Ok so I just got my BCE chassis in and 2 packs of shims came with it dont understand why but ok. Im reading what you guys are saying about the shims but noone has said why or if they are needed I get that they removed 1mm of material more than stock so did hey recess the diff pockets more or are the shims needed cause they couldn't due to the chassis being thinner? And if the diff pockets are deep enough that you dont need the shims why would they send them with the chassis? any info would be great will be putting the BCE chassis in my truck tonight hope that my chassos protectors come in today cause im not going to have happen to a nice chassis that has happen to the stock one.

From micros4guy...
If you are not running the shims you are actually raising the center of gravity of the chassis. I run them in the front and rear. However, I leave the center one off.

With the spacers the suspension is riding at the same height from the bottom of the chassis as it was stock. Without, you are lifting the bottom of the chassis 1mm higher than stock.
The components that sit on the chassis are also now 1mm lower in relation to the suspension than they are with the stock chassis.
The washer goes under the rear brace that is required. Center brace take it or leave it.
You may want to cut/grind 1mm off the bottom of the lipo tray screws.
If you run the tray in rear configuration, cut the back of the tray off right behind the last air guard thing mounting hole.

Ok so your going to get more suspension travel without them then which is good. So the shims are totally a pref for tuning?

No more or less travel, you are just keeping the suspension pickups at the same location as stock but the top of the chassis and all the components bolted to it are now 1mm lower.

Use the spacers, they are not a tuning option. Omit the center spacer, its not connected to the suspension. The weight of the center diff & motor is now 1mm lower along with everything else bolted to the chassis. That also reduces the angle of the center rear drive shaft.

http://jottingaway.com/wp-content/up...SmileyIdea.jpg

Pinks and 25/20 seems to be working on indoor track. I was going to get a little more runtime with the BCE chassis and then maybe play with fluids and springs a little, but I think it's close. Outdoor season starts in a few weeks, I'm assuming I may have to go up to green springs at least???

fq06 thanks for the info so run the front and rear shims and leave the center out Im already running the angled rear case so angle isnt problem

I would think you would want to go up to green outdoors with bigger jumps, but you will find out once you throw it on the track :tire:


Correct.
There is still a slight angle with the angled gear box that can be zero'd out by leaving the center spacer out... not to mention dropping the weight of the mount, diff and motor 1mm.

Don't forget the small washer between the rear brace and chassis. Front brace doesn't need it.

fq06 thanks again

I didn't put the shims on, I don't think that could add to my nose diving issue? Not with so many other people having the same problem. About to tear truck down to clean and make changes.

Where did u find a chassis protector for the truck?

Hoese your running the front shocks and tower in the rear correct? With the rear shock shaft? Are u running the same spring both front and rear? And what springs and oil are u running? Also can u tell me your droop and sway bars. Do u have your setup posted anywhere? And do u think the truck jumped better after this change? I run a small track with small roll over jumps and think this setup would work nice.

I had the EB48 machined towers and went to the CF, and the CF towers definitely flex a lot more. Wonder if I should of stuck with the machined ones? Figured I would do it to eliminate weight that was high on the chassis?

Here you go wreckya: http://www.s1racing.net/accessory-wr...is-protectors/ Just ordered the universal trim to fit ones.

Thanks man.

wreckya you can also contact these guys https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8529877&type=3