Yea there is soooo many classes as it is, that it's hard to prepare for races because each track has different classes (not a big deal if you only race at one track) But since we don't have a local track anymore, I pretty much have to stock up on lots of different motors/pinions/spurs just to be able to fit into a class! Last race I went down to SLC for, I was refunded my money for SCT because I was running a 10.5 and the only class for SCT's was 17.5 or 13.5 First time I've been to a track where the didn't run a mod/open SCT class....but that's normal for them!

And agreed on the 13.5 in 4wd...I ran one for a while and loved it! Only reason I put the 8.5 back in was because of a massive triple that I couldn't make reliably with the boosted 13.5

No arms are 2mm, But there is a mod where you can shave 2mm off of the inside of the rear arm over the hingepin holes, and then use a 2mm spacer/washer behind the arm on the hingepin to shorten the wheelbase.

yeah, I plan to try the boosted 13.5 and if I like it, I will keep the 8.5 in my box in case they put in a layout where speed is a factor. But the biggest class is 17.5 buggy and they tend to build the track with jumps that 17.5 can clear. There is no "Mod line". Heck, even 17.5 SC can clear every jump. So 8.5 wheeler is just over kill, lol. Plus, we dont have a ton of traction. I tried a 8.5 in my 2wd and I could never put the power down without the rear breaking loose. When I ran indoor the 8.5 was easy to drive, but outdoors on a looser surface, it was too much

I think he's talking about taking 2mm of material off the front of the arm where the inner pin goes through and adding 2mm of shims behind the arm to get a shorter wheel base.

But then that angles the cva different so the jack on the rear end has changed. Didn't want to write it out so I stole from Tekno, they are talking about the front, but its doing the same up force or down force for the rear... angled forward will resist squat.

When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.

Cool, thanks for the info, I may try this out, the car is too locked in at my home track on slicks. I would love to be able to swing the rear end around on braking for tight 180s, right now it just dumps..

Thank you Sir...

Does anyone have a parts list so I can run the Durango gear diffs? Please let me know.

Thanks,

Brad Shearer

Last year i did a test on my local astro track on a club-raceday.
normaly i run 6.5turns there.
But that day it was very wet.
So i decide to run a 17.5 turns with some boost and lot of turbo for not loosing the speed on the straight.
So the motor perform well but with less Watts and kv i was able to drive easyer than the rest of my heat competitors.
It was a lot of fun to step on the gas without loose the car in corners.
i was easely half sec faster with it in that situation.
offcourse insteat of a 20,21 pion i used a 28 for the 17.5 boosted

So LESS Is MORE

finally getting into the class...

So they were calling me and another guy "Team Rubbermaid" because of our rpm arms....Well only team rubbermaid finished the main, so yeah, lol. I ran my wheel with a 13.5 and ended up really liking it for our layout. But i was boosting. I ran 25/81 with 30 deg time on endbell, 35 deg boost and 15 deg turbo at a start rmp of 2000 on my SP GT 2.0 Pro. Motor was 130 and the esc was 125. worked like a champ.

It looks slow!!!

your prolly right, but its just me thats slow, i should have went over my 2wd instead of working on the 4wd all night lol.

Do really think it would've helped? Haha... Jk... Btw, a friend of mine just bought a b44.2 from the classifieds. First car so he will learn as he goes.

wondering if somebody can help me on this issue.

the pin that goes in the slipper drive cup keeps on getting stuck. it seems it gets bent inside to where the pin can't be pushed out anymore out of the slipper drive cup. this has happened to me twice already. i'm running the stock slipper assembly (no avid triad). i know those slipper cups get worn out, but the pin getting stuck all of the time can't be normal. is my assembly wrong? if it's correct, are there any ways to decrease the risk of this occurring?

thanks

can anyone tell me the benefits to running an Avid slipper clutch? Thinkin bout gettin one