R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   Tekno SCT410 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/676777-tekno-sct410-thread.html)

tc5 man 03-16-2014 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by biggen (Post 13102674)
I just know the truck just don't seem to have the rear traction as my scte2.0 did and it don't jump as level as it did



Hum yea but the scte 2.0 is lighter and a 1/10 scale really compared to this truck which is based off a 1/8 scale and heavyer .

The Rear traction might have something to do with less weight toward the rear . Jumping wise thats a spring thing/oil/pistons and how you hit the jumps. I know i added 1.3 xray 8 hole pistons on the rear shocks with 30w/Pink springs and 32w Front /1.2 pistons . The nosedive was not real bad still did it at times though .

I know when i raced the 1.0 SCTE even with the flex chassis it would nosedive not real bad though . The MIP conversion took out that problem .

purple rides 03-16-2014 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by mytdck1 (Post 13102117)
What's a good starting point for a battery size? Heats are 6 minutes and mains are 8. Any recommended packs under $100 that will work?

SMC 7200 race formula $65. great batteries best I found period. Paid a lot more for crappier batts. These SMC's rock!!! http://smc-racing.net/

FastPete 03-16-2014 07:23 PM


Originally Posted by 2-shot (Post 13101977)
Hey guys! I finally got my BCE Pro 014 chassis install finished up late last night. It took me a few days to swap it over. Mainly because I completely pulled all 3 diffs apart, thoroughly cleaned them, added new O-rings and gaskets, and fresh oil in them. I also did some minor cleaning on everything. The chassis looks really nice after it's all installed!!! I like the contrast of the black and the aluminum!
I can't wait to get it out on the track and see how she runs now!!!

[IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9dukddgp.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...pstvnbs7pq.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnf4ghoo.jpg[/IMG]

Sweet!!

jones8352 03-16-2014 08:19 PM

2-shot
 
You did an excellent job on your kit, it looks awesome! Good luck with it!!!!!! I ordered the same chassis, can't wait to see how that works out for me....

ChuckTee 03-16-2014 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by jones8352 (Post 13103019)
You did an excellent job on your kit, it looks awesome! Good luck with it!!!!!! I ordered the same chassis, can't wait to see how that works out for me....

If you are looking for rear bite this is gonna give it to you for sure. Let us know how it go's

Squirrely 03-16-2014 09:09 PM


Originally Posted by sickpuppy1 (Post 13102590)
In which case I'd probably get a kit from Avid bearings.
If they make one,lol

As a matter of fact they do make a kit

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=524&kitname=SCT410

SouthFloridaApp 03-16-2014 10:42 PM

Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.

fq06 03-16-2014 10:46 PM

Seen a bunch of discussions about that with the HW bec kicking in too early, try set your lvc at 2.9 or 3.0 volts per cell. It will stop way before that.
Same motor and lipo, I run 15 to 16 tooth.
Drag brake hurts not helps the lipo drain but you have enough battery for it for sure... just saying.

SouthFloridaApp 03-16-2014 10:57 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. I will set the Lvc first... change the pinion second.. and reduce the drag brake third.... 4th if needed is to remove the rear bumper.... 5th is to reduce the motor wires as they are too long..(slightly less efficient but probably not critical)...

tc5 man 03-16-2014 11:47 PM

Set it to 3.0 v on cutoff on the HW esc . You can turn it off also do reset it also .

That should Slove it I had the same issue but with a tenshock .

nanoverse 03-17-2014 01:34 AM


Originally Posted by biggen (Post 13102455)
So what are the secrets to getting more traction in the rear of this truck , mine is box stock any help would be appreciated

Good tires and lower punch. Watch out that your not spinning rear wheels. Grey rear springs +1.5 rear hingepin holder with double dot outside. Lower rear inner camber link. Heavier rear diff fluid reduces wheelspin but affects lowspeed turning. Quick way to check if it's wheelspin is to put throttle expo to -30 to get the edge off at launch.
Try one at a time and have fun!

nanoverse 03-17-2014 01:41 AM


Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp (Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.

If you have it otherwise stock then your in trouble. Use 0 timing punch 0-3, pinion 13-15. No drag brake. 4-poles have too much drag already by design. LVC 3.0 or when racing 2.8. Brake EPA at 60 something after calibration.

wreckya 03-17-2014 05:35 AM

I'm placing an A Main order is anyone breaking the captured rod ends? They don't stock Tekno where I race and I drive 2hrs so I don't want to have to come home early over 6 bucks.

snwchris 03-17-2014 06:24 AM


Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp (Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.

I run the 4700 & SCTPro 120A and using 16T pinion and no issues all last summer on large 1/8 tracks. I run the ESC stock settings, other then I turn the Lipo Cutoff "OFF" cause it seems to be set higher then most, even when turned down. Yes I know I shouldn't run it that way, but oh well it has been working fine that way for almost 2yrs.

FastPete 03-17-2014 06:34 AM


Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp (Post 13103354)
Need some advice. I have a stock Tekno SC410 with a Hobbywing SCT combo which includes the 4700KV motor. I am using a 16 tooth pinion and 7200 mah new batteries from SMC. This past Saturday at the races my car stopped after about four minutes. About thirty seconds later is went again. The same thing happened in the main, but more frequently as we race for ten minutes. My battery voltage after the ten minute main (I ran for about 7 minutes) was 7.53 volts. I did not take the voltage after the second qualifier, but it would surely be higher than 7.53 volts due less run time. I temped the motor after the qualifier and the main and it was approx. 120 degrees both times. Should I go down one tooth on the pinion gear to a 15 tooth? Should I get a higher mah amp battery? Should I get a fan for the motor? Is there anything I can do to the esc settings? FYI I have been playing with the ESC drag brake setting.... if memory serves I have it at 40 or 30 with the programming card...Everything else is pretty standard. I was thinking of taking off the rear bumper to save weight. No nose dive issues for me.... Please advise.

Lower the LVC you will be fine. And maybe take some of that DB out.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:01 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.