Thought of the same. Would be great to have blank or 1.1 drilled 6x 8x 10x pistons! Especially the 6x blank.

Yeah, I use 2 pairs of pliers to tighten mine down, or I chuck the bit in my drill.

Spot on! Thanks for the feedback. Swapping tires side to side levelled it out almost completely! Enough to illustrate exactly what you said about not measuring using wheels and tires!

Thanks everyone for the thoughts and feedback! Time to get a setup station :)

I got the integy setup station, never useed it till recently to do my eb48 and man was I suprised how much off I was when using the wheels. However, my gauge was right compared to the station when wheels were off and it was sitting on the station.

that said, what hexes do you need to use with the sct410 to do measurements?

I don't know about the Integy adapters but I have a Hudy set up station and use these:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5571-...ct-width-4pcs/
You only need the round bits to fit into the 17mm axle holes on the station uprights.

Spur gears
 

I was bashing around with my son and ran my truck through some mulch. I heard a strange noise but thought that it had debris near the driveshaft but it actually had chips taken out of the spur.

Has that happened to anybody else? Have any of you tried the hardened steel gear?

A friend I race with uses it sometimes and worked just fine. How do you set your mesh? Propably a stone got in there or the motor moved.

I also found a set at Harbor Freight in my area. It has 0.5, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.35, and 3.0mm drill bit sizes. It looks like the ones in between can be bought as wire gauge sized drill bits from Ace.

I've gone through 3 spurs. One had some missing teeth (i'm guessing due to rocks getting in there) one was due to loose mesh (my fault) and the last was kind of odd:

When you install the center diff how much play should their be? seems like I can either have it kind jammed all the way forward, or sit about 2mm back. What happened was I had it jammed forward, but it slipped back after some bad wrecks and the pinion was hitting half the spur and rounded out that side.

However my pinion also broke loose on the shaft (and I make sure it's got loctite and is on securely). Before I had to pull off the track I was upside down in a shallow hole with another buggy stuck on top, both of us spinning tires trying to get a marshal's attention, so I'm thinking maybe all 4 wheels were bound up causing extra strain on the spur.

Anyone using the steel vs. composite notice a difference in acceleration due to the heavier spur? With all the light weight drive line stuff I got in the buggy, seems counter productive to go to a steel spur.

What's the best method for aligning the mesh?

I've gone through a couple as well, but has been 3 causes in my case 1. Running in sand - not good. 2. Motor mount screws coming loose on the slide mount to front of motor 3. Pinion also came loose.
I still like the plastic spur , the metal is very loud. Black composite I have seen the same issues as the natural colored plastic. So for me - I went to 4 screws in the motor mount instead of 2 and then I check the pinion very often. I still run the off white (natural) colored spur

As for gear mesh - I push the motor all the way in so it is tight just barely tighten the screws and back off 1/8 turn. Then I use my Allen wrench as a wedge to slightly push the motor back till there is barely any play (slight backlash ). Rotate the spur all the way around checking that there is a slight play. Tighten the screws and recheck since it can change after out tighten down.

Yea pretty much the same method I use. You can always use the paper strip method as well if you find some paper that is the right thickness to get the mesh you want. Basically you just feed a strip of paper into the mesh then push in the motor in as tight as you can and still be able to run the paper though it. After you've done it enough times you can pretty much eyeball it.

I use pretty much steel spurs now, more so as it was an option to be used with a clutch or long shank pinion setup (those don't work with nylons from what I was told)

anyway, I can't really notice a big difference in acceleration, seems like I get a bit more "free roll" action off power.

Easiest is to put a piece of copy paper or a stickie between pinion and gear. Find the spot which is tightest an go from there.

Looking at a used kit anything to look out for or check?