner, and the car will square up and accelerate straight better."

I think I'm going to give up and just put two camber links on the truck. One mounted high and the other low.

There's no green slime around here and I'm rebuilding my shocks I have the firoini pistons they are binding up bad , is there anything else that works good to put on the O rings to free them up ?

LOL Ya, those guys are alright too. :lol:

Try a 12 pinion, thats what I ran on a 100' straight and my motor was cool enough to grab on to and not let go after an 8 minute main. No timing and low punch rate.
Paul Rush
HWNA

3x13mm

So far so good here, 1st run kit, Borrego, Cyclones, Hazzards +3, in door carpet hi traction.

Next week out door starts

Anyone who's using the protek 130 have to use a wire extension?

You shouldn't have to

hey tekno, just wanted to let u know that i only have broken that 1 stub axle i told you about a week or so ago. i race3-4 times a week (and HARD!!!) and havent broke any others.....so imho i do think it was just a bad one i had (fingers crossed)....i'll update you if i break another at any point......ps. i DO drive the snot out of this truck and its a BEAST!!!!......ive also been pimping it out with bling and braided wire etc.......something ive never done......thats how much I LOVE THIS TRUCK!!!!! on a side note if you do venture into making baby cars :lol: ie. 2wd buggys and 4wd buggys etc, im sure you wont be making skimpy products with stupid ball cups and weak components that break consistently and never finish races. i HATE baby cars for that reason, of feeling if you look at them wrong they will break......and DON"T get me started on ball diffs!!!:flaming: :lol: anyways, im sure if you do venture into beating up baby cars im sure yours will be the bullies on the playground that are taking their lunch money and sending them home with wedgy's :nod: thx again and keep that pimp hand strong!!! :D