JAE

iTrader: (30)

Stock, but I may drive this on a a loose, outdoor low grip track, so looking for max traction. If the 15 has less traction than the 16 6.6 im orobably not interested, as that's the point in getting a stand up . Thx!!

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I've had good success with 3 gear stand up on loose surfaces. I'd reccomended picking up the 6.6 parts if you don't already have them. 15 car is lighter than the 6.6 mainly because of the chassis.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Any need for the brass rf hanger with the motor back that far and the 6.6 chassis? Thx!

jcsfearless

So I finished my build on my RB6.6 and this thing is awesome!! My only issue is that the sensor cable I have is WAY too short so my ESC is sitting on top of the battery strap currently lol. On a side note..anyone know if castle makes a motor rebuild kit? I just figured out (while installing the motor in to my RB6) that the bearings seized up inside it....

jcsfearless

Has anyone ever run any kind of non turn motor? I'm new to motors and don't understand kv vs turn motors. All I have right now is my Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor that I have in my RB6 right now...my buddy told me it is too much motor for it. My castle 3800 just took a dump on me so I'm running the pro4 for now. I'm also running 23/76 gearing.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

That motoe is for 4x4 short course trucks. You may destroy your gearbox, outdrives, and diff with that. Go to the track, figure out what the fast guys are running there. Pick the class you want to run and get tips on the motor accordingly. If you're not running stock you don't need and expensiVe motor. If stock pick up a reedy if you want to spend $90. If you want a fast stock motor go for a $130'fantom. Don't buy anything until you see what class they are running at the track and which one you want to run


=jcsfearless;14734381]Has anyone ever run any kind of non turn motor? I'm new to motors and don't understand kv vs turn motors. All I have right now is my Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor that I have in my RB6 right now...my buddy told me it is too much motor for it. My castle 3800 just took a dump on me so I'm running the pro4 for now. I'm also running 23/76 gearing.[/QUOTE]

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Brass is unneeded. Just adds extra weight and isn't helping with traction as much as you'd think. So 6.6 3 gear box and rear bulkhead on the 15 car is money!

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Thanks! Somethings up with this new chassis and its flex points as some have noted. One of my buddies stated he is running the 6.6 laydown with hole shots and not converting to a standup for an upcoming reedy outdoor race on a track that runs hole shots. Said it had better traction with the laydown than his brothers rb6 standup...btw - any value in aluminum hubs? Anyone know how much added weight that is? Buggy is a little porky

njc11

The 6.6 laydown with shocks on the front as per kit has massive amounts of traction.

So much so it's the layout of choice on medium to low grip for me..

Check out petit as I have just posted my most recent set up on there which was on a rubberised indoor running track type floor.

jcsfearless

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Thanks JAE, I'd actually already been told the Pro4 was too much for my buggy but used it to drive around for a little. I wont be able to head to the track until the beginning of next month anyway and by that time I should have my Tekin Gen3 17.5t for stock class. I was just not sure what exactly could happen to my buggy if I ran that motor. Now I know so thank you for the info

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Thanks JAE, I'd actually already been told the Pro4 was too much for my buggy but used it to drive around for a little. I wont be able to head to the track until the beginning of next month anyway and by that time I should have my Tekin Gen3 17.5t for stock class. I was just not sure what exactly could happen to my buggy if I ran that motor. Now I know so thank you for the info [/QUOTE]

I made much worse mistakes staring out with the wrong equipment. At least you've got one of the best buggies on the market. Good luck and have fun

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Quite a few guys went back to 4 gear stand up for low traction situations. I have seen the laydown trans move decently well on medium grip, I'm not sure about it in a low grip holeshot type situation though, but then again not long ago rear motor was the thing outdoor and almost no one uses it now.

I think the aluminum rear hubs are a good investment. Gives extra positions for placement and are more sturdy, the added weight is negligible.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

The aluminum hubs are essential to this car unless you never crash. Seen too many either have ball studs rip out, or just shatter. Do yourself a big favor and pony up the cash for them. You will be a much happy camper in the end. If running mod in a 3-4 gear standup situation, I would also suggest the velvet coated small idle gear as well, to keep from blowing out the black updated one.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

I'll pony up some dough for some aluminum hubs. My only other experience with plastic stockers were with my xb2 which never had any issues. How does this buggy drive in standup form btw. Does it also have more steering than it's dirt competitors (b6d, xb2 de, yz2 de, Losi 22)?? Thx all!

QUOTE=jpcopeland1;14735843]The aluminum hubs are essential to this car unless you never crash. Seen too many either have ball studs rip out, or just shatter. Do yourself a big favor and pony up the cash for them. You will be a much happy camper in the end. If running mod in a 3-4 gear standup situation, I would also suggest the velvet coated small idle gear as well, to keep from blowing out the black updated one.[/QUOTE]

JAE

iTrader: (30)

I've got 1.6 2 hole front pistons. For the rear, on hand, I've got either 1.6 2 hole or 1.4 3 hole. Running med to high bite clay in stock. Which rears do every one recommend? Thx

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