I put an AE DS1015 in mine.

I agree 100%. Im sure mine was had a bad bqtch one. No biggie. Got spares :).......and YES....to everyone thinking about buying this kit, you must!!! I've gotten so much faster and consistent with it.....im just crossing my fingers and hoping i dont break any.in a main :)....that's the worst!!! Lol

Me too ! :nod:

Thank you! I wonder what the difference is between them and the AE ones? (the ae ones are on sale,lol)

Thanks guys for the quick response. I assume you are happy with the performance of these servos. I have a new Savox 1256 I can use.
Reason I asked is a friend of mine just put a High Voltage servo in his. I was wonder if HV is better.

thanks.

For $94 from Servo City the Hitec 7955 servo is hard to beat. The Hitec Titanium line has been the standard bearer in 1/8th scale servos for a long time.

Unless you are running an external BEC or an ESC such as the Mamba Max Pro that can theoretically adjust the voltage, a HV servo does not buy you anything. I say "theoretically" because the BEC on the MMPro is weak enough that it probably can't keep up with high voltages in heavy applications.

BTW, I highly recommend an external Castle BEC in all 4wd SC and 1/8th scale. Solves so many issues.

I did too, it's a great servo, if it works great in my 1/8 it will be great in my sct410 :nod:

I'm almost done with my build, just need to set the speed control to the radio, put the servo horn on & align the height, mount some tires, & get my body back from Thunder Designs. I'm going to run the Toyota flotek proline body & I bought the air control dams, I guess I don't need to vent the body anymore or should I still open up the vents? Please let me know if you have any experiences with these dams, thanks!

Turnbuckles are truly 4mm for the adjustment area correct? I have a 4mm wrench and it is a bit larger and seems to start stripping the turnbuckles.

Build went together well. A couple of little hiccups in the directions (rear brace shows going into the right side rear hole, but the left side lower hole is the only one that would fit based on distance and it can't cross over the driveshaft obviously)

Can't wait to get it out tomorrow for testing

I'm running DE wheels and your aluminum hexes. But I broke 2 stub axles while running proline wheels. As far as the nuts being tight, I crank those suckers down every time so that's not the issue. My brother bought the truck as well and he also broke a stub axle on his first battery pack. He's running your aluminum hexes and proline wheels.
Despite this issue, I would definitely buy this truck again. It's really awesome minus the stub axles lol. That's definitely a problem and the fact that I broke 3 within 4 battery packs is really frustrating. Now I'm driving the truck worrying that the axles will break again. Tekno, I'm hoping you guys can find a solution to this problem ASAP. Aside from that, thanks for making an awesome truck. I will soon be buying the eb48 as well!

Anyone running these carbon fiber towers with good luck?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TeamSR-Tekno...item43b95d3759

Just for the record, I'm running the stock hexes for 3 races with no axle issue.

Six weekends for me, Losi and AKA wheels with drilled out Losi SCTE aluminum hexes and no problems with the axles.

Thanks.

She's really come a long way in just 4 months :eek:

She also races 4WD Mod. buggy with her XB4 and she will soon start racing 2WD Mod. with her Yokomo's as well ;)

I'll post the videos from the finals soon.

Bent