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Originally Posted by biggen
(Post 13102674)
I just know the truck just don't seem to have the rear traction as my scte2.0 did and it don't jump as level as it did
Hum yea but the scte 2.0 is lighter and a 1/10 scale really compared to this truck which is based off a 1/8 scale and heavyer . The Rear traction might have something to do with less weight toward the rear . Jumping wise thats a spring thing/oil/pistons and how you hit the jumps. I know i added 1.3 xray 8 hole pistons on the rear shocks with 30w/Pink springs and 32w Front /1.2 pistons . The nosedive was not real bad still did it at times though . I know when i raced the 1.0 SCTE even with the flex chassis it would nosedive not real bad though . The MIP conversion took out that problem . |
Originally Posted by mytdck1
(Post 13102117)
What's a good starting point for a battery size? Heats are 6 minutes and mains are 8. Any recommended packs under $100 that will work?
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
(Post 13101977)
Hey guys! I finally got my BCE Pro 014 chassis install finished up late last night. It took me a few days to swap it over. Mainly because I completely pulled all 3 diffs apart, thoroughly cleaned them, added new O-rings and gaskets, and fresh oil in them. I also did some minor cleaning on everything. The chassis looks really nice after it's all installed!!! I like the contrast of the black and the aluminum!
I can't wait to get it out on the track and see how she runs now!!! [IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9dukddgp.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...pstvnbs7pq.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnf4ghoo.jpg[/IMG] |
2-shot
You did an excellent job on your kit, it looks awesome! Good luck with it!!!!!! I ordered the same chassis, can't wait to see how that works out for me....
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Originally Posted by jones8352
(Post 13103019)
You did an excellent job on your kit, it looks awesome! Good luck with it!!!!!! I ordered the same chassis, can't wait to see how that works out for me....
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Originally Posted by sickpuppy1
(Post 13102590)
In which case I'd probably get a kit from Avid bearings.
If they make one,lol http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=524&kitname=SCT410 |
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.
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Seen a bunch of discussions about that with the HW bec kicking in too early, try set your lvc at 2.9 or 3.0 volts per cell. It will stop way before that.
Same motor and lipo, I run 15 to 16 tooth. Drag brake hurts not helps the lipo drain but you have enough battery for it for sure... just saying. |
Thanks for the quick reply. I will set the Lvc first... change the pinion second.. and reduce the drag brake third.... 4th if needed is to remove the rear bumper.... 5th is to reduce the motor wires as they are too long..(slightly less efficient but probably not critical)...
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Set it to 3.0 v on cutoff on the HW esc . You can turn it off also do reset it also .
That should Slove it I had the same issue but with a tenshock . |
Originally Posted by biggen
(Post 13102455)
So what are the secrets to getting more traction in the rear of this truck , mine is box stock any help would be appreciated
Try one at a time and have fun! |
Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
(Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.
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I'm placing an A Main order is anyone breaking the captured rod ends? They don't stock Tekno where I race and I drive 2hrs so I don't want to have to come home early over 6 bucks.
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
(Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
(Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.
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