t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

that's incorrect Mr Hudy said that the cars been in development for over 2 years. 2 years you mean to tell me that they haven't tested the car dirt. I've been following this car and I can see with their decision that I'm disappointed.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

Huh, weird breakage the other night. Had a front CVA pin pop through the plastic cover and the car go into 2wd mode. Now sporting orange alu exoteks cva covers all round.

Anyone else had this happen?

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

I've seen it happen. It is a indicator that the joint got dry

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

I would try the Avid pistons and the Avid shock setup it's the best of both worlds.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

I'd read about it enough times on this thread I had my Exotek covers ordered the day after I got the kit! I picked up the steering bridge at the same time.

I also installed Durango CVD dust boots on all CVD joints - so now the pins are well covered, kept clean & well lubricated using Tamiya Anti-Cease grease.

Next up - Avid pistons & maybe some Ralls Racing Shock Towers.

Side note - Hey Avid, please make some machined 2-hole 1.6 & 1.7 pistons like what Martin Bayer used for his Euro Championship win!

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

I was trying out the Bayer's setup for dirt, with 1.6, 1.7mm pistons, 500 400 oil.
Everything is great except for the hard bounce in the rear after a large jump.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Is the chassis bottoming out on landing?

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

I suspect so. Use smaller hole pistons?

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Question:

I was just playing around and swapped out the plastic for the metal gears and to me it just doesn't feel as smooth.


Do you have to run a little lighter diff fluid when you switch over to the NT-1 metal gears? What do you do differently when you build the gear diff with the NT-1 gears. I know you can't use the scale to weigh your diffs anymore. Do you still fill it to just above the sat gears? The NT-1 sat gears look larger than the stock plastic gears, so I'm guessing you would need a different fill line for the metal gears due to the larger diameter? Or maybe my eye site is going and I'm just seeing things. I may just put the plastic gears back in, I haven't had a problem with the stockers.


I don't know maybe it's just my imagination....

The car is great....!!!!

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

i noticed the same thing and went back to the 1.3 - 3hole to compare. a definite lack of pack with the 1.7. So either be sure to downside the jumps very well or try a smaller hole. the 1.7 should be very helpful on a bumpy track with smooth landings though.

jgonz

iTrader: (36)

Just picked my XB4 can anyone suggest some extra spare parts I should order to have....no one local or any of my tracks carry anything for these. Club racer I usually run at least twice a week. Thanks

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

I asked the same question about a month ago if there was an exact way of filling the diff and the best solution I learned is to scrap the scale and eyeball it. just fill above the sat gears. I have the stock plastic up front and the nt-1 in the rear. just make sure you have spare time to let the fluid settle before sealing it up

kaan

Other than the consumables like O-rings and so on, I would recommend the following:
363350 composite upright rear
364960 Gear diff outdrive adapter V2 (one set should be fine)

The stock wing is very fragile, so I recommend you find some 3rd party wing.
I have tried the JConcepts xb4 wing and it is quite good, but I have been told that the LMR Electra wing is even better.
http://l-m-racing.co.uk/products/ind...&product_id=53

I also picked up a screw set from Tony's Screws, but if you don't loose them like me, it should not be needed.

If you are completely paranoid you could maybe add towers and arms for when the Big Crash(TM) happens, but I don't think that should be needed for normal racing.

ImageX

iTrader: (1)

I made a purchase today.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

^^^You'll hate it!!!! but I'll buy it from you for $150.00 shipped? lol


enjoy the new ride