248LikesXray XB4 thread
01-11-2015, 06:36 AM
#6361
Where is everyone getting the center diffs?
01-11-2015, 08:51 AM
#6363
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I'm trying to figure out what happened with stormer hobbies. They put the diff up on their site and i preordered. Rc america has them and they are selling them. Why hasn't stormer got theirs in and shipped mine seems weird ? I guess i weill have to call Stormer.
01-11-2015, 11:33 AM
#6364
Ran my center diff. With 100,000 yesterday. Like the way it helped tame the rear end down. 8000 front and rear. Think I'll drop the center a little and the rear also. Got mine from RcAmerica. Need to dump my 2013 XB4. ��
01-11-2015, 04:08 PM
#6365
Any recent clay indoor set up I currently have the Tyler vik just wanted to know if he changed anything on it since last reedy race ?
01-11-2015, 06:15 PM
#6366
So I noticed today, when I have both sets of rear hinge pin inserts with #1 in the lower inner positions, with the dogbone pin in the rear outdrive verticle, it severely limits the suspension travel of the arm because the pin is bottoming out in the slot of the outdrive. I mean to the point that the chassis will barely reach the ground, and it's worse on one side than the other. Can some of you guys try this with your cars if you have the inserts this way. Compress the rear suspension fully and rotate the wheel, do you see the arm being forced back down when the pin goes vertical? I moved the inserts to put the holes in the outer positions and it went away almost completely, but that's not the point. Thanks.
01-11-2015, 06:19 PM
#6367
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Love the center diff on my 2015 
Running on a medium/high traction clay track with clay electrons for tires. The car accelerates much smoother without the front or rear getting twitchy like the slipper used to allow it to do. The bonus is that the center diff is also working for you when off power. If you get a little too ham fisted with the throttle, just back off and the car instantly settles down in the front and rear. It is soo much easier to mash the throttle coming on the straight or even through a sharp turn as the front and rear stay under perfect control. Started with 100K in the center and have no plans on changing it. I actually think I had more forward bit with 100K in the center diff than with my slipper set-up.
Running on a medium/high traction clay track with clay electrons for tires. The car accelerates much smoother without the front or rear getting twitchy like the slipper used to allow it to do. The bonus is that the center diff is also working for you when off power. If you get a little too ham fisted with the throttle, just back off and the car instantly settles down in the front and rear. It is soo much easier to mash the throttle coming on the straight or even through a sharp turn as the front and rear stay under perfect control. Started with 100K in the center and have no plans on changing it. I actually think I had more forward bit with 100K in the center diff than with my slipper set-up.
01-11-2015, 09:08 PM
#6369
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys ... got a few kinks with my XB4'14
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
01-11-2015, 10:05 PM
#6370
Hey guys ... got a few kinks with my XB4'14
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
01-11-2015, 10:06 PM
#6371
So I noticed today, when I have both sets of rear hinge pin inserts with #1 in the lower inner positions, with the dogbone pin in the rear outdrive verticle, it severely limits the suspension travel of the arm because the pin is bottoming out in the slot of the outdrive. I mean to the point that the chassis will barely reach the ground, and it's worse on one side than the other. Can some of you guys try this with your cars if you have the inserts this way. Compress the rear suspension fully and rotate the wheel, do you see the arm being forced back down when the pin goes vertical? I moved the inserts to put the holes in the outer positions and it went away almost completely, but that's not the point. Thanks.
Last edited by rcgod; 01-11-2015 at 11:05 PM.
01-11-2015, 11:46 PM
#6372
Somebody suggested I post some pictures to make this more clear, here it is.
In reviewing and typing this, I noticed that the basic clay setup I was going by also specified 2-dot fr/1-dot rear springs, this would make up the difference, as the softer springs would have to be compressed farther down with the collars to achieve the same ride height, and they would thus return fully with the stroke of the shock and maintain tension on the collar.
Notice in the basic clay setup, it says to put the larger spindle bushings "down", this effectively lowers the spindle on the carrier, and as a side effect less preload is required to achieve a desired ride height, which is 18mm according to sheet. The basic instructions lean you more towards assembling it with the bushing in the up position in the left picture but shows both options on the right, so I'm curious if anybody is running it in the down position as I tried to.
The same sheet specifies 1mm downstop shim in front, 0mm in rear. The instructions tell you to screw the shock ends on leaving 1-1.5mm of thread exposed. Now, with all of these things done, you are left with a shock that can extend pretty far, and the geometry of the car in a way that the shock shafts to be slightly more compressed to achieve the same ride height as it would if the bushing was on top.
Now, when backing the collars off enough to achieve that low ride height of 18mm with the stiffer kit springs, they end up pretty close to the top when the car is sitting. Now when the car comes off the ground, the arms drop, the shocks extend fully, (maybe even needing a little assistance from gravity at the end), and by the time the spring fully expands there is still a few mm of out-travel left in the shock. The result was the gap between the top of the spring and the shock collar, and it left the spring floating loosely over the body, with no remaining tension.
If you all built the kit with more than 1mm/0mm downstop(limiting the extension of shaft), or with the larger spindle bushing on the topside of the carrier, with softer springs, or a higher ride height(all requiring more spring/collar preload), it would have given/taken enough to make the difference and the spring would remain slightly compressed under full extension.
The moral of the story I guess is that you cannot build the car to the basic clay setup with the springs that come with it. You either have to get softer springs, or make compromises with downstop, spindle bushings(roll center), or higher ride height. I hope I didn't cause confusion or clutter the thread with this, but I figured somebody else is bound to encounter it and maybe it will help.
In reviewing and typing this, I noticed that the basic clay setup I was going by also specified 2-dot fr/1-dot rear springs, this would make up the difference, as the softer springs would have to be compressed farther down with the collars to achieve the same ride height, and they would thus return fully with the stroke of the shock and maintain tension on the collar.
Notice in the basic clay setup, it says to put the larger spindle bushings "down", this effectively lowers the spindle on the carrier, and as a side effect less preload is required to achieve a desired ride height, which is 18mm according to sheet. The basic instructions lean you more towards assembling it with the bushing in the up position in the left picture but shows both options on the right, so I'm curious if anybody is running it in the down position as I tried to.
The same sheet specifies 1mm downstop shim in front, 0mm in rear. The instructions tell you to screw the shock ends on leaving 1-1.5mm of thread exposed. Now, with all of these things done, you are left with a shock that can extend pretty far, and the geometry of the car in a way that the shock shafts to be slightly more compressed to achieve the same ride height as it would if the bushing was on top.
Now, when backing the collars off enough to achieve that low ride height of 18mm with the stiffer kit springs, they end up pretty close to the top when the car is sitting. Now when the car comes off the ground, the arms drop, the shocks extend fully, (maybe even needing a little assistance from gravity at the end), and by the time the spring fully expands there is still a few mm of out-travel left in the shock. The result was the gap between the top of the spring and the shock collar, and it left the spring floating loosely over the body, with no remaining tension.
If you all built the kit with more than 1mm/0mm downstop(limiting the extension of shaft), or with the larger spindle bushing on the topside of the carrier, with softer springs, or a higher ride height(all requiring more spring/collar preload), it would have given/taken enough to make the difference and the spring would remain slightly compressed under full extension.
The moral of the story I guess is that you cannot build the car to the basic clay setup with the springs that come with it. You either have to get softer springs, or make compromises with downstop, spindle bushings(roll center), or higher ride height. I hope I didn't cause confusion or clutter the thread with this, but I figured somebody else is bound to encounter it and maybe it will help.
You have in your photos in inside hole.
This affects shock lenght and where the collar setting has to be.
01-12-2015, 01:56 AM
#6373
http://www.teamxray.com/xb4/download...et_CLAY_v2.pdf V2 clay sheet (don't know how differs from V1) has shock position in outer hole on a-arm.
You have in your photos in inside hole.
This affects shock length and where the collar setting has to be.
You have in your photos in inside hole.
This affects shock length and where the collar setting has to be.
01-12-2015, 06:30 AM
#6374
Hey guys ... got a few kinks with my XB4'14
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
I've changed the diff bevel gears to steel versions. It's great being able to drive around without having to worry as much about slipper settings or shimming everything to perfection.
But ... here's a couple of things. One of the pins in my CVDs went through the plastic cup that tries to hold everything together. Is this a known problem and should I buy the aluminium ones from Exotek?
Also, front and rear diff carrier bulkheads are a bit loose now, so I can wiggle the diff outdrives around a bit. I think I read something about this - has Xray fixed the plastics for this now?
Love my XB4. It's a different animal from the D413. D413 is brute force, ebuggy style! XB4 has a bit more finesse to driving it.
01-12-2015, 02:36 PM
#6375
****If anybody with a 2015 kit can check the following stuff out on their car, I'd appreciate some feedback about what you find, for your sake and mine*****
The following pics are with the car set up to the basic clay setup that is linked directly from the "downloads" part of the 2015 kit Xray page, with both sets of rear hinge pin braces with 1 deg. inserts in the lower inner positions as shown. I had put one o-ring on each shaft, but they were doing nothing anyway apparently. You can see that I removed both rear springs and spring cups to illustrate this point. With both dogbones completely vertical in the outdrives, the chassis does not even come close to bottoming out because the dogbone pins are bottoming out into the outdrive notches. It is obvious from the pics that it is not just a little bit, it's rather drastic. The right side outdrive actually protrudes a bit farther for some reason, so it stops even shorter. I am built in shorty configuration, so my diff is in the opposite way as a saddle configuration, so I would speculate that saddle may have the issue more on the left side. Regardless of how many o-rings you put on, a chassis that doesn't reach the ground is not good, but fwiw I had about 9mm of shock shaft left from the rod end to the shock body in this pic.
I then tried all the 0 deg/central hole inserts that the manual calls for as initial position, I will post those pics in a minute separately so as not to get them confused, but it just barely allows the chassis to bottom out on the left, while the right is still a hair off the surface. Please guys look into this on your cars, we should certainly be able to get more up travel than this, and with a car that has so much adjust-ability we should certainly be able to use those adjustments.
For a quick test, with your car off the ground, hold a rear wheel and compress the rear suspension fully, now rotate the wheel and see if you see/feel it pushing back down as the dogdone pins go vertical. If your hingepin inserts are in the outer positions you may not notice it as much, but if they're in the center or inner I'm pretty sure you will. I am guessing the issue stems from them making the dogbones long enough to use the widest track adjustments, but I think it backfired and they went too long to use the narrower track adjustments.
The following pics are with the car set up to the basic clay setup that is linked directly from the "downloads" part of the 2015 kit Xray page, with both sets of rear hinge pin braces with 1 deg. inserts in the lower inner positions as shown. I had put one o-ring on each shaft, but they were doing nothing anyway apparently. You can see that I removed both rear springs and spring cups to illustrate this point. With both dogbones completely vertical in the outdrives, the chassis does not even come close to bottoming out because the dogbone pins are bottoming out into the outdrive notches. It is obvious from the pics that it is not just a little bit, it's rather drastic. The right side outdrive actually protrudes a bit farther for some reason, so it stops even shorter. I am built in shorty configuration, so my diff is in the opposite way as a saddle configuration, so I would speculate that saddle may have the issue more on the left side. Regardless of how many o-rings you put on, a chassis that doesn't reach the ground is not good, but fwiw I had about 9mm of shock shaft left from the rod end to the shock body in this pic.
I then tried all the 0 deg/central hole inserts that the manual calls for as initial position, I will post those pics in a minute separately so as not to get them confused, but it just barely allows the chassis to bottom out on the left, while the right is still a hair off the surface. Please guys look into this on your cars, we should certainly be able to get more up travel than this, and with a car that has so much adjust-ability we should certainly be able to use those adjustments.
For a quick test, with your car off the ground, hold a rear wheel and compress the rear suspension fully, now rotate the wheel and see if you see/feel it pushing back down as the dogdone pins go vertical. If your hingepin inserts are in the outer positions you may not notice it as much, but if they're in the center or inner I'm pretty sure you will. I am guessing the issue stems from them making the dogbones long enough to use the widest track adjustments, but I think it backfired and they went too long to use the narrower track adjustments.
Last edited by kevinpratt823; 01-12-2015 at 02:54 PM.