I have had very good luck with the Hobbywing Xerun 4000 kv.

Should I stick with default settings with the HW sct pro esc(4000kv motor)? The default settings are black colored in the chart-
http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...-09-SCTPRO.pdf

Mainly wondering about timing, neutral range, brake force, ddrs level... etc...

Hey guys, what is the the preference on this board - Standard or Emulsion? Pros and Cons?

My opinion

No reverse for racing just remember
LVC 3.0
No timing to start probably wont need any or not much
Take it off auto detect

I would take it off of autodetect for lipos as well if that is a feature.

I would set it to a more conservative 6.6V to 6.8V cutoff personally, basically 3.3V - 3.4V per cell. this seems to really help keep the lipos happy and if its cutoff is anything like the Speed Passion escs that appear to be based on HW designs I have used, its not a hard cutoff like I see with my vipers at a lower voltage when it dips under load.

Great minds think alike. :) Did those settings except for LVC 3.2v.
I have drag at 0 and "intitial brake" at 0%.

Had my first run with the sct410 today guys. Once I get this dialed in its going to be awesome. Having never really driven a 4x4sct before I was amazed at the power! The only thing holding me back is nose down issue :|

After reading thread looks like I'm going to get 1.3x 8 pistons...
1. Any huge difference between Kyosho and Tekno 1.3x8? (Besides price)
2. Should I get green for rear ?
3. Should I get green or pink for front?
Thanks!

Try punch to 1 first, the HW has monster torque. And gear high 16-18 to get a better powerband feeling.
I would go with the 1.5x6 Tekno pistons as standard.

Hey guys, just got my M2C Racing 17mm hubs for the Losi 22SCT kit. When fitted with DE Racing Borengo wheels they are 295mm at the top of teh tires with -.5° camber and with the Tekno SL 17MM hubs it was 305, so guess it's going to work. Just one ? What pin do you use? 410SCT pin is the right dia. but way short. I figure the EB48 pin but not sure.

Vented. Easier to build than standard and more consistent. Emulsion is affected by temperature changes, where bladder built shock work the same through the run and weather changes.

Almost old news now but nobody noticed Ryan Lutz coming to the Tekno team?
Congrats!

It was metioned on previous page, glad to see him coming to Tekno!

Took my truck out for practice today...put some different tires on rear and WOW. Truck felt dialed except for one small triple...trying to work on my run up so I nose dive over it less. The 2 other jumps on track that it nose dives is controllable and not too bad. I'm going to order springs and pistons soon. But in the meantime I thought maybe I could try a few things.

Besides battery mod...Would running thicker rear oil help at all? At 37.5 f, 30 r Associated. Should I go up to 35 or 37.5 in rear? Also is it bad idea to add dead servo in left rear space behind battery to give more weight in rear? Got a race before my pistons/springs will get here...

That open rear servo spot is a great place to add weight. I'm having a friend machine up some dummy servos out of brass and some heavy aluminum.

Got a part # for the losi 22 SCT M2C Racing adapters?

You could try sealing off two of the holes on the stock pistons, then ream out the rest to 1.3 to make some 8 x 1.3s in a pinch, could do the same too to make some 6 x 1.5s . I know someone who just did the 8 x 1.2s and was about 5W lower than me at the time for 8 x 1.3s and it appeared to work well.

How do I seal off pistons? What oil weight would u run front and rear with 1.2x8 and stock springs?

I have heard you can use hot glue. I wouldn't be surprised you can use some shoe goo in the hole, I would say use a small point (needle, etc) to get it in there to seal it off and wipe off excess, let it cure and it should work.

I would say then go with say 30W front and 25W rear based on the 5W lower suggestion than the 8 x 1.3 s as starting I liked 35W front and 30W rear with 1.3s .